The laminate, false wood, cockpit trim is really showing signs of age. Does anyone know of any options to either restore the original look, or to replace the trim?
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Cockpit Trim Restoration - 1993 Explorer
- Thread starter scottg
- Start date
Patsy Mac
Well-Known Member
Pick up a can of Penetrol. It restores the look. I apply it twice a year to the laminate, and it returns it to almost new condition.
Backwash II
Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2008
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
My boat's previous owner gave me a can of Penetrol and Golden Teak Oil, and said mix half and half and apply twice a year. Seems to work well. Just doesn't last too long. Good luck.
jpendejo
Active Member
Grady Plasteak Restoration
I cleaned very thoroughly the Plasteak, using a fine bristle brush and Windex .
I cleaned it twice and then applied a coat of Woodys(blue bottle) and waited a half hour , then applied a second coat and let it dry.
It has held up the best so far. I am located in Jersey, and it is exposed to all of the elements, and it is still brown, and not bleached out white.
I also tried it on the blue rub strip, and it worked great.
goodl luck,
Jim
I cleaned very thoroughly the Plasteak, using a fine bristle brush and Windex .
I cleaned it twice and then applied a coat of Woodys(blue bottle) and waited a half hour , then applied a second coat and let it dry.
It has held up the best so far. I am located in Jersey, and it is exposed to all of the elements, and it is still brown, and not bleached out white.
I also tried it on the blue rub strip, and it worked great.
goodl luck,
Jim
3rd Day
Well-Known Member
Paint conditioner. Available at Home Depot or ACE hardware3rd Day said:What is Penetrol.?
wrg49
Member
Had the same problem with '94 Explorer.. removed some of the strips and re-laminated with similar woodgrained formica.. then I found an easier solution..use the Penetrol paint additive.. you may have to reapply it from year to year, but sure beats replacing or re-laminating wood strips .
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2005
- Messages
- 4,746
- Reaction score
- 6
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Long Island, NY
- Model
- Sailfish
I noticed the duratrim is a double faced product, flip it over and swap sides of boat for asymetrical pices, you will start the trim on it's second life. May hav e afew extra hole sin it, but so what.
Penetrol actually works very well.
Other than penetrol you will have to cut and bond a formica wood grain replica to get back the finish, a lot more work than flipping or penetrol.
Penetrol actually works very well.
Other than penetrol you will have to cut and bond a formica wood grain replica to get back the finish, a lot more work than flipping or penetrol.
I have a '94 Adventure and ended up sanding off the old fake wood grain, and then applied WD-40 with a rag a few times. Not perfect, but it restored the brown color to what used to be a worn, faded gray. Just no wood grain anymore.
Jeff
Jeff
Merculator
Member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2009
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
If you like the look of real wood you can make yourself some really nice replacment wood panels. I stripped the wood off my old Regal Majestic - it had some nice mahogony rails that I salvaged. I traced out what was left of the original wood grain pattern to make a cardboard template. I then cut two boards out of the rail for each side panel and traced out the pattern using the templates. I seamed the two boards together with glue and drilled some holes to insert dowels to finish the joint. I then routed a small recessed channel in the seam of the two boards. I took an oak dowel flattened one side, beveled the edges, and tacked it in the seam with brass wire brads and some epoxy. A good sanding, a generous coat of varnish and.... done. I re-used the original aluminum trim to cap it off.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Merculator/ ... 5508010050
http://picasaweb.google.com/Merculator/ ... 8239204946
looks like a damn 1950s Cadillac interior or something, gets alot of attention! and theres nothing like the look of real wood.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Merculator/ ... 5508010050
http://picasaweb.google.com/Merculator/ ... 8239204946
looks like a damn 1950s Cadillac interior or something, gets alot of attention! and theres nothing like the look of real wood.
Lenbythewater
Member
Durable Grady Trim finish
I too have a 1993 Adventure in need of a trim refinish. The March 2009 saltwater mag had an article on the subject. A Matt Wichell of Winchell Marine in Wilmington NC reccomended using a "Bristol" epoxy coating that had a life that outlasts most varnish finishes. I would like to try this to refinish my trim. But,I have not been able to find a source for the Bristol epoxy coating. Are any of you familiar with it or know of a supplier of the product?
I too have a 1993 Adventure in need of a trim refinish. The March 2009 saltwater mag had an article on the subject. A Matt Wichell of Winchell Marine in Wilmington NC reccomended using a "Bristol" epoxy coating that had a life that outlasts most varnish finishes. I would like to try this to refinish my trim. But,I have not been able to find a source for the Bristol epoxy coating. Are any of you familiar with it or know of a supplier of the product?
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2005
- Messages
- 4,746
- Reaction score
- 6
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Long Island, NY
- Model
- Sailfish
If it's duratrim, flip it over and transfer pieces from one side of boat to other, even holes may line up.
jbeyo
Active Member
I agree with 1'st Grady.
Check out this web site. http://www.finaddictmarine.com/
I just ordered the three doors for my 1983 tournament 245. They are around $100 per door for custom sizes.
Check out this web site. http://www.finaddictmarine.com/
I just ordered the three doors for my 1983 tournament 245. They are around $100 per door for custom sizes.