Deck Scupper drains on 228 Seafarer

[Ky Grady]

11-547 is the Grady part number for the stainless steel drains.

Seacern,, Sorry, just saw this. I used Life Seal caulk for my deck drains

 

[seacern]

Got mine replaced a couple of weeks ago using the stainless version from GW and 4200 to bed it.

Plan on replacing the hose at the same time it will make the job a lot easier and ensure a good seal on the new fitting. You'll need about 18" of hose per side. Use 1.5" Hardwall Exhaust/Water hose, that means it has the wire that keeps it from collapsing.

Hose like this-

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/shie...-price-per-foot--P011_333_001_505?recordNum=1

http://www.marinediscounters.com/hose-mpi-hardwall-marine-water-exhaust-1-1-2/

My local CARQUEST store had it by the foot.

Simplest removal is to cut the old hose in half and snip the wire with a pair of cutters, pry the flange off the old plastic fitting and pull the fitting through from the underside. On one side (battery side), I used a heat gun to soften the hose at the scupper connection and it pulled off easily. On the other side, the gas filter/water separator was right there to catch the heat so I scored the hose in multiple places with a utility knife and it came off with a little work.

I attached the drain elbow to the hose while above deck where it was easy, noting the curvature of the hose direction so once in place the elbow easily laid in the proper position under the deck hole.

I used a piece of 12" long 2x4 to fabricate a makeshift wrench for tightening the drain to the elbow. Turning the drain upside down on the 2x4, I marked two dots with a Sharpie at opposing grate openings. I drove in a 20-penny nail at each of the dots until it penetrated through the 2x4 against my anvil. I then used a hacksaw to cut off the nail heads leaving a 3/4" stud.

I lightly sanded both the hull and stainless flange mating surfaces and cleaned with Acetone. Liberal 4200 to stainless flange, insert into hole, hand tighten to elbow and then final tightening with the makeshift wrench. Clean up with Acetone.

 

[bFransen]

The seal around my drains started leaking, not the drains or hoses themselves. I think this was due to the bedding compound being old and when the hoses were replaced the force of getting them onto the drains began the process of breaking them free. Once I looked at the drains, I realized they needed replacing too so I followed the recommendations from here to find new drains.

To make life easier and not stress the new drains or sealant, I fit them onto the hose prior to putting bedding compound around the drain. That's a chore and putting the thing together while you've got some play in the system made it a lot easier. Once the pieces are connected, you can raise the drains up while still connected to the hose by pulling up on the hose from the back seat access. I pulled up the drain, put sealant around the drain and deck, and then push the drain down into place. It will sit held in place by the hose. I may have put a weight on top, but I can't remember.

Don't forget to put tape on the deck around the hole to avoid making a mess. Like the others here, I was very happy with the results.

 

[Bdsp1234]

I replaced both rear deck drain hoses this spring. First , those hoses are 20 years old along with the hose clamps and fitting. I replaced all of it. Go to your local Grady dealer or west marine. Get the blue stripe exhaust hose. It’s a forever fix. That hose works under pressure and handles heat. It’s not easy. Going to have to use a razor knife and cut away. Good luck and just be patient. When you are done, you’ll have good peace of mind. And by all means double up on the stainless steel hose clamps.

 

[Blaugrana]

For those that are interested, Marine Town still sells the stainless steel cockpit drains to individuals. It’s about $40 a piece plus shipping, taxes and surcharge so around 100 or so.

 

[glacierbaze]

The rear drains on my 2000 Seafarer 228 are 2 piece, like the one in the OP. The scupper itself is straight, and threaded, just like a 1 1/2" thru-hull. The elbow is straight off the shelf in any plumbing department, a dark gray PVC el, with female threads on one side, and a 1 1/2 hose barb on the other. Once I cut the hose out, I was able to reach under and unscrew the el. Put a new hose on a new el, loosened the drain nut with large channel-locks, and screwed the drain in from the top. Tightened the nut, and attached the other end to the transom thru-hull.
Peahead, the reason your elbow is dripping is probably because it is not even hand tight to the scupper, like mine was, not!
In hindsight, after wrestling with that old stiff hose, and knowing what is under there, I would just reach under there with the channel locks, loosen the retaining nut, and unscrew the scupper from the top. Then just remove the hose and el in one piece from the transom. Re-install in reverse, but don't connect the hose to the transom until you have a few good turns on the scupper to el connection. That will be my approach on the port side, where I have to deal with the battery charger and the oil tank.
I think one of the keys is to get hose that fits your fixtures , but not so tightly that it becomes a wrestling match to get them on, that's what clamps are for. I replaced with 1 1/2 sanitation hose. I see nothing in the photo of my old hose to make me think that it is the best for the job.