The boat sat awhile and the hardtop down tubes are varnished and accumulated salt deposits, was wondering best way to clean them up.
Cleaning Hard top Aluminum Down Tubes
- Thread starter Capt CMG
- Start date
A good scrub first with soap, water and a mild scrubbing pad. After everything dries, I use Woody wax. The stuff is expensive but works fairly well on both aluminun and stainless. Depending on the condition of the metal, you may need to apply the wax and let it sit for up to a day. There is a Woody wx 'kit' available that also has a metal sealer.
Woody wax works really well on decks. I think the kit cost me about 40 bucks but it goes a long way.
If the aluminum is really corroded, you can actually sand it with wet/dry sandpaper and water. Just go with the grain and use failry fine grades of paper. After the sanding, do the cleaning and waxing mentioned above.
Woody wax works really well on decks. I think the kit cost me about 40 bucks but it goes a long way.
If the aluminum is really corroded, you can actually sand it with wet/dry sandpaper and water. Just go with the grain and use failry fine grades of paper. After the sanding, do the cleaning and waxing mentioned above.
Make sure you buy the woody Wax KIT, it is more, but they also sell just a wax or just a cleaner, the KIT is what you need for your situation, it costs more and is harder to find at times but will work better. I agree 100% with wash it first...don't use dish detergent, infact never use that on a boat, it will haze the gelcoat quick and take the shine out of it. Use a mild boat soap, and like stated above, warm water is best, especially for this job.
Only other option to get it off if it still remains is emry paper, but that will likely leave take some of the shine off the pipework and would not be my recommendation. I would use the woody wax and if needed apply the cleaner twice. Before waxing it, you may not be able to remove 100% of it easily if it has sat really long and been neglected.
Only other option to get it off if it still remains is emry paper, but that will likely leave take some of the shine off the pipework and would not be my recommendation. I would use the woody wax and if needed apply the cleaner twice. Before waxing it, you may not be able to remove 100% of it easily if it has sat really long and been neglected.
I was given a free sample of Woody Wax at a fishing fair. My boat is an old boat and not well cared for by the previous owner. The instructions on the package said to use bronze wool and Woody Wax to take off the pits and oxidized material. I followed the directions and it came out looking much better. From a distance, the shine is fantastic. Up close, you can still see the hazed metal. I think it looks about as good as it will ever be without sanding.
I had the same issue last year with my Grady and followed everyones advice regarding Woody Wax. Great stuff and great results.
I spoke with the company back then as well and they gave me a tip that I hadn't seen on their website or bottle, etc.
They said to coat the tower legs with woody wax and leave it on there for a week or so. Then go back and reapply/remove as per the instructions. I did it their way and the "normal" method as a test. Big difference when you leave it on for a week. Istrongly suggest trying it.
I spoke with the company back then as well and they gave me a tip that I hadn't seen on their website or bottle, etc.
They said to coat the tower legs with woody wax and leave it on there for a week or so. Then go back and reapply/remove as per the instructions. I did it their way and the "normal" method as a test. Big difference when you leave it on for a week. Istrongly suggest trying it.
LI Grady said:
I have left it for a day but will try your suggestion on some of the aluminum windscreen frame. Thanks