Cutting the stern wall of unused fuel tank compartment? ?

[DoctorOctopus]

Hi Mike Grady white does not have the rear fuel tank. It is a 1986 226 seafarer. With the engine on a bracket and live well center stern.

The bilge pump’s is an incredible hassle to access (remove live well completely. Get lowered by your ankles to the depths of the bulge. )

the empty fuel tank compartment under the floor deck would give east access.
Is there any danger in cutting a big section of the rear away and putting in a door?

will I lose structural integrity?

 

[DoctorOctopus]

 

[seasick]

If the piece you are asking about is a bulkhead, cutting it would most likely cause a structural weakness. If the structure runs completely from one side of the hull to the other it is structural. If it runs between two stringers, it is less structural in a way Is the section above the deck or below the deck?
I don't think I would do it.

 

[cosmic]

I don't have that boat, but if it's like the sailfish you're talking about the wall where there's a plug that drains the fuel tank compartment to the bilge. That's indeed a bulkhead.

You can cut an access hole but will need to do it right to ensure structural integrity is maintained. Maybe that means glassing in a beam above the cutout, or an entire sister bulkhead. Whatever you do make sure it's stronger than when you started and you'll be fine. Just cutting stuff out is probably a bad idea, especially on a 36 year old bulkhead that may already be weakened.

 

[DennisG01]

I agree with both statements above. It sounds like it IS a bulkhead (structural member) and it WOULD be OK to cut as long as you reinforce properly. Unless you're comfortable doing this work, let it alone. Besides, accessing a bilge pump is not something you have to do all that often and it might be best to leave it as is.

 

[DoctorOctopus]

I agree with both statements above. It sounds like it IS a bulkhead (structural member) and it WOULD be OK to cut as long as you reinforce properly. Unless you're comfortable doing this work, let it alone. Besides, accessing a bilge pump is not something you have to do all that often and it might be best to leave it as is.

I’ve had to access it every Other year. Bilge pumps three times ( switch once pump once came off the bottom once ). Sea-lector valve for the live well wash down twice. (Just a terrible valve design. Wish I had brass if it was made )

But yes. If it’s structural I’ll not mess with it. I’m one deck plate away from peace and harmony !

I am glad I asked the folks who know here !

 

[DoctorOctopus]

This image should help
I will look at it from the battery compartment but it does not - to my memory- go the entire width of the boat.

If the piece you are asking about is a bulkhead, cutting it would most likely cause a structural weakness. If the structure runs completely from one side of the hull to the other it is structural. If it runs between two stringers, it is less structural in a way Is the section above the deck or below the deck?
I don't think I would

 

[vocz]

Can you move the pump to where the fuel tank located and drill holes on the wall to re-route the hoses?

 

[glacierbaze]

That bulkhead and the transom create sort of a box structure, to help support the stress on the transom. I wouldn't cut it, but I would find something useful to do with all that tank space. That is the main tank on my 2000 SF, what the tankage on the one you are using. You get used to pulling that livewell, but working down there is still a reach. You might consider something like I did for your pumps and float switches.
I don't have a picture of my livewell area on my computer, but thinking about that 4 rod holder attached to the front, there must be enough flat space there to put a large enough vertical hatch to work through. Still might have to remove, or raise, the well to reach under, but at least we wouldn't be standing on our heads.

 

[DennisG01]

I’ve had to access it every Other year. Bilge pumps three times ( switch once pump once came off the bottom once ). Sea-lector valve for the live well wash down twice. (Just a terrible valve design. Wish I had brass if it was made )

But yes. If it’s structural I’ll not mess with it. I’m one deck plate away from peace and harmony !

I am glad I asked the folks who know here !

Well, you just aren't having much luck with your bilge pumps! "Most" times, as long as there isn't "stuff" floating around in the bilge, bilge pumps are typically a once-in-a-great while thing. I know that doesn't help

A structural member does not always have to go all the way across. In this case, it's purpose is to support the stringers.

A well placed deck plate is a wonderful thing. Tip... always get a bigger one than what you're first think you'll need!

A couple thoughts on the valve...

-- Check out Apollo valves and Groco - see if they have anything that would work. Also check out Forespar for "Marelon" valves - these are a special, fiber-reinforced nylon and are VERY reliable.
-- Consider a bronze T or Y after the thru-hull's seacock and then individual bronze seacocks/ball valves for each accessory.

 

[DoctorOctopus]

couple thoughts on the valve...

-- Check out Apollo valves and Groco - see if they have anything that would work. Also check out Forespar for "Marelon" valves - these are a special, fiber-reinforced nylon and are VERY reliable.
-- Consider a bronze T or Y after the thru-hull's seacock and then individual bronze seacocks/ball valves for each accessory.

Finding a valve I can get lace in the vertical wall by the kivewell of the boat with the handle on the acesseinle part of the deck and the hoses on the other side of the wall is a challenge. You mommy see Bos worth sea-lector and they are terrible.

not sure how to mount anyvalve on the wall with the hoses o. The other side. I’d consider two valves over the poorly designed Sea-lector by Bosworth https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3526405

 

[DennisG01]

Finding a valve I can get lace in the vertical wall by the kivewell of the boat with the handle on the acesseinle part of the deck and the hoses on the other side of the wall is a challenge. You mommy see Bos worth sea-lector and they are terrible.

not sure how to mount anyvalve on the wall with the hoses o. The other side. I’d consider two valves over the poorly designed Sea-lector by Bosworth https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3526405

OK, you're gonna have read back through that and translate after you put the egg nog down

 

[Halfhitch]

OK, you're gonna have read back through that and translate after you put the egg nog down

Ha ha ha ha ha ha..........

 

[Hookup1]

Typical fuel compartments in GW's are closed to prevent leaking fuel tanks from leaking fuel into the bilge. That piping down the center links the forward bilge to the aft bilge. If you are going to repurpose it you need to consider this. That bulkhead may serve to separate the two tank compartments in which case it should be left alone.

 

[DoctorOctopus]

OK, you're gonna have read back through that and translate after you put the egg nog down

Place not “lace” Autocorrect Just see the Bosworth valve picture. My valve handle is in the boat not the bilge. The hoses are on the bilge side of course

 

[DoctorOctopus]

That bulkhead and the transom create sort of a box structure, to help support the stress on the transom. I wouldn't cut it, but I would find something useful to do with all that tank space. That is the main tank on my 2000 SF, what the tankage on the one you are using. You get used to pulling that livewell, but working down there is still a reach. You might consider something like I did for your pumps and float switches.
I don't have a picture of my livewell area on my computer, but thinking about that 4 rod holder attached to the front, there must be enough flat space there to put a large enough vertical hatch to work through. Still might have to remove, or raise, the well to reach under, but at least we wouldn't be standing on our heads.

I love this bracket!

It looks like you cut down a 60” aluminum ruler. Is it bolted to the foreword side or does it just rest there ? I assume in the second photo that foreward is on the left and aft on the right.
I have an L-bracket on by 35’ twin screw inboard and hadn’t considered it here. My idea was to put it on an L bracket and access through the old fuel tank compartment via a deck plate. This is why I asked about sawing a hole in that area.

But perhaps now that I think about it I might make it on a “Z” so I can access it from the starboard battery compartment. And bypass the live well altogether.

anything to avoid either removing the live well or reaching the only depths of my bilge. Either that or grow longer arms.-

 

[DoctorOctopus]

probably thee best solution regarding the Bosworth valve is to get rid of it entirely and have a separate live well and wash down

A couple thoughts on the valve...

-- Check out Apollo valves and Groco - see if they have anything that would work. Also check out Forespar for "Marelon" valves - these are a special, fiber-reinforced nylon and are VERY reliable.
-- Consider a bronze T or Y after the thru-hull's seacock and then individual bronze seacocks/ball valves for each accessory.

 

[DennisG01]

Place not “lace” Autocorrect Just see the Bosworth valve picture. My valve handle is in the boat not the bilge. The hoses are on the bilge side of course

OK, I think I get that one. But there's still others (see your post #17, too) that are making it difficult to understand what you are saying.

FYI, you can do a couple things to help prevent this confusion - first, proof read your post before you hit reply. Secondly, you can go back and use the edit button to fix things.

What's the issue with the Bosworth (I'm not familiar with them)?

 

[DoctorOctopus]

Typical fuel compartments in GW's are closed to prevent leaking fuel tanks from leaking fuel into the bilge. That piping down the center links the forward bilge to the aft bilge. If you are going to repurpose it you need to consider this. That bulkhead may serve to separate the two tank compartments in which case it should be left alone.

It’s the rear tank so the hole would’ve to the rear bilge /live well area not the forward fuel tank those two compartments would remain separate. It’s not the bulkhead between compartments. See photo above. there is indeed a drainage in the rear fuel tank to the bilge. The idea would be to add an access hatch or vertical deck plate. . Not to remove the compartment.

 

[Hookup1]

It’s the rear tank so the hole would’ve to the rear bilge /live well area not the forward fuel tank those two compartments would remain separate. It’s not the bulkhead between compartments. See photo above. there is indeed a drainage in the rear fuel tank to the bilge. The idea would be to add an access hatch or vertical deck plate. . Not to remove the compartment.

I understand the vertical deck plate. That bulkhead is a structural member. You can cut a hole for your hatch but leave a few inches of bulkhead all around the hatch. You also need to glass the exposed plywood and probably add some reinforcement. I'm not sure that would provide enough access to justify the work.

I would install (or pay someone to install) a new snap-in bilge pump, switch and hose and be done with it for a few years.