Hello all. I have an 02 222 fisherman always taken care of with low hours. I have a small section of the deck on the port side just forward of the jump seat that feels like the top layer of the fiberglass is "separating" or "flexing" when you walk hard on it. When I push down hard I feel a solid "floor" below after I press down the "skin" for lack of a better word. I have a few questions: Is this delamination? and if so how common and how serious is it? Could this be fixed by injection of epoxy by a professional? (that's what was suggested by a fiberglass guy over the phone) Can you just leave it alone? And finally, I assume that in this model year the deck is all fiberglass with no wood??? Thanks for your opinions and comments....
Deck delamination
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The big question is whether there is just simple delamination due to a manufacturing defect or if there is a more serious issue with the sub-structure. It would help if you can get a look underneath but I know that may be difficult. The least intrusive test is a moisture test done by a knowledgeable person. That should tell you if there is a water issue. If so and depending on the extent of the problem, this could be a big repair. The delamination could be caused by water or by excessive stress/flexing which could be a whole different problem.
My suggestion is to go for the surveyor doing a moisture test of the hull and deck.
I hope it's not too serious.
Good luck
My suggestion is to go for the surveyor doing a moisture test of the hull and deck.
I hope it's not too serious.
Good luck
Thanks Seasick! I had a fiberglass guy look at it today and he said to leave it alone, should not ever be an issue. Most likely not water, but a simple delamination exacerbated over time or just someone bouncing on and off the boat constantly in that spot. Sound reasonable?
I am not sure I agree totally. I hope he is right that it isn't a water problem but I am not sure how he can tell unless he was able to get a look underneath.. With respect to leaving in alone, if the deck flexes as you stand on it, it has a decent probability of crackig. You will probably see spider cracks first. So if it is simple delamination, I would consider the epoxy filler approach but again, if it is moisture or structural, that will only make things worse when if it comes time to cut and repair. Unfortunately, delamination is generally not a good sign. On the other hand, your problem could be a known defect with that model but only an surveyor with experience on your hull would know that.
Are you positive that the boat doesn't have a wood-cored deck? Reason I ask is that water intrusion/soft deck in that area (sounds like it's by the scupper drains?) would just be a more likely/common scenario than a delam of the gelcoat over fiberglass.
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Something just occurred to me but I am not sure if this is one of those brilliant ideas or one of those really dumb thoughts.
If the area in question is flat, I would place a straight edge over the spot to see if the flexing section is high (domed). It instead it is level with the surrounding area, then the sub-floor has shrunk, sunk, broken down or detached from its supports.
I don't know what the first case tells you but the second case says that there is a problem in the sub-floor.
The flexing surface is typically referred to as a soft spot and those are almost always indicative of a problem below the deck fiberglass surface
If the area in question is flat, I would place a straight edge over the spot to see if the flexing section is high (domed). It instead it is level with the surrounding area, then the sub-floor has shrunk, sunk, broken down or detached from its supports.
I don't know what the first case tells you but the second case says that there is a problem in the sub-floor.
The flexing surface is typically referred to as a soft spot and those are almost always indicative of a problem below the deck fiberglass surface
That's a very good point. (not a dumb thought at all LOL) As a matter of fact I did something like that. It seems that the floor below is rock solid when I press down, and the top skin is (for lack of a better word) slightly raised and "pops" up and down when pressed. Interesting isn't it?
Thank You. its about 2 .5 feet forward from the scupper, would the wood in the core be greenwood XL?
My Grady is older - sorry, I wouldn't know. Maybe it's mentioned in your owner's manual? Or ask Grady?
However, regardless of the type of wood, that doesn't prevent delam from happening. I'm not saying it IS happening, of course - just offering a common explanation. Well, let me change that statement - obviously there is delamination - but the root cause of it could be a couple of things - with water intrusion being a common explanation.
I had a similar spot. I had it injected. Two small holes, one for injection and one for air release. There was no moisture it had simply delaminated- likely not wet enough when the fabric was laid.
I would not ignore it. It will only get worse it won’t get better and likely won’t “stay the same”.
I would not ignore it. It will only get worse it won’t get better and likely won’t “stay the same”.
If the deck surface is NOT non-skid, a moisture test with the appropriate meter should tell you if the coring is wet especially when readings are compared to surrounding areas. Moisture test on non-skid surfaces are more difficult to get accurate readings. Note that an air gap under the deck layer ( as might be the case if the core is completely rotten and follow) will read perfectly dry on the meter.
One test I would do is to use a straight edge on the suspect area to see if the deck in the soft spot is low or if it is high at rest and when flexed. If obviously low, it is less likely that the issue is delamination because if the core was still intact, delamination would result in a bulge of the decking.
One test I would do is to use a straight edge on the suspect area to see if the deck in the soft spot is low or if it is high at rest and when flexed. If obviously low, it is less likely that the issue is delamination because if the core was still intact, delamination would result in a bulge of the decking.
Sorry, I had it done. They drilled two small holes, one on each end. They blew air in one hole and no moisture came out so the assumption is delaminated due to dry mold (not enough epoxy when glass together). Then they pumped in some epoxy mixed with filler until it came out other end. Then they let it sit a couple days and gel coated the small holes. You can’t see the holes unless I point them out. I think they used the equivalent of West System Six10.
Matan Marine has a video, I think it’s on the Mako videos, that discusses production dry spots. Mine it fixed and solid.
Matan Marine has a video, I think it’s on the Mako videos, that discusses production dry spots. Mine it fixed and solid.
Yeah, that’s different. I would open all the access holes and run a fan for a few days to help dry it out. First figure out where the water is coming from.
PointedRose
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This site has a lot of helpful info
Rot Repair in Glass Boats - The Rot Doctor
How to use epoxies to repair or replace transoms, floors, stringers and supports, engine bed mounts, wood-cored decks, delamination and other problem areas.
www.rotdoctor.com
Yes, you understand my thought about whether the soft are is 'domed' or if it isn't but flexes down.
As noted by others, you need to find the source of the water and that can be difficult. Sometimes you need to dig out the foam to find out where the water is flowing from. The foam as I mentioned should not be structural but will be a pain to remove.
There are UV dyes that you can mix with water that will glow in UV light, There are also dyes that are not UV sensitive but are colored. Add some tinted water to the possible sources, one at a time may help identify the source. I am not familiar with those dyes and whether they might stain the fiberglass or gel coat.
Check your thru hulls for signs of rust. If there are rust stains or flows, that thru hull is not sealed well and may leak.
I will see what I can find on dyes.
This product may work. Supposedly it doesn't stain and is non-toxic.
It is colored as well as UV light fluorescent.
It is colored as well as UV light fluorescent.
Red Water Tracing & Leak Detection Flourescent Dye Premium quality Non-toxic | eBay
CONCENTRATED WATER TRACING DYE. TRACE WATER LEAKS EASILY. Need a dye to trace water leaks?. Use EcoClean Solutions ultra-concentrated fluorescent water tracing dye for sewers, toilets, pools, and septic tanks.
www.ebay.com