Cabin leaks, stations

[xyloeye]

Has anyone experienced leaks into the cabin via the stantion mounting flanges? The screws appear to have nuts underneath and are inaccessible from inside the cabin. It looks to me as if the deck would have to be removed to be able to tighten them. Am I wrong?

 

[30marlin]

I was just checking my 300 Marlin today for that. There is a slight trickle coming into my V-berth storage bin. The trail of water is inline with a hand rail mounting station. There is also a rub rail seam in the same location. I had a drain snake camera up under the cabin liner in that are. It is impossible to see the mounting nuts. I can follow the trickle up so far and that is it. I know they have mounting nuts on the forward stations above the anchor locker. If they used them further back, I believe there is no way at getting to them.

I also found they did a poor job at sealing up the hatch cover under the windless.
they also cut into the gutter channel which always water to over flow into the the rope locker. This will be my next job to get sealed up. I want to keep the bilge as dry as possible. I am also going to put in drains to allow the cup holders to drain onto the deck as well.

Good luck.

 

[saltypup]

I'm having a very laborious time chasing a water leak also. Here's what I've come up with so far. Water is in forward bilge area which makes sense because that is the lowest part of the boat. I've identified the water entering from stern side of lower berth. (drain tube/bulkhead between lower berth and fuel tank). That's as far as I can chase it. Water seems to be freshwater and is worse after rain and wash. It seems to take a while to work its way down there though which is making it difficult to find. It's not like you can just wash an area and say "oh, it's coming from there." Sometimes it takes a day to rear its ugly head. I'm getting obsessed.

All obvious areas have been delt with
1. Cup holders drained to deck.
2. Deck plates recaulked and new o-rings.
2A. Deck covers recaulked
3. Freshwater hose fittings all checked(pump does not cycle).
4. Water heater
5. Cabin windows
6. Windlass area(some water will always get in here during washing and rain)
7. Drawers on step to cockpit from walkaround
8. Tackle box drawers and box itself.
9. Scuppers
10. Searched history on GG for other areas

Next attack will be rub rail. There are three possibilities here:

1. Cap to hull seam
2. Rivets and srews for cap to hull
3. Screws for rub rail to hull.
So far it seams that cap to hull screws and rivets have sealant and cap to hull seam is well sealed but it seams that there is no sealant in the screws that attach the rub rail to hull.(remove round insert in rub rail to see these). I think the water may settle at that low point on the rub rail at about the point where gunnel settles with the cockpit and gets in through the rub rail screws

Bow rail after that if needed. The bow rail does have bolts in areas that are NOT accessable. According to Grady, you would have to cut a hole and put a deck plate or if your able to get the bolts out then you could use some toggles for new bolts.

Any more ideas would be appreciated

Chris

 

[xyloeye]

Thanks for the replies. Guess I'm not the only one with unfixable leaks. I got one of the stantion flanges to quit by caulking around the base and filling in the screw heads. Crummy fix, but it works for a while. As far as deck plates, it would take several on each side, I think. Then, the plates would probably start leaking! This is pretty shoddy engineering for a high end boat.