Hello all. I'm new to this forum. I've put a deposit on the 2005 Gulfstream with twin 2012 Yamaha 150s. The survey is this week. Anyone have this model / year who has thoughts on specific things I should focus on would be greatly appreciated.
Buying a 2005 Gulfstream
- Thread starter brucesea32
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Hi, I don't really want to say anything negative as I have a 2002 Gulfstream but your GW boat is fantastic but your weak link is the older Yamaha's. You asked so this is my humble honest opinion.
If your boat has been in saltwater then corrosion to some degree has occurred to the engines. Example: the VST on its inside will show corrosion with minute white flecks breaking off that then will possibly get into the injectors interrupting the flow of fuel to that cylinder possibly causing that cylinder to run lean and hot. Corrosion is a TIME problem and 12 year old engines that have been in salt water I will equivalent it to an auto engine that has 150k miles as you don't know what may break next but you know it is due. I know as my 12 year old Yamaha 250hp with 500 hours had this problem and many more due to corrosion.
Please be aware that to replace both engines and accessories that it may cost $50-60K for new ones.
Of course the response will be it was maintained well, but look at all the 12 year old cars in the rust belt that are rusted out but they were maintained well.
You can reduce the rate of corrosion but you can't stop it.
If your boat has been in saltwater then corrosion to some degree has occurred to the engines. Example: the VST on its inside will show corrosion with minute white flecks breaking off that then will possibly get into the injectors interrupting the flow of fuel to that cylinder possibly causing that cylinder to run lean and hot. Corrosion is a TIME problem and 12 year old engines that have been in salt water I will equivalent it to an auto engine that has 150k miles as you don't know what may break next but you know it is due. I know as my 12 year old Yamaha 250hp with 500 hours had this problem and many more due to corrosion.
Please be aware that to replace both engines and accessories that it may cost $50-60K for new ones.
Of course the response will be it was maintained well, but look at all the 12 year old cars in the rust belt that are rusted out but they were maintained well.
You can reduce the rate of corrosion but you can't stop it.
Yup - it's a crap shoot on 12-year-old motors. All you can do is have an adequate survey done and hope for the best. On the positive side, I spoke with my friend who is a newly retired Yamaha mechanic and he said he's seen these engines run 2000, 3000 hours. The engines currently have 600 hours.
Don’t know where you are located but there is a 2006 232 at Comstock in Brick NJ. Twin 150’s @ 750 hours. Comstock is a GW dealer and the listed price is $49k, who knows what the actual sales price will be. Looks in nice condition and well outfitted as a comp to the rig you are considering.
Good luck with your survey. If the rest of the boat is really clean that’s a sign that the mechanicals were more likely looked after. Just like a car I would not buy a boat without an inspection and service records. If factory authorized service was done there should be documentation. If owner self-serviced, can he provide records for purchasing oil, lube, fuel filters, spark plugs, water pump, etc. Pull the engine cover, spotless under the hood? No corrosion on battery cables? All the hoses have good integrity? No slapstick wiring jobs? There are lots of little clues all over the place.
Good luck with your survey. If the rest of the boat is really clean that’s a sign that the mechanicals were more likely looked after. Just like a car I would not buy a boat without an inspection and service records. If factory authorized service was done there should be documentation. If owner self-serviced, can he provide records for purchasing oil, lube, fuel filters, spark plugs, water pump, etc. Pull the engine cover, spotless under the hood? No corrosion on battery cables? All the hoses have good integrity? No slapstick wiring jobs? There are lots of little clues all over the place.
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I recently bought a 99 232 Gulfstream with a 250 Yamaha OX66. I downsized from a 25' Grady Sailfish w 2 200 hp OX66's. My only disappointment is the 250 hp struggles to stay on plane under 4000rpm! My 25' had no problem staying on plane at 3500rpm. With twin 150's I doubt you'd have that problem but I'd be sure to sea trial it & make sure it will cruise at your desired cruise speed!-
Question for the group. I looked at a boat today and the surveyor mentioned moisture in the cockpit floor although it was not flexing or soft. It's a 19-year-old grady gulf stream. Is this to be expected in an older boat or should I run away? The transom seemed good but the boat rides low in the water at the stern. Has a bracket with twin 150 Yamaha 4 cycles. I think they traditionally run low but I'm hoping the bracket isn't leaking and taking on water. Having it checked.
LongIslandGulfstream
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Cockpit floor moisture is expected and common due to the way Grady manufactured the decking. Had it on my 98. Simple fix by pulling up the deck and redoing with something better like coosa board. Dont run for that reason!
LongIslandGulfstream
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I had the same exact setup and switching to a 4 blade powertech OFS4 15.25x15 did wonders!
What does sitting low mean to you?
Are the lower units out of the water completely when the motors are raised? Are the deck scuppers throughhulls above the water line or are they submerged?
When your surveyor checked the moisture in the deck, was the moisture at the transom and hull checked also. If so was the boat on land and if so, how long was it since it was hauled out?
Moisture in the deck may not be a major issue but where in the deck is important to know. You may expect higher moisture readings near the edges and seams of a deck lid for example or at the outside perimeter of locker lids.
If there is excessive moisture in the middle of a large lid like the tank deck lid but is not spongy , that might be more of an issue down the road
600 hours is not unrealistic if the motors were properly maintained. Older motor start to have things wear out due to age and not so much hours of use. In reality, too little usage can be worse than more hours.
Are the lower units out of the water completely when the motors are raised? Are the deck scuppers throughhulls above the water line or are they submerged?
When your surveyor checked the moisture in the deck, was the moisture at the transom and hull checked also. If so was the boat on land and if so, how long was it since it was hauled out?
Moisture in the deck may not be a major issue but where in the deck is important to know. You may expect higher moisture readings near the edges and seams of a deck lid for example or at the outside perimeter of locker lids.
If there is excessive moisture in the middle of a large lid like the tank deck lid but is not spongy , that might be more of an issue down the road
600 hours is not unrealistic if the motors were properly maintained. Older motor start to have things wear out due to age and not so much hours of use. In reality, too little usage can be worse than more hours.
Mustang65fbk
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A few things to note here... I don't think the outboards are going to be an issue as they are 2012's and are newer than the years that were affected by the dry exhaust corrosion issues. The 232 Gulfstream is a pretty big, heavy boat and when loaded down with twin outboards I'm sure it'll sit pretty low in the stern. In regard to the moisture readings, were they elevated slightly or were they off the charts? If the boat has been an outside boat and especially with it still essentially being winter/early spring in most of the country... could that affect the moisture levels and give them a higher than normal reading? If the hull and stern of the boat look good and there isn't any flexing or bending on the floorboards, I would still be potentially interested in the boat, especially if the price is fair or better than fair. I'd ask some of these questions to the surveyor, see what they think about it and if there is any potential concern.
Mustang65fbk
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Fishtales
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Always get a survey. I'd then do all maintenance on the motors unless I had work orders in hand that show the work was done (ncluding internal/external zincs, plugs, wires, t-stats, fuel pumps, engine oil, lower unit oiletc). Then follow the standard recommended maintenance protocol going forward.
Thanks for the reply! Fortunately I was able to buy a used Solas 4 blade 15" & it's working great!