How long has it taken you to rewire a 190 tournament, or comparable boat? I recently purchased a 1985 year Tournament 190. The wiring behind the console is a rat's nest. The only gauges that work are the tach and engine temp. It looks to be mostly original wiring (lot of connections are corroded through, same with some wires) I know it will be a pain, but definitely will save a lot of cash if I did it myself. I guess tracing the wires is the "hard" part...
Complete Rewire Time
- Thread starter fishgitter
- Start date
Took me a little more than two weeks(working after work for 2-3 a day) to do this and i still have to connect everything on "the other side" of the cable runs.
This is on my Formula 233 full restoration i am doing.
This is on my Formula 233 full restoration i am doing.
If it's your first time well over 40 hours. You'll be opening up areas all over to find out how it's wired, run new wires, terminate, then test and hope you didn't #$#@ up. When you're done it will be a definite improvement but it sounds easier than it is.
I rewired my 84 grady white 223 in the better part of 3 weekends. I also relocated the fuse panels to the back side of the bulkhead where you can see whats going on if you have an issue versus the factory that placed it right under the helm where it couldn't be reached and every time I went in there I tore another circuit up.
I would reccomend both Genuinedealz, and gregsmarine supply for purchasing quality tinned wire and connectors. Heat shrink terminals and plenty of zipties are a must. Also I wouldn't mess around with 10, 20, 50ft sections of wire if I were going to do it all over again. I would only purchase 100ft rolls or larger. Nothing is more frustrating than getting getting stuck with a 13ft wire for a 15ft run, having to pull the whole thing back out and do it again etc.
Mine sure isn't professional, but I know the lay out like the back of my hand and it is about 100x better. The best thing is when you flip a switch, you know everything works as it should. No guessing. hoping, or praying.
I would reccomend both Genuinedealz, and gregsmarine supply for purchasing quality tinned wire and connectors. Heat shrink terminals and plenty of zipties are a must. Also I wouldn't mess around with 10, 20, 50ft sections of wire if I were going to do it all over again. I would only purchase 100ft rolls or larger. Nothing is more frustrating than getting getting stuck with a 13ft wire for a 15ft run, having to pull the whole thing back out and do it again etc.
Mine sure isn't professional, but I know the lay out like the back of my hand and it is about 100x better. The best thing is when you flip a switch, you know everything works as it should. No guessing. hoping, or praying.
Attachments
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wiring2.jpg
Tim, how many primary wires did you pull back to front, and could you list what they operate? Getting ready to do my '86 T-22 ... :|
Let me think through this
2awg ground +/- (I moved starboard battery under console, you wouldn't need this)
6awg pos- Power from battery switch to main fuse panel
6awg neg- power from switch to main fuse panel
(7)14awg- Blue Anchor Light, 2 Brown for (2) bilgepumps, 2 pink- fuel senders 2 red Washdown and livewell. I have a ground bus in the rear of the boat that hooks directly the port battery as well as the main engine ground. This is where all of my bilge accessories are grounded. My grounds under the console are terminated to the starboard battery as well as the main engine ground.
I am sure I am overlooking or forgetting something, I did not re-do the gas tank grounds, only repaired a few terminals. In hindsight if I were to do it all over again, I'd personally move both battery's, and the switch up under the helm. Would clean up the wiring, and move extra weight off the transom.
-Tim
2awg ground +/- (I moved starboard battery under console, you wouldn't need this)
6awg pos- Power from battery switch to main fuse panel
6awg neg- power from switch to main fuse panel
(7)14awg- Blue Anchor Light, 2 Brown for (2) bilgepumps, 2 pink- fuel senders 2 red Washdown and livewell. I have a ground bus in the rear of the boat that hooks directly the port battery as well as the main engine ground. This is where all of my bilge accessories are grounded. My grounds under the console are terminated to the starboard battery as well as the main engine ground.
I am sure I am overlooking or forgetting something, I did not re-do the gas tank grounds, only repaired a few terminals. In hindsight if I were to do it all over again, I'd personally move both battery's, and the switch up under the helm. Would clean up the wiring, and move extra weight off the transom.
-Tim