Buff and Wax?

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gradywhite248

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Help,
I have bought a Shurhold buffer and Used the 3M imperial compound. May be I'm doing something wrong I just cant seam to get that gloss shine? Any help or tips would be great. Gelcoat is really not that bad. just cant seam to get that Consitance shine
 
All compounds are abrasive and depending on which one you used, it may be more abrasive than you thought. Often the container will tell you how abrasive it is by using words like 'for heavily oxidized finishes' etc.
Polishes are also abrasive but to a lesser extent. Waxes are usually not abrasive although Cleaner/Waxes may be. Also make sure you follow the instructions for application and removal of compounds and waxes. Some need to be wiped off before fully dry and other after drying and hazing.
I find that it is best to apply remove the wax or polish with a machine but remove it by hand.
If your compound was a bit abrasive, you will need to apply a finer compound or a polish to get the gloss finish for waxing.
The usualy safer approach is to start with the mildest cleaner wax and see if it does the job. If not, move up to a more abrasive compound and even up to fine sandpaper for really bad oxidation. Be careful, it is easy to remove the gel coat
 
seasick said:
All compounds are abrasive and depending on which one you used, it may be more abrasive than you thought. Often the container will tell you how abrasive it is by using words like 'for heavily oxidized finishes' etc.
Polishes are also abrasive but to a lesser extent. Waxes are usually not abrasive although Cleaner/Waxes may be. Also make sure you follow the instructions for application and removal of compounds and waxes. Some need to be wiped off before fully dry and other after drying and hazing.
I find that it is best to apply remove the wax or polish with a machine but remove it by hand.
If your compound was a bit abrasive, you will need to apply a finer compound or a polish to get the gloss finish for waxing.
The usualy safer approach is to start with the mildest cleaner wax and see if it does the job. If not, move up to a more abrasive compound and even up to fine sandpaper for really bad oxidation. Be careful, it is easy to remove the gel coat
Click to expand...

Thanks that sounds like a plan. I used the 3M Imperial Compound & Finishing Material? with the Shrhold wool pad. not sure of the compound? should I next go with the 3m cleaner an wax or the 3m restorer an wax? I used the MEGUIARS marine wax. I beleve you are correct. any recommendation on the next step manufature product to use? Thanks for the help. Im kind of a detail nut and this is driving me crazy..............
 
Well, along with what was said above, it's possible that the gelcoat was/is oxidized further than you thought. If your current compound isn't aggressive enough, then you started off one step too "fine" and may need to first use a more aggressive compound. You'll have to make that call as it's kinda hard for us to judge through a forum... :mrgreen:

However, since you're currently using a 3M product, they make a "finishing compound" called Finesse It II that works very well to get that final "shine". Remember, wax only protects the surface - it isn't (shouldn't) to be relied on to make the surface shiny. The shininess is all in the prep work of the gelcoat.

Oxidation is the degradation of the gelcoat by the sun. It starts to make peaks and valleys. To get rid of it, you have to sand away the peaks till the surface is completely flat. Think of it like the difference between what the water looks like on a windy day as opposed to first thing in the morning with no wind -- "like glass". Because of this sanding process, this is also the reason that the least aggressive compound should be used, and then keep up on the waxing so you don't have to do more sanding. Gelcoat is VERY thin - continual heavy compounding every year will wear it away.
 
I agree with Dennis that something is missing here. Your hull may be oxidized more than you thought. Does the hull look white? If so, you are probably heavily oxidized. The process I used to restore my hull to that Grady cream color (off white or whatever it is) was to first wet sand with 800 grit. After that, I went to the 3m imperial compound. Make sure you spray some water from a mister bottle as you work the compound in. Then polish it off with a clean rag. As you move along, make sure you clean your wool pad by brushing it with a new scrubber brush. Once you are done with the compound, then you move to the 3m finesse it II and do that whole process again. Once that is done,then you move on to waxing the hull. If you do it this way, the hull will look new and like glass. It took me several weekends of working on it to do my 192 Tournament. We'll worth it. But as Dennis said, it is impossible to tell the shape of your hull by a description on the forum. Perhaps someone can look at it for you and advise if wet sanding is needed. Another option is to do a test spot back on your transom. Wet sand, compound, Finnesse II, then wax. Bet you will be grinning from ear to ear when you see the results. By the way,I too have the Shurehold buffer. It works great. When you compound, start on low speed, say number 2 or 3 and work it in. Then kick it to the higher speed and finish it off. Then polish it clean with a rag. Good luck!
 
Some polishes are abrasive should be used for their intended purpose. But, for years, there have been products out there (for example Starbrite Marine Polish with PTEF, Yacht Brite Pro Polish and Meguiar's High Gloss Polish) that are to be used AFTER oxidation has been removed to achieve a high gloss shine. They are protectors and sealers and shine like nothing else, IMPO. It is all about preference. There are board members who will probably never use anything other that wax, more likely than not Collinite, That's fine. I switched to polish years ago and will never wax again. My 2 cents.
 
journeyman said:
Some polishes are abrasive should be used for their intended purpose. But, for years, there have been products out there (for example Starbrite Marine Polish with PTEF, Yacht Brite Pro Polish and Meguiar's High Gloss Polish) that are to be used AFTER oxidation has been removed to achieve a high gloss shine. They are protectors and sealers and shine like nothing else, IMPO. It is all about preference. There are board members who will probably never use anything other that wax, more likely than not Collinite, That's fine. I switched to polish years ago and will never wax again. My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Yup,
I use Gary's Cleaner/Wax, and have been for years. My hull is in pretty decent shape and only needs occasional spot treatment(polishing with a finessing cream or Collonite fiberglass cleaner)) before the cleaner wax. Unlike a lot of posters here, I had absolutely terrible results using Starbrite with PTFE. I don't know what the issue was but after a few attempts to get a nice shine, I gave up, cleaned it off with acetone and went back to Garry's.
 
Well tried 3m finesse it II. Still not good from an angle? Oh well new tape and decals. Now to do the bright work. Using Collinite 850. Any tips on how long to leave on or how to buff off my aluminum is not in that bad shape no pity
 

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FinesseIt is the final step - to be used AFTER the hull already looks pretty good. You've got to get the hull looking pretty good first, then use the FinesseIt.

I've never used Collinite's metal polish, but my experience with metal polishes is to just to keep rubbing till you get the shine you want then buff the residue off - there's never been any "leave it on" timeframe. But again, I've never used Collinite's stuff. What do the directions say?
 
Agree with Dennis on this one. The hull should already look like glass when you get to the step of applying FinessIt. Something is wrong with your process. I used your identical buffer and wool pad, so that can't be the issue.
 
Yep. Ill give it another go this weekend. I think I'm the issue. My wife even told me you are not buying and more wax.............
HAHA.
 
Lightly oxidized hull

Washed, rinsed and dried
One round of Buff Magic with a wool pad on a Porter-Cable Random Orbit Polisher
Remaining residue removed by hand buffing with lots of old socks
One coat of Starbrite Marine Polish with PTEF using a foam pad applicator on the Porter-Cable
Any remaining haze buffed out with a Shurhold micro-fiber Brite Bonnet on the Porter-Cable

Boat renamed "Sea Glass". Graphics done by New England Lettering in Danvers, Mass. (yes, we performed the ceremony!! :lol: )
 

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Not only does the sea look like Glass, your hull does too. :) Very nice looking Grady! With an impressive shine.
 
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