Thank you for helping with my bilge pump....Now on to my next electrical puzzle piece, the cabin lights. We have a 2005 282 Sailfish. The interior cabin lights (head, mid-berth, over galley and on starboard bulkhead). Don't turn on. The bulbs look fine. I replaced one to check. No luck. I also checked the fuse at the fuse box. Its 10amp. Looked good as well but replaced it just to check. Still no lights. What's my next step ?
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Cabin Lights Don't Work
- Thread starter HBSteve
- Start date
DennisG01
GreatGrady Captain
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I don't know how your boat is setup, but it sounds like there might be a master switch somewhere for those lights. If not, start by checking for power leaving the fuse. That will at least start to narrow down the possibilities. An inexpensive DVM or even just a simple test light are a cheap invesentment ($5) yet can be an invaluable tool.
fishbust
Well-Known Member
Steve, if your fuse/breaker is good, as you found, 10 amp at accessory fuse block, then you likely (my best guess-timate) have an open wire/bad connection.
It could be the 12 volt hot wire or the ground wire. Either will break the circuit.
The cabin lights are likely all daisy chained together, so I would start with checking the cabin light connections closest to fuse block first and work my way out, which means at fuse block first. You have power to block because other things work, you say your fuse is good, so start with the actual light connections on block. + at fuse and also the ground wire connections on block. If they are looking funky, may as well clean them all after shutting off your house power, save future gremlins.
The cabin light wiring is supposed to be blue/green. That would usually mean blue with a green stripe.
It could be the 12 volt hot wire or the ground wire. Either will break the circuit.
The cabin lights are likely all daisy chained together, so I would start with checking the cabin light connections closest to fuse block first and work my way out, which means at fuse block first. You have power to block because other things work, you say your fuse is good, so start with the actual light connections on block. + at fuse and also the ground wire connections on block. If they are looking funky, may as well clean them all after shutting off your house power, save future gremlins.
The cabin light wiring is supposed to be blue/green. That would usually mean blue with a green stripe.
The wire coming from the fuse box is hot. However, by the time it makes it to the midberth (under the helm station and down the starboard side), it's cold. I ran a 16 gauge wire directly from the fuse box to the midberth light and of course it lit up. None of the other cabin lights worked though. I just can't imagine that something in that 3 foot section of wire has a disconnect. It's wrapped up in a bundle that looks good to go and everything else in the cabin works fine. I'm at a loss right now.
fishbust
Well-Known Member
Good going Steve! You found the open circuit. My thought is that it seems the berth is not the first stop, since the other lights did not work running your temporary wire. They all failed together, so they should return together when you find the culprit.
Could it go to the head first? Starboard cabin light? Over galley? The lucky contestant will probably light all of them.
It is good that you are doing this electrically. You won't always be able to find (see) where the wire is bad, just electrically in between two points. A wire can be chafed in places you will never see. When you electrically find where the break is, if you cannot see it, you may have to run a new wire permanently, eliminating the original.
Running your temporary power wire and the light then working did prove that you have a good ground. So the open circuit is on the positive side. This all helps to narrow it down.
One other thought...if the berth IS the first stop directly from the fuse box, the break must be there in that run. There could be a hidden splice in the bundle where wires branch off to the other lights.
Could it go to the head first? Starboard cabin light? Over galley? The lucky contestant will probably light all of them.
It is good that you are doing this electrically. You won't always be able to find (see) where the wire is bad, just electrically in between two points. A wire can be chafed in places you will never see. When you electrically find where the break is, if you cannot see it, you may have to run a new wire permanently, eliminating the original.
Running your temporary power wire and the light then working did prove that you have a good ground. So the open circuit is on the positive side. This all helps to narrow it down.
One other thought...if the berth IS the first stop directly from the fuse box, the break must be there in that run. There could be a hidden splice in the bundle where wires branch off to the other lights.
I'll run the direct wire to from the fuse to the the head light tomorrow and see what happens. The head light is undoubtedly the next light in the string.
The wiring diagram shows the bundle running counter clockwise around the front of the boat beginning at the fuse box. I removed a panel on the starboard side of the midberth and found the blue/green wire running down from the helm station to the connection with the midberth light wires. They then returned upward where I assume they re-joined the bundle before heading off towards the head. The splice off seems to be a good possibility but what would that tell me?
The wiring diagram shows the bundle running counter clockwise around the front of the boat beginning at the fuse box. I removed a panel on the starboard side of the midberth and found the blue/green wire running down from the helm station to the connection with the midberth light wires. They then returned upward where I assume they re-joined the bundle before heading off towards the head. The splice off seems to be a good possibility but what would that tell me?
fishbust
Well-Known Member
The splice is a joint that could corrode and/or break off, sometimes hidden under that self fusing tape.
I only use crimp connectors with built in heat shrink & built in adhesive. When I make a repair it never has to be done again.
I only use crimp connectors with built in heat shrink & built in adhesive. When I make a repair it never has to be done again.
DennisG01
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Cool - at least you were able to eliminate anything on the other side of the fuse. It looks like you're on the right track and I would agree that a connection (splice) is the likely culprit. It's not that a wire can't chafe or break, it's just more common for a crimp to have been made too hastily or possibly the wire being bent too tightly as it exits the crimp and eventually breaks. Sometimes you can get lucky and, with power on, start squeezing/twisting the wire bundle and splice areas until the lights turn on.
I was working the bundle between the fuse box and the head light. I was pulling the blue/green out of the bundle to generate some slack so I could run the test. My wife yelled "Hey the lights just came on !" Apparently I was tugging just past the midberth light splice point and it re-connected. We called that a victory and buttoned everything back up. Hopefully it'll last but at least I know the exact point to go if they go dark again. Thanks for everything. You saved me a bundle and I learned a lot.....Now onto the next project !
DennisG01
GreatGrady Captain
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Great! You found the problem area. But.... if it was me, I would fix it now. The wires inside the bundle are pretty well "captured" and unlikely to cause a problem. However, there is a chance that with the pounding and vibration that a boat goes through, it could not only turn out the lights on you again, but possibly short something else out that has a wire inside that bundle. And, of course, you and I know this won't happen when you're in the slip... It'll happen when you're miles away from nowhere. Do yourself a favor and fix it now. It will, a the very least, save you from hearing your wife say "you should of fixed it the first time".
fishbust
Well-Known Member
I would fix that splice right. It will fail again and it will be on the wrong day, then you will be kicking yourself.
Get yourself a heat gun, stripper, ratchet style crimper and a collection of butt splices and ring terminals. All with heat shrink/adhesive built in. Red, blue and yellow connectors. You will be using this stuff from time to time. Do it right, do it once.
"Genuinedealz" is a good source for electrical supplies for boats. Quality products and very reasonable prices.
You won't regret it, Steve.
Get yourself a heat gun, stripper, ratchet style crimper and a collection of butt splices and ring terminals. All with heat shrink/adhesive built in. Red, blue and yellow connectors. You will be using this stuff from time to time. Do it right, do it once.
"Genuinedealz" is a good source for electrical supplies for boats. Quality products and very reasonable prices.
You won't regret it, Steve.
Duly Noted...It was good to have them working but I know there's no such thing as magic. I have a plan just need the time to do it. It'll be the first thing I tackle after I install the new macerator pump and holding tank sensor that arrive this week.
fishbust
Well-Known Member
I just had to change my tank float switch also. Pricey float switch!
You are changing your in tank macerator too?
I am planning to do as most others do when it becomes problematic. Replace it with an external pump and diverter valve.
I can see why the manufacturer's use the drop in kit, convenient, but soaking in saltwater it just isn't going to last for the long haul.
Mine makes some crazy noises sometimes but hoping it lasts another year.
You are changing your in tank macerator too?
I am planning to do as most others do when it becomes problematic. Replace it with an external pump and diverter valve.
I can see why the manufacturer's use the drop in kit, convenient, but soaking in saltwater it just isn't going to last for the long haul.
Mine makes some crazy noises sometimes but hoping it lasts another year.
The pump didn't work so I dropped $460 for another one. We drained and cleaned the tank to find the bottom float on the sensor was broken off. I guess that was the 1/4 full float. I would have been fine with just the 3/4 full warning but we ran water through and both the quarter and three quarter lights went on when completely full and completely empty. Called Groco and they said the sensor was "compromised" due to the broken float. $175 more for a new sensor. Hopefully they both arrive tomorrow and I'll install them Thursday. It's a lot of cash but I had to remove the air conditioner unit to get good access to the holding tank. I don't want to do that again. An external macerator is a better design but that means tank modifications and some rebuilding. It was much easier to just drop in new components. I know it will fit well and I'm sure it will work.......hopefully for at least another 9 years !
We go through at least two drain/rinse cycles at the pump station before pulling into the slip. A dirty holding tank would drive my wife crazy. Hopefully the fresh water rinses will prolong the macerator life..........