Braided mono fluorocarbon?

[cobrapowersys]

I was wondering what you GW folks are using for line on your rods...specifically for trolling... I am using mono on my inside and outrigger lines and am getting alot of stretch... I am thinking about switching to braided line for trolling rods here in the north east... Do you guys use backer or such? What is yourserups? Appreciate the feedback...

 

[johnnyboy]

Hey there, Im actually thinking about setting up a trolling rod now as well but am pretty new to it, would love to hear your feedback as well as others. Some people by me use wire, obviously cause of the currents we have here. Im in the lower bay section of NYC, and the tides RIP! :bang

 

[Grog]

I'd go with braid with a mono top-shot as long as the people fishing know what they're doing. They can get a nasty cut and a braid birds-nest is a disaster.

 

[bc282]

Hollow core braid/spectra (I like JB, izor, cortlands new stuff) to mono topshot threaded, nubbed and nail knotted.

start with different top shot lengths and experiment on what you like.
Depending on speed trolled, species intended, gear utilized, drag setting, etc, etc., will Determine topshot length. I prefer shorter than most, But for starters, I'd run 75 feet and 150 feet topshots and see what you like or dislike. Beyond 200 feet mono topshots it'll feel too stretchy like all mono IMO.

If you run jets or plastic headed skirt lures that skip on the surface, a little stretch is good for the action.

 

[cobrapowersys]

So it seems like the census is braided with mono top shot. I will give it a try... Also I know what a nail knot is, but I never heard the term "nubbed".

 

[bc282]

i can't remember what the connection is coined, but its known for 3 nail knots of which the middle one is the "nub".
step 1: thread mono into hollowcore 3-5 feet (best to use proper hollow threading needle of proper size), poke mono thru side wall to remove needle and blunt cut mono and re-insert into spectra (mono is usually angle cut to create very skinny end so you can use a skinner needle)
step 2: pull back spectra at the end about a couple inches, install a nail knot on to the mono -- this is the "nub" (i use 30# spectra material for nub and nail knots)
step 3: push spectra back over the mono and nub and install another nail knot at the end of the spectra and just past the end to cover the "fray" and stop any further fray
step 4: install final nail knot a quarter to half inch above the nub.

the top nail knot should be the anchor which really is the minimum you need to keep things in place as the hollowcore/mono is 100% with the grip of the hollow spectra on the mono. the nub is insurance and works well for jiggers. It shows and stops the anchor nail knot for any slip. On trolling applications you should see very little to no slip, but jiggers will see some slip from allowing the line to slack repeatedly, but with 3+ feet threaded, it is not an issue.

The threaded nub connection makes for a very slick connection which has as close to zero effect thru the guides. It slides clean and silent thru rollers with no worry about hangups due to fat knots or connections.

A little practice and it can be done relatively quickly (less than 5 minutes) and field doable if you've brought your stuff onboard.
not as quick to change as loop to loop top shots but for trolling, i don't see the need to be changing top shots that frequently.
a few times i've needed to change the top shot at unopportune times, but that's what back-up rigs are for.

PS. i use this connection on all my hollowcore spectra (which is now virtually all my spectra) from 60# hollow to 130#.