I need to change a water pump on a 2002 Yamaha F225 TXRA. I am a new boat owner with decent mechanical skills and am wondering whether this is a job I should try to tackle myself or if I should turn it over to the professionals. Any idea what the job should cost?
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Changing Water Pump on F225
- Thread starter Gulfstream G
- Start date
Double Eagle
Well-Known Member
Water Pump
If you can turn a wrench you may as well learn to do this job. First thing is to get a shop manual. Also make double sure that you have all of the bolts out before trying to seperate the lower unit!!
If you can turn a wrench you may as well learn to do this job. First thing is to get a shop manual. Also make double sure that you have all of the bolts out before trying to seperate the lower unit!!
Strikezone
GreatGrady Captain
Re: Water Pump
The tricky one is under the rubber cap and holds the zinc anode. I agree that anyone with moderate mechanical skills can do this project.
Double Eagle said:If you can turn a wrench you may as well learn to do this job. First thing is to get a shop manual. Also make double sure that you have all of the bolts out before trying to seperate the lower unit!!
The tricky one is under the rubber cap and holds the zinc anode. I agree that anyone with moderate mechanical skills can do this project.
David Olson
Active Member
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago on a 2005 F-225 txrd. Go to this link and click on F-225 maintenance. There are pictures of all sorts of F-225 maintenance procedures.
http://www.bogueinletnc.com/phpBB3/view ... f=24&t=676
I printed the procedures for the water pump replacement and made them into a book that I could take outside with me.
Good Luck. Remember there are nine (9) bolts that have to be removed.
http://www.bogueinletnc.com/phpBB3/view ... f=24&t=676
I printed the procedures for the water pump replacement and made them into a book that I could take outside with me.
Good Luck. Remember there are nine (9) bolts that have to be removed.
There are pretty good postings on this and other forums about the replacement process. Parts are usually under 100 bucks, a little more for the stainless housing option.
The job is not too difficult but replacing the woodruff key can be a chore. I just did my pump and the job not counting the key was about 20 minutes. Removing the key took another 30 minutes and I have to thank a poster who gave the advice to use a dremel abrasive wheel. I cut a lengthwise slot in the key and whacked it from the sides to compress it. I don't know if it was the compression, the heat from grinding or the vibration, but regardless, I was able to hammer out the key. I also got the idea of using a tie wrap around the impeller vanes. I put it around the vanes, towards the bottom and slowly bent the vanes in the correct direction ( CC) as I tightened the tie wrap. Keep bending and tightening until the vanes fit the housing. Slide the housing over the vanes ( grease the inside first) and wiggle the vanes a needed. When you get the housing down to the tie wrap, cut the wrap and finish slipping the housing on. This was a lot easier than trying to squeeze the vanes all by hand.
The job is not too difficult but replacing the woodruff key can be a chore. I just did my pump and the job not counting the key was about 20 minutes. Removing the key took another 30 minutes and I have to thank a poster who gave the advice to use a dremel abrasive wheel. I cut a lengthwise slot in the key and whacked it from the sides to compress it. I don't know if it was the compression, the heat from grinding or the vibration, but regardless, I was able to hammer out the key. I also got the idea of using a tie wrap around the impeller vanes. I put it around the vanes, towards the bottom and slowly bent the vanes in the correct direction ( CC) as I tightened the tie wrap. Keep bending and tightening until the vanes fit the housing. Slide the housing over the vanes ( grease the inside first) and wiggle the vanes a needed. When you get the housing down to the tie wrap, cut the wrap and finish slipping the housing on. This was a lot easier than trying to squeeze the vanes all by hand.
hotajax
GreatGrady Captain
Water Pump Guidance
First, get yourself a Service Manual so you can see pics of stuff after you take everything off. Next, call Andy at the website below to tell him what you want to do. And, go through that step-by-step tutorial on Andy's website that one of the other Grady guys on this site just mentioned.
Cost - $110.00 or so for ALL the parts, including the housing. Genuine Yami Manuals are abut $75. Andy knows what to send you, you won't have to re-use any old parts. Get some anti-seize compound for the water pump bolts, and some good real sticky marine grease. Need 10, 12, & 14 mm sockets, and some 6" extensions for your ratchet. After you're done, have a couple of cold ones and know you just saved yourself a shi*-load of money, and didn't have to tie your boat up for weeks waiting for the mechanic to get to it. I did mine after two years and in all honesty, I'm glad I did. I probably could have gotten 3 years out of it, but the blades in the impeller were worn about half-way. If you have any more questions, put 'em up, I'll be glad to help. Here's the reference to Andy's website:
www.shipyardisland.com
First, get yourself a Service Manual so you can see pics of stuff after you take everything off. Next, call Andy at the website below to tell him what you want to do. And, go through that step-by-step tutorial on Andy's website that one of the other Grady guys on this site just mentioned.
Cost - $110.00 or so for ALL the parts, including the housing. Genuine Yami Manuals are abut $75. Andy knows what to send you, you won't have to re-use any old parts. Get some anti-seize compound for the water pump bolts, and some good real sticky marine grease. Need 10, 12, & 14 mm sockets, and some 6" extensions for your ratchet. After you're done, have a couple of cold ones and know you just saved yourself a shi*-load of money, and didn't have to tie your boat up for weeks waiting for the mechanic to get to it. I did mine after two years and in all honesty, I'm glad I did. I probably could have gotten 3 years out of it, but the blades in the impeller were worn about half-way. If you have any more questions, put 'em up, I'll be glad to help. Here's the reference to Andy's website:
www.shipyardisland.com
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
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Andy has a sticky on his site for the F200 with photos from a poster I believe is called HOTSPOT.
Suggest to get his Delux kit since all parts but the outer nylon housing is new, it doesn't wear out and not likely to be broken.
You can keep the wear plate and impeller cup for reuse next time, to save a buck, presuming minimal wear and undamaged. The outer nylon housing costs a few bucks so don't back your car over it.
You won't know what any of this is below until encountered, just keep it with the SIM HOTSPOT F200 instructions, you will when the time comes.
I did this for the HPDIs, similar for Fs.
------------------------------------------------
Getting the stainless retainer ring off the shaft nylon bushing was a waste of time, the two would not separate - married forever, probably could have bit the nylon bushing and broke it, not much too it - just replace both. These two parts are in Delux kit. Dremel saw cut the ring, end of story in 10 seconds.
If the woodrift key doesn't move with one shot (ok, two shots), don't bother, dremel saw cut a slot and vice grip squeeze and hit the vice grips, it will come out. New key in kit.
Forget about using grease to hold outer O ring in place, simply because the new O ring needs to be stretched as well as there is a grove only for half it's length, the other half is a notch (untrapped).
Yamaha bonded the impeller cup to the outer housing working O ring side up so no chance to screw up the O rings, make sure you get them right, then they installed both the housing with cup over the impeller at the same time.
I didn'y have the cement Yamaha manual called for, what I did was hold the O ring in place where it is trapped then worked it down onto the cup and made sure the dangling part of the O rings went over the side of the cup (that's what traps the O ring on that side).
Prefit the outer housing so it falls onto the centering pins w/o any assistance, then do the O rings, and pull the tips of your fingers out last, if it falls all the way, it is in the groove. Small inner O ring stays put with grease. And grease both O rings
White grease on driveshaft splines but clean off top, and same grease on splines for shifter.
Don't forget, the lower unit has centering pins (just like water pump but smaller size) to align to the mid section, don't ask how I realized this, and
they are not tight in bore so be aware not to loose them.
Good luck.
Suggest to get his Delux kit since all parts but the outer nylon housing is new, it doesn't wear out and not likely to be broken.
You can keep the wear plate and impeller cup for reuse next time, to save a buck, presuming minimal wear and undamaged. The outer nylon housing costs a few bucks so don't back your car over it.
You won't know what any of this is below until encountered, just keep it with the SIM HOTSPOT F200 instructions, you will when the time comes.
I did this for the HPDIs, similar for Fs.
------------------------------------------------
Getting the stainless retainer ring off the shaft nylon bushing was a waste of time, the two would not separate - married forever, probably could have bit the nylon bushing and broke it, not much too it - just replace both. These two parts are in Delux kit. Dremel saw cut the ring, end of story in 10 seconds.
If the woodrift key doesn't move with one shot (ok, two shots), don't bother, dremel saw cut a slot and vice grip squeeze and hit the vice grips, it will come out. New key in kit.
Forget about using grease to hold outer O ring in place, simply because the new O ring needs to be stretched as well as there is a grove only for half it's length, the other half is a notch (untrapped).
Yamaha bonded the impeller cup to the outer housing working O ring side up so no chance to screw up the O rings, make sure you get them right, then they installed both the housing with cup over the impeller at the same time.
I didn'y have the cement Yamaha manual called for, what I did was hold the O ring in place where it is trapped then worked it down onto the cup and made sure the dangling part of the O rings went over the side of the cup (that's what traps the O ring on that side).
Prefit the outer housing so it falls onto the centering pins w/o any assistance, then do the O rings, and pull the tips of your fingers out last, if it falls all the way, it is in the groove. Small inner O ring stays put with grease. And grease both O rings
White grease on driveshaft splines but clean off top, and same grease on splines for shifter.
Don't forget, the lower unit has centering pins (just like water pump but smaller size) to align to the mid section, don't ask how I realized this, and
they are not tight in bore so be aware not to loose them.
Good luck.