Buying a Grady White 222 Fisherman

[SeanF]

Hi all:

I am new to this forum but hope to contribute in the future!

I am in the process of buying a 2000 Grady White 222 Fisherman with a 2008 Yamaha 250. The motor has approx. 1,000 hours which makes me a little nervous but it has been consistently yard maintained and serviced for the past 8 years by the same yard that is selling it. I will get an diagnostics read-out and I have asked for a compression check before I accept it.

(I have a Mako with a 1993 Mercury Magnum 150, so I am not afraid of old engines)

Question for the forum:

What should I be on the lookout for with respect to the hull? Obviously a soft transom, but what else?

I'm pretty sure GW's of that vintage have plywood cored transoms and I think the stringers and frames were also plywood. Is that correct?

Are these boats susceptible to other structural failures?

Any comments or advice about these boats (or the motor). would be greatly appreciated.

Sean

 

[NHAngler]

I would certainly get an independent survey if you are unsure of what to look for. Major systems may include transom, stringers, fuel tank, outboard, and wiring. Hull damage under bottom paint may also be harder to spot and I passed on a nice boat that had covered up major damage that was not properly repaired.

Plywood? Yes, but I think you are into the Greenwood with that model year. Still can get wet but is not supposed to rot (according to GW).

I would seek a status on if that F250 has ever been scoped and had the exhaust jacket replaced or any other major repairs. 1000 hours would not scare me but would want to know more history given that the possible corrosion issue is such a major expense.

Good luck!

 

[luckydude]

I'd want to know if it lived on a trailer or at a slip in the salt. The former would make me a lot happier.

 

[drbatts]

Have the boat surveyed. The hull is approaching 25 years old. At that age you are at the expected life span of things like fuel tanks, fuel lines and hoses including scupper hoses. As far as the engine goes 1000hrs if maintained is nothing for these engines. If service records are available and normal maintenance items i.e. water pumps, thermostats ,VSTs, timing belt have been done recently great. If not Then I would plan on doing them and starting from scratch on them, then follow recommended maintenance intervals going ahead. The killer of these engines is corrosion. Both in the midsections and around the thermostats. If the midsections haven't been replaced, then plan on replacing them, I wouldn't rely on scoping alone.

 

[Cape Escape 209]

Definitely make sure timing belt has been replaced. I believe Yamaha calls for it at 1000 hours so make sure that is done prior to purchase. If that goes you’re in a world of hurt...
Good luck!

 

[SeanF]

I'd want to know if it lived on a trailer or at a slip in the salt. The former would make me a lot happier.

Thanks for the reply. It's lived its life in a slip in salt water. That said, what would make you unhappy about that? Granted a boat that spent its entire life inside a heated garage would be in perfect condition but that's not what boats are for.

Thanks again.

 

[SeanF]

Definitely make sure timing belt has been replaced. I believe Yamaha calls for it at 1000 hours so make sure that is done prior to purchase. If that goes you’re in a world of hurt...
Good luck!

Great point!

 

[SeanF]

I would certainly get an independent survey if you are unsure of what to look for. Major systems may include transom, stringers, fuel tank, outboard, and wiring. Hull damage under bottom paint may also be harder to spot and I passed on a nice boat that had covered up major damage that was not properly repaired.

Plywood? Yes, but I think you are into the Greenwood with that model year. Still can get wet but is not supposed to rot (according to GW).

I would seek a status on if that F250 has ever been scoped and had the exhaust jacket replaced or any other major repairs. 1000 hours would not scare me but would want to know more history given that the possible corrosion issue is such a major expense.

Good luck!

Great... good info Thank you.
I know the framing members (stringers etc) are cored... Is the hull shell itself solid fiberglass?

Thanks again

 

[SeanF]

Have the boat surveyed. The hull is approaching 25 years old. At that age you are at the expected life span of things like fuel tanks, fuel lines and hoses including scupper hoses. As far as the engine goes 1000hrs if maintained is nothing for these engines. If service records are available and normal maintenance items i.e. water pumps, thermostats ,VSTs, timing belt have been done recently great. If not Then I would plan on doing them and starting from scratch on them, then follow recommended maintenance intervals going ahead. The killer of these engines is corrosion. Both in the midsections and around the thermostats. If the midsections haven't been replaced, then plan on replacing them, I wouldn't rely on scoping alone.

Thanks... great info, especially regarding the corrosion issues on the engine

 

[luckydude]

Thanks for the reply. It's lived its life in a slip in salt water. That said, what would make you unhappy about that? Granted a boat that spent its entire life inside a heated garage would be in perfect condition but that's not what boats are for.

Thanks again.

Salt is hard on metal. All I was trying to say is 16 years of sitting in the salt is not going to do nice things to the engine, even if the engine is not in the water, it's right next to it. Yamaha makes a good engine but there is only so much they can do.

Best of luck, wasn't trying to rain on your parade, just passing along my thoughts.

 

[Gulffisher]

Assuming you can't afford or don't want a new boat, if you like the boat and it is priced right so you can repair all the issues a 25 year old boat and outboard will likely have and still be considerably under cost of new, go for it.

 

[SeanF]

So, back to this thread... The 2000 GW 222 Fisherman did pretty poorly in the survey. Most noticeable: the transom came up very wet... pegged the moisture meter on almost the entire surface. Lots of penetrations that were unsealed.

I am now looking at a 2009 GW 222 Fisherman. Does anyone know when Grady White stopped using wood in the transome of the 222?

Thanks

 

[Fishtales]

Hi all:

I am new to this forum but hope to contribute in the future!

I am in the process of buying a 2000 Grady White 222 Fisherman with a 2008 Yamaha 250. The motor has approx. 1,000 hours which makes me a little nervous but it has been consistently yard maintained and serviced for the past 8 years by the same yard that is selling it. I will get an diagnostics read-out and I have asked for a compression check before I accept it.

(I have a Mako with a 1993 Mercury Magnum 150, so I am not afraid of old engines)

Question for the forum:

What should I be on the lookout for with respect to the hull? Obviously a soft transom, but what else?

- Soft coring, obvious signs of neglect (terribly faded gelcoat, spider cracks, hull imperfections, trained eye looks at the hull to ensure no major damage or worse - cover up, electrical corrosion on wiring under dash and behind breaker and batt switch box. Engine bolts - clean and caulk visible, no brown stains. Smooth steering, engine and boat maintenance receipts. How was she stored (indoors, outdoors, covered, shrinkwrapped, nothing? Cushon conditioning, weathered, cracked, snaps and loops where they mount all sewn tight and ready for use?
- Get some things thrown in that cost him nothing and you something - first aid kit, PFDs, anchor and rode, safety/flare kit, paddle, boat hook, gaff etc. Especially if he is getting out of boating... Should be able to pick up cheap. Fishing equipment he'd like to part with. Verify everything works as it should. Take someone with you to counterbalance your excitement.

I'm pretty sure GW's of that vintage have plywood cored transoms and I think the stringers and frames were also plywood. Is that correct? yep but if the boat was cared for, should be ok.

Are these boats susceptible to other structural failures? check the bang plate area well, is it caulked and clean - indicator that at a minimum it was looked after.

Any comments or advice about these boats (or the motor). would be greatly appreciated. Solid boat and motor combo if taken care of. Good luck.

Sean