buying 1st boat - advice sought (208 adventure)

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boslaw

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I'm hoping to buy my first boat next week. On Sunday, I'm lined up to see approx 10 used 208's, all between 1993-1998 vintage. I'll get a full survey and sea test on whichever one I buy.

Any advice on what I should use to differentiate them all? Any particular years that were better/worse than others? Which features/options should I value more highly than others? I'll be using this mostly for fishing and cruising with the family in Gloucester, MA harbor (I have 3 kids under 6 yrs old).

Most of the boats I'm going to see have Johnson, Evinrude or Yamaha motors, 175-222HP. Most of the motors are same year as the boat (1993-1998). I'm looking in these ranges because of price (trying to keep my budget around $20k or less).

I'm really hoping to get a trailer with any boat I buy - not sure I'll be able to get a slip or mooring this year. Most of what I'm looking at comes with a trailer, but a few don't.

I'm going to rely on my surveyor to find the biggest problems but I don't want to get a survey done on more than one boat, so I'm trying to figure out how to zero in on one or two of the best of the bunch. I figure the comparison will be difficult for me since they're all the same model, so other than general appearance, I'm a bit lost as to what I should be looking for.

Thanks.
 
boslaw

My best advice is to purchase the newest GW you can afford assuming it passes the survey and your approval.

A surveyor is a good move. A big advantage of a surveyor is the moisture meter test over the entire hull AND transom. You want no moisture in the hull or transom. Surveyors tend to have standard boiler plate report formats so be sure to ask for the items you want checked. For example, ask the surveyor to run water in the cockpit to check for water seepage through the caulking around the removeable floor panels. Open the garboard drain plug to see if water runs out while conducting the test. Leaks in the caulking are not a show stopper but a pain to dig out the old caulking and add new caulk. Count on the electronics being shot or so out of date that they need to be replaced. The trim motors are subject to electrolysis so ask the surveyor to stick his head under the engine when raised and check the trim motor. Hoses and wiring should checked and may need replacement. Gas tanks can be an issue so have them checked as well. An engine mechanic definitely show check out the engine.

Skim the posts on this web site and you'll see a whole host of other possible items for you and your surveyor to check.

Good luck.
 
For boats in that age range I would only go for the Yamaha power and not the Johnson or Evenrude. OMC the owner of Johnson and Evenrude during this time frame was in total turmoil and ultimately went bankrupt in Dec. of 2000. The best thing I can tell you is that if you see the word FICHT on an engine RUN as FAST as you can and don't look back. These OMC engines were an absolute nightmare and I am being nice.

The rest you are doing correctly. FYI, chances are if you are buying a GW on the north shore it came from Baert Marine in Middletown, Find out if the boat was serviced at Baert and if so call Clyde at Beart and ask him if he knows the boat. He is a very good guy and very knowledgeable.

As for slip space on the north shore there is plenty to be had even Cape Ann Marina has space from what I have heard and that never happens. If you are new to boating and have kids my suggestions is to play on the Ipswich Bay side, lots of very nice beaches and generally calmer then on the Gloucester Harbor side. And one last word of advice if you are new to boating, stay away from the Anasquam River cut bridge on a Saturday when the tide is running, not a place for a first timer. If you find yourself there I assure you that you will not forget the experience.

If you want the read on local marinas PM me and I will tell you what ever I know.
 
1st boat

The first thing i would suggest is to make sure you get a seaV2 hull (I believe started in 93 for the 20'). I agree that you should stay w/ Yami power. I had a '92 225 Johnnie and blew a rod because the TDC was off in one of the cylinders.
Also watch the surveyor as he works and don't be afraid to ask questions.
His most important tool is either a light hammer or a screwdriver and a piece of chaulk that he taps the hull with and hopefully doesn't make any circles! He's looking for dead, soft or wet spots, poor repairs etc.
When you are looking at the boat, check the non-obvious spots to look.
The deck is clean but look at the drip trays in the livewell and fishboxes and the underside of the hatches. Look up under the gunwales for mold.
Look under the helm for neat somewhat organized wires (no birds nests!)
Open inspection ports and look at fuel connections, grounds, hose clamps,
bilge pumps.
Prepare yourself, have questions for your surveyor. Don't just rely on the surveyors report. You are paying good money for the survey, your money's worth!
GREAT LUCK and hope to see you OTW!
 
thanks. That's great advice about the Yammy's vs. Johnson/Evinrude. The whole thing is a bit overwhelming. I'm barely just learning the terminology now, so it's tough to follow some of the posts on the boards.
 
I owned a 97 208 in Florida which I recently sold. I had a Yamaha 200 Saltwater Series II. I agree that u should look at the latest year you can afford. With a family, assuming everything is equal it would be nice if it had a macerator or at least a pump out. If it has a bimini open it up to see if it is moldy or has mildew and there are no tears. Look at the hour meter to determine use. Ask the owner for maintenace records. Make sure all electrical and mechanical sytems are operational....ie bailwell, gauges, lights etc. I am sure the surveyor will check all of this but make sure. I owned my 208 for 7 yrs. Good luck with your new Grady!!! If you have any questions pls let me know.
 
put an offer in today - now just wait and see what happens

I'll hopefully hear if my offer was accepted tomorrow and then I can get my surveyor lined up, etc. Can't wait! Now the expenses begin (surveyor, slip, etc.) :D
 
Adventure 208

Nce boat, love mine, a lot of boat for 20'.

All advice above is good, my 1994 has some transom moisture, your surveyer will pick that up. I also agree that the Yammie engine is best, mine is a saltwater series 175, plenty of power. Do key in on the 1993 and later hull which is the CV2. Better riding hull, almost all agree.

Given the cost of a replacement engine, make sure you get a surveyer that is familiar with pitfalls of Yammies of that vintage. Check to see if the motor has been on ring-free, has had new thermostats, impeller, water pump and correct compression, at the very least.

Nice options to check for are live well, freshwater wash down, full eisenglass closure for helm, pulpit, trim tabs.

Be picky but also keep in mind nice ones go fairly fast as they are a very desirable boat. :lol:
 
offer was accepted - now I'm lining up my surveyor. Hopefully all works out. Then I've got to trailer from Maine to Mass (never trailered anything before, so that's another first for me). I'm nervous about the whole thing but I'm sure I'll be fine once I get everything going. I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, so the weight should not be a problem.
 
boslaw said:
offer was accepted...
>snip
I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, so the weight should not be a problem.
Click to expand...

A 208 is going to run just shy of 5000 on a trailer, seems you'll be pretty maxed out on the 'yota. Make sure the trailer wheel bearings have been inspected and the brakes work, and that there's a spare tire.

I would put a trans-cooler on that thing, and change out the ATF to synthetic, diff too. I use Amsoil but any competing product is fine so long as it's synthetic - Mobile1, Royal Purple, Redline, Castrol, etc. Those are the two components you'll burn up towing a load with a light truck. Here's a forum/thread on towing with one. One of the guys has a Grady 22 he tows with one, so it's do-able. What no one knows is whether the trans or diff is going to burn up down the road:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/t ... d-stories/

Anyway, congrats on the new boat!
 
thanks, that was a great thread about towing with Tundras/Sequoias. Some of what you're saying is over my head - I know very little about cars, and even less about trailers.

ATF = trans fluid?
trans-cooler?
 
boslaw said:
thanks, that was a great thread about towing with Tundras/Sequoias. Some of what you're saying is over my head - I know very little about cars, and even less about trailers.

ATF = trans fluid?
trans-cooler?
Click to expand...

No problem...we have answers here!!

ATF = automatic transmission fluid - highly suggested to have your transmission serviced (change filter and fluid) and replacing with synthetic is highly recommended if you're going to tow with it. It's likely to get hot, and for every 10deg over about 240 reduces the fluid life dramitcally and if left unchanged will cause premature wear and early failure. Synthetic is much more stable and even if overheated will continue to protect your transmissions moving parts. Torque converters and bands don't do will when overhearted and will cease to function properly, causing slipping, and the trans the just eats itself.

Diff = rear differential. On a half-ton truck these really take a beating when towing a load. A friend had a GMC 1500 and bought a toy-hauler, about 9K lbs. It was right at its towing limit, towed okay, but the first trip he noticed it smelled hot when he got home, looked underneath and noticed it had burned all of the paint off the rear axle. He went out the follwing week and traded it for a duramax diesel.
Diff service is generally neglected by most truck owners, but it's a real good idea to change it out to a synthetic, use a 90/140wt gear oil if you're going to be hiway towing a trailer. The bearings and gears are quite small compared to a 3/4 ton truck, and they cannot handle the load from all the extra weight the rig is pulling.

An automatic transmission cooler is highly suggested if you're going to be pulling at or near the max tow-rating of the truck (sequoia = truck...tongue-in-cheek) as the factory does not provide sufficient cooling capacity for the automatic transmission. At least have it checked to see if there is one on it, otherwise have one installed when you have the trans serviced. A trans temp guage is highly suggested, but we may be getting in way over your head here.

For short distances, to a launch and such, the 'yota may suffice. If you're going to be doing any over-the-road stuff, passes or long grades, etc,. you'll want something more heavy duty for towing. Or wait 'till something blows, fix it, then trade :shock:

The little grady on a trailer is a like a lead balloon. They are heavier than you think. I pull with a duramax which is pretty much way overkill, but it's surprising how much it labors if it's really hot out, or when it's pulling a grade, though it will pretty much do it at any speed. And you feel it back there although there's never an issue with the heavy duty chassis. My point is, guys use the lighter rigs for towing, and they generally can handle it if they're setup right and not pushed too hard, but failures are common as is the desire for something more heavy duty.

You didn't say what kind of trailer you were getting. A lot of the east-coast boats have nice aluminum trailers to go with them, I have a Roadking that's pretty nice, and they are light. A galvanized trailer will generally run 3-500lbs more than a comparable aluminum. But have the bearings checked out before a long haul, check for worn or weather-cracked tires, and make sure the surge brakes are working properly, you'll REALLY need them with the toyota towing.

Sorry for being long winded, but we really don't want you broken down out there on the hiway with your boat behind. It can ruin a perfectly good weekend trip!
 
Thanks, I appreciate all the info.

The trailer is a 1997 venture double axle trailer. I don't know if it has brakes on it (looked like it on quick inspection, but I don't really know - I'll know more when I go back for the survey)

I'll probably be making one long trip home from Maine, and after that it will be short trips to the landing until I can find slip or mooring space around Gloucester (everyone has waiting lists).
 
trailering

WELL LUBED BEARING BUDDIES!!! ESP. FOR O.T.R.
All the power in the world won't pull seized bearings!
 
thanks. Will I be able to find a bearing buddies size to match that old trailer?
 
bearings

Short answer is yes. Ask the dealer for some assistance and your concern about the long haul w/ a trailer that sat all winter. There is a good chance the trailer already has bearing buddies on it, just make sure they are lubed (with a grease gun).
 
[/quote](never trailered anything before, so that's another first for me). I'm nervous about the whole thing but I'm sure I'll be fine once I get everything going.

I know your going to love that boat. It' very versatile and seaworthy. I had my 208 for 8 years. Lots of public launches to choose from if you end up staying on wheels. We even towed ours to Sebago several times a summer -- lot of fun.

You've been given lots of very good advice here but I read you are also new to towing. Just a few helpers to keep in mind.

*Keep your speed down! There's a lot of weight behind you! Don't feel you need to keep up when everybody else is doing 75 +

*Before each trip, check lights, tire pressure etc. Have a routine and stick to it.

*After each trip, rinse your trailer as well as the boat. Saltwater does a number on trailers and it is often neglected.

*Secure all your gear. Bow cushions tend to fly off sometimes and you may never see it happen.

*If you have a Bimini, secure that as well. That's not made for highway speeds.

*Practice backing your rig in an empty parking lot and get comfotable handling it. Believe it or not, I let my wife do most of this duty and she's very good.

*Take your time at the ramp and don't be nervous. Better slow and safe than... well you'll see all sorts at the public ramps!


Gloucester is a boater's playground. Lots to see and do. Good luck and I know you'll have fun!
 
Thanks all for the great tips and encouragement. I'm sure all will be fine - just excited and nervous about buying something that's 11 years old.
 
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