Cabin Doors

My bulkheads are still OK shape but will need attention soon. Use Woody Wax to try and keep them presentable.

I did try getting some white vinyl sheet material from a signmaker - the same stuff they use for boat names to cover the wood. Looked OK from a distance but it was difficult to apply and get the bubbles out. So it ended up taking it off.

Maybe get one of these graphics guys to come up with some wrap like they use on tournament boats and stuff.
 
For durability you need a formica type layer. White and off white are easy to find on the shelf, wood grain not so easy these days.

Real teak looks great, but demands attention when outdoors.
Those days are over for me, prefer zero maintenance type stuff or near to it.

Just glue it in, use router to trim edges.

I made up some silica thickend epoxy to bond it.
If using new plywoodas base, double or tripple coat edges to seal them, just wait 15 minutes between coats of resin, use slow hardener and small chip brush, pour out pot in paint pan to keep from gelling up while waiting.

It will never rot if sealed this way.
 
I am also replacing the doors and bulkhead area. I was wondering is there a trick to getting the long carpeted box off of the inside of the starboard side ? I ran out of sunlight and this has gotten me stumped. Its pro sompthing so easy...does it pry off or screw off i looked everywhare for a screw but am stumped..
thanks jim b.
 
Screw heads are probably buried in the carpet. Look close along where the box meets the bulkhead and along the outside cabin wall.
 
On my old seafarer the doors were teak. The cockpit side of the cabin wall was that fake stuff. Got real dull and looked horrible. I rubbed in the oil portion of two part teak refinishing system. It actually worked pretty good and lasted for a couple years.
 
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