Just checking if it is common for the deck to go soft and require the ply replacement on a 10 year old boat. I am told this under $1000 job to fix but am concerned that maybe transon etc may have the same problem. Could I have some comments or experiences please on this topic?
Deck going soft is this normal
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Alot of it depends on how and where you store it. Ten years is a little bit early for my liking however its very possible. My last cc was 14 yrs old and solid as new.
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It should cost you between $800-1000 to repair, unless you do some work yourself. The problem usually arises from the deck caulking that has worn. If the deck has been removed, or has not been resealed, water can seep through this area, drip onto and be absorbed into the wood beneath it. also, loose screws holding the deck down can also be a cause of problem. I try and check my deck and hardware screws a min of 2 times a season and if I am unsure of anything I repair it or recaulk it to prevent problems down the road. It is possible to do all this and still have issues, you could have a leaky hose from a livewell or fishbox that leaks from the hose and and runs along the wood beneath the deck. If it is soft, I would recommend having the work done, there is no way to reverse the damage except to have it all redone, waiting will not help the problem. I do agree that 10 years is on the early side for this to occur, typically it happens in 15+ year old boats. I'd recommend redoing all the caulking in the deck as well to try and prevent other parts of the deck from getting soft as well.
I am in the process of replacing the core of the deck on my 94 sailfish that also went soft.Having got into the job it becomes clear that the issue is water infiltration. which means there is no real age issue but rather matinance Any place where water can get in should be seviced with the proper bedding or sealer. If you keep water out you should have no problems. That said I would take the time to ask questions and do a little home work so you get the jist of how to do it right. Its not hard but worth getting right. In my case the screws that held the deck plates were not bedded and let water in once its in there there is no way for it to come out. so a few minuets with a screw gun and some sealer and you eliminate that problem and its kind of fun stuff to do. But like me you do need to replace the core of that deck panel but get on the other fittings . Good luck.
I just read gradyfish 22 and its great to realize the more you know about an issue here the more you can trust the advice you get here
Thanks guys thats a great help, we do not have a lot of Grady Whites to choose from over here so I guess anything second hand will have some problem or another. I just really wanted to know if I should be concerned about any potential structual problems in regards to the deck going soft.
ouch ! I am so happy you sent this along it makes so much sense the screw channel of only glass further isolates the core material which I was going to install tomorrow now I will trim down and recoat before installing. thanks
The biggest thing to check with any fastener as Pete said is that there is NO wood exposed to any through connection. It will absorb water. While our methods vary, I prefert the overdrill and pot with epoxy and then redrill proper size. If Grady did this from the factory they would not have a rep for hatch recoring issues. GW are you listening, I'm sure your laying up a future used boat for me right now....jh
jehines3 said:
Good point. Not to mention.... why in the world they used those small pieces of plywood, side by side. Someone told me, (I think it was a dealer) that they were layed out with the grain opposing each other, for strength. But, (imo), if the pieces are not actually joined together... what's the point?
I had mine recored a few years ago, and like everyone else, they used one full piece.
By the way, nice work NA2P.
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I had both deck panels donw on a seafarer years ago. Iw was amazing the difference in weight after the repair. The panels were about 1/3 the weight of the soft ones being replace. Not sure if it was because they were waterlogged or the weight differnce of the wood used. I had ot replace them at about the 12 year mark. Still know the new owner and they are just like new 8 year later.
Caulk all penetrations properly, there are very few penetrations drilled verticaly down that are not into wood coring - anywhere on the boat, including hardtop, pulpit, fordeck, cockpit bridge floor, walkaround, hand railing, rod holders, etc., etc. On wide bodies side hulls too are cored, rub rail, thruhulls, etc.