Cracked/crushed strake

Tommyboy

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Yesterday the weather was kinda nice, I was pokin around the boat (1st time since November) ... I noticed the lower strake on the port side was cracked/crushed on the tailing edge (about 3 inches long). It appears that a trailer roller, rolled directly over this spot and caused the damage.
I called my guy and he said it was probably an air bubble that has been there since the hull was layed and was a 'soft spot' ... He said he had seen this before (especially on a few Grady's) ... Anybody ever seen this before??

Thanx Tom :?:
 

'84Offshore

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I had the exact problem this year caused by a roller that came off...........I am repairing it with MarineTex.
 

NIGHTIDES

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I too had the exact same 'void' area in a strake about 5yrs ago. Filled in the space w/ epoxy & thickener. Sanded and then bottom painted.

Not so isolated an experience it seems. An easy fix.
 

Tommyboy

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Hey guy's thanks for the replies .... How difficult is this to repair .. I am a DIY'er .... but when it comes to HOLES in the hull of my boat I'm chicken s*&% ...I think I'm gonna pay a professional (or at least someone who has done it before!) ........

Tom
 

gradyfish22

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Depending on how strakes are put onto the boat and laid up, they can get voids of air, many builders build them to provide lift, but lift in the water is somewhat different then supporting a load on a trailer, if not made to support the hulls weight they will crush from poor roller placement or improperly loading the boat on the trailer. Best way to repair it is to buy structural foam from a marine dealer that cna already be cut into the wedge and then lay glass over it, that way there is no air void, otherwise you would have to completely make the wedge out of glass which would require more work and time. Key when glassing the area is to be very precise with the roller to get rid of all air bubbles in the resin. Over wet the glass mat and then roll some of the resin out, more resin is typically better then not enough. Since the boat is not upside down, you will need something to support the glass on the hull to keep it from falling off, I'd use another piece of glass that has been waxed to allow release from the cured resin and glass you worked on, anything else will stick, and not supporting it will allow the glass to slowly come off, glass with resin weighs more then you think and gravity will do it's own thing and try to pull it off before it cures. Adding an accelerator to the resin to make it harden faster might be a good idea. I'd recommend 2 layers of glass, not just one, and a quick once over with heavy grit sand paper between layers once they have cured.
 

Tommyboy

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Earlier today while prepping the hull for cleaning/painting ..I discovered that I also have a crack in the strake on the starboard side in almost the same spot as the one on the port side (maybe an inch forward) ... Do I now assume that I had two 'air bubbles' ? ????? This is not good.. I'm kinda freakin out ......Any body seen this B4???

Tom
 

Brad1

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How deep is the void? If it is not very deep, buy a Spectrum patch paste kit and fix it. It's an easy repair.

I had a void just below the rub rail on my grady. Fixed with a patch paste kit. When I was done, I couldn't even see where I had made the repair. I once had a void on a strake on a Proline. Fixed it with a patch paste kit. Same thing. When done, couldn't even tell it was repaired. Strakes are a common location for voids. Voids are not uncommon on hand laid up boats.
 

Hookup1

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Hull Repair

Are the strakes taking on that much load when your putting the boat on/off the trailer? It sounds like the damage isn't sitting on top of the roller. Can the rollers be relocated to a flatter part of the hull?

It may not be air bubbles as much as a lot of weight on a small point of contact. If the rollers are causing the problem your going to have to fix it otherwise you'll be repairing it again.

Your going to need to grind out the gelcote to see what is going on underneath. Is there a void or just cracked gelcote? Interlux has a two part epoxey filler that would be good for the repair. Sands well yet is strong. Boaters World may have it (all paint / epoxey 30% off at closing).

A few things to consider if you DIY. Give the repair material something to hold on to - grind it out. Sand and wipe with lacque thinner before appling whatever and between coats. Work in layers. Don't try to repair a larger hole in one shot. It's is easier to put this stuff on than to take it off!

Make a jig out of wood to give you the shape of the strake. Pull it over the repair to shape the repair and get it close. Your going to have to hand finish it anyway.
 

Tommyboy

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The trailer is not mine, it is my mechanic's trailer, he hauls hundreds of boats with it (including his own 25 Grady) ... I intend on having the repairs done professionally as I have never had much luck with fiberglass repair ..... I was just thinking that it's a bit odd to have 2 voids in my hull? Hookup1, Thanx for the input ..... what marina are you from??


Tom
 

Hookup1

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Fiberglass repair

Tommybox - I'm at Schooner Island.

In anticipation of your next question - no...I don't know a good fiberglass guy in the area. Have helped a friend on DIY projects including a 1 square foot hole (torn out rudder port) on a 37 Wellcraft.
 

Tom H

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How big are we talking

Hi, looking at this with interest, but how big a void are you talking about. The size of you finger nail and 1/8" deep or monstrous? I've seen plenty of small ones on other boats before after a bit of a too severe water blast on the hard stand, simply fill with some 2 pack epoxy , sand and paint,
 

Tommyboy

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Tom H ... the strake on the port side is crushed at the tailing end about 2 1/2 " long a 1/2 "wide ... the Starboard strake only has a hairline crack, it is about the same length but about 1 1/2 " forward of the tailing edge .... I talked with my guy, he's gonna pickup the boat and stop in Millville at his shop to fix .. then take her to WW .... I hope to be in the water by the end of next week .... :?:

Tom