I've been on the search for my next boat and I took a look at a potential boat today. Overall the boat was in good shape but my only real concern dealt with the aluminum trim that is mounted under the engines along the transom. I know there is proper name for this piece of aluminum but don't know what it is. Anyways there was some minor pitting on this piece of aluminum but at 1 spot the corrosion went all the way through the aluminum (about the size of a pencil eraser). My thoughts are this could be a source for water to enter the transom and I've read where people have removed the engines and completely glassed that area over. If I proceed with this boat it will definitely be surveyed but I wanted to see what everyone else thought. Thanks.
Checked out a boat and need advice.
- Thread starter Finatic
- Start date
You are absolutely correct in being concerned about the condition of transom underneath that transom notch molding. This molding not being sealed properly is most likely the greatest source of transom rot on older Gradys. Water enters under this molding when it is guided there it by angle of transom top edge. Once water is under this molding it goes directly into the wood core of transom and starts deteriorating it. That is because under this molding is the open seam of where boat hull and inner liner are joined. Once water is in core, it is encapsulated and never leaves.
This transom molding is sealed from the factory, but sealant washes out over the years, and some owners fail to reseal this area. A good way to do a quick check on top area of one of these type transoms is to remove a couple of the molding screws and press an icepick like tool into the hole and feel if wood core is soft. If it is, replacing transom core is a pretty extensive repair, and cost plenty of money. You can also pull a screw or two from lower transducer, speedometer, trimtab, etc on lower outside transom, and see if water flows out. I personally would not buy a boat with this type transom notch molding, unless seller would allow me to remove and reinstall a couple of these screws to check transom core. It doesn't hurt anything, and if seller won't allow you, then there is a reason why. Just my opinion.
This transom molding is sealed from the factory, but sealant washes out over the years, and some owners fail to reseal this area. A good way to do a quick check on top area of one of these type transoms is to remove a couple of the molding screws and press an icepick like tool into the hole and feel if wood core is soft. If it is, replacing transom core is a pretty extensive repair, and cost plenty of money. You can also pull a screw or two from lower transducer, speedometer, trimtab, etc on lower outside transom, and see if water flows out. I personally would not buy a boat with this type transom notch molding, unless seller would allow me to remove and reinstall a couple of these screws to check transom core. It doesn't hurt anything, and if seller won't allow you, then there is a reason why. Just my opinion.
Thanks for the reply. That's a great suggestion about removing a screw or two to check out the dryness of the transom. What's your thoughts about the small hole that has corroded through the aluminum? What would cause this? My thoughts if I end up with this boat, is I'll patch the small hole with JB Weld and them reseal all the screws and along the seem. This Grady is not that old but if I go with it I want to make sure I repair the area properly.
Finatic said:
Hole that has corroded through the aluminum molding is classic example of galvanic corrosion. Two dissimilar metals (aluminum molding/stainless steel screw), with an outboard touching molding and going into water/saltwater, hooked to a battery and alternator/generator producing voltage. Happens very frequently. You can fight this with good grounds and anodes, although sometimes boat may be kept in a marina that has nearby boats producing electric into water, through bad grounds and shore leads, etc. that affects other boats. It is an easily cured problem on an individual boat that I would not be too concerned about, but never the less it is an issue to help negotiate price.
Grady started using rot resistant (Greenwood XL) plywood in their transoms at some point. One post said 1998, not sure. That may retard any water intrusion structural issues, but I'd still look for any wet spots if possible. I'd ask GW what year they started using the better plywood to make certain and use that as a guide to how concerned you should be if you find any softness.
Ozz043
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Finatic
I bought a Marlin knowing it had a wet transom, like you I noticed the aluminium was corroded and also the glass was starting to swell. I got the boat for a good price so I was happy ( besides I wanted a marlin and it was the only one in Australia :dance ) honestly though it's not all bad just factor the repair cost when buying the boat. A good deal of the transom ply was replaced, we also added another piece of aluminium plate to the existing one, it took the shipwrights 60hrs, $3,500 Aus. The Grady is tough as nails, unfortunately the sealing of the transom was poorly done in the older ones...check out my video in the photo section to see how we faired...good luck what ever your choice.
I bought a Marlin knowing it had a wet transom, like you I noticed the aluminium was corroded and also the glass was starting to swell. I got the boat for a good price so I was happy ( besides I wanted a marlin and it was the only one in Australia :dance ) honestly though it's not all bad just factor the repair cost when buying the boat. A good deal of the transom ply was replaced, we also added another piece of aluminium plate to the existing one, it took the shipwrights 60hrs, $3,500 Aus. The Grady is tough as nails, unfortunately the sealing of the transom was poorly done in the older ones...check out my video in the photo section to see how we faired...good luck what ever your choice.