Electrical Wiring Bugs?

[Walkers Edge]

My 98' 208 with a factory hardtop/e-box has an interesting issue.....
Within the ebox is the factory installed cd player, vhf, helm and spreader lights.

With fully charged deep cycle batteries I have a power distribution issue to those units. Even if I have the engine running (output 14.6v) there is too little power supplying those units, I can have the cd player on and the vhf will read a low battery indication. If I switch on the spreaders the radio shuts down for a few seconds.......

I believe the source of my problem to be a weak connection to the box or too small of a cable powering that bus panel, has anyone had a similiar issue with this situation? I just wanted some input before I began pulling things apart.

Thanks Guys,

 

[fishingFINattic]

I would check all connections - specifically the main supply and the main ground- maybe even cut it back and re-install new ring connectors.
I have cut wires back that looked good at first glance, only to find greec corrosion inside the jacketing -
Tim

 

[Walkers Edge]

Thats a good call I'll go back thru and start replacing key connections, I know the solution has to be simple just a PITA to locate.

 

[Hookup1]

Hardtop wiring

Turning the spreader light on killing the radio sure sounds like a loose terminal, bad crimp or bad battery problem. The spreader lights are a 10 amp load and will aggravate bad wiring.

Make sure BOTH battery terminals are cranked down with a wrench or pliers. Check or replace the lugs (solder them on) - grounds too.

Get your voltmeter out and start at the house battery. Your battery MUST charge to 12.5 / 12.6 volts as measured at the battery with a voltmeter - charger off. A battery at 12.0 volts is 75% discharged.

There should be a fuse block under the helm console. Turn everything on. Check voltages at the fuse block and the back of the units under load. I wouldn't be happy with anything less than 12.4 volts.

My experience with the factory wiring has been pretty good. I would look for things kludged or added - particularly around the stereo and VHF radio. You should feed them with 12 or 14 awg wire and don't skimp on the ground wires. Its called a circuit for a reason!

 

[seabob4]

Your boat is 10 years old, maybe 11. Cut a ring terminal off any of the original wiring, strip back and note what you find. Most likely, it will be black. This is moisture that has wicked it's way up the wire inside the insulation. Very, very common on boats of this age. The solution? Re-wire. The corrosion, which increases resistance, causes inefficiency and heat build up, which will cause breakers to trip, fuses to blow.

I'm working on 2 boats right now that exhibit the same problems. '04 NauticStar Bayboat and a '98 Proline 2950. Both live on lifts in the Tampa area. The Proline, she has no shiny copper left. The NauticStar? The company used cheap wire, therefore she almost at that stage.

Both basically need entire new harnesses, both main accessory and engine(s). Cheap? No. Heavy promotion of Corrosion-X and dielectric grease? Yes.

 

[Walkers Edge]

As an update.......
The wiring on my boat appears to be in great shape, I went back through and cut back some of the connections and all of the copper looks like new and there is no apparent voltage drop, even in the damp areas like the bilge.

The problem I believe I have isolated to the exposed blade fuse block mounted under the helm (this is not the most well thought out location). There is a varying drop through the bus that is most likely the culprit.
I am in the process of relocating and replacing this with a new block located inside on the cabin bulkhead. In this manner I can run the wiring so that moisture will be less of an issue.

The next issue I have which may or may-not be one in the same is the power supply to the Yamaha digital gauges. The other night when I ran the boat (prior to the new fuse block) my voltage began wavering from 14v down to 8v back and forth as if there was a loose ground wire or something. First glance at the wiring diagram indicates the gauges draw their power directly off the wiring harness from the motor with the exception of the nav light switch.

Am I correct in assuming it is most likely a connection? What else should I consider?

As always many thanks,

 

[seasick]

If the voltage to all equipment dropped to 8 volts, things would reset, like your GPS. If you turn on some lights and they are not LED, a drop to 8 volts would also be noticible in light level. You didn't mention either of these symptoms, so it is more likely that the voltage issue is more localised. It could be a ground OR a supply lead. There is a fuse somewhere for the gauge supply. I am not sure where it is but that is the second place I would look. The first is the wiring harness connecotrs themselves for the gauges both at the gauge side and then the motor side. next would be individual connections at the motor side.

 

[seasick]

I forgot to mention. My GPS and Sonar both have an option to display supply voltage. If yours does also , you can use those to double check voltages and see if the drop is affecting other electronis in addition to the Yami gauges.

 

[Walkers Edge]

That makes alot of sense, I had thesame feeling since the voltage wavered so substantially and rapidly without affecting the other instruments.

BTW the binder that grady provides with the chases and boat wiring diagrams are worth their weight in gold, I can't believe my 10yr old boat came with one and even moreso the boat was never touched/modified by anyone other then the factory/dealer which it making this whole process a little less of a headache.

 

[BobP]

Since you seem well experienced in using a voltmeter to look for excessive voltage drops, you will eventually find this last one.

The gauges are powered from the motor, not the ships aux feed.
I would verify the gauge voltage reading with a digital mulitimeter, get a $10 buck one from Sears on sale, with the big digits, connect and locate where you can see it while runing the boat (it in a zip lock bag so it doesn't get wet), and when you see the 8 V., verify it with the multimeter, connected to the yamaha harness pin connectors.

Remember, you have to look at the neg as well as positive leads for trouble.

A tip to help, in a situation like the hardtop box feed, leave the spreaker lights on for 10 minutes (spreaker lights are considerable loading) then feel around for warm or hot spots. A substantial voltage drop not due to undersized wiring is going to generate heat at a bad joint or connection, that may otherwise appear visually to be perfectly normal. The first place to investigate is in the most current carrying areas, then the lesser ones.

The hardtop feed is partially run in the frame, unless you pulled the feed all the way out of the frame, only electrical testing can find a fray in wiring insualtion where a rough internal edge or weld wore into it. The electrical test must be conducted at high loads to find it that way.

If you can't find the motor volagte issue, it may be best to turn it over to a yamaha mechanic since the motor may be compromised by it.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

look inside the motor harness
yellow wire is 12v
i have seen them corrode

 

[Walkers Edge]

Great suggestions!
I need to get these things worked out asap in case we actually get a weather window long enough to run to bimini before the wahoo quit.

 

[Walkers Edge]

Just as an update, the yamaha guage issue turned out to be a loose plug in the control wiring harness that was under a bit of tension from the factory wire ties.

Since then I have installed new raymarine A60, relocated the older garmin sounder/plotter, integrated XM radio into my head unit (most convenient modification so far, highly recommended), and most importantly new blue seas fuse block and wiring to all of my primary components. Back up to 100%....knock on wood.

 

[seasick]

Just as an update, the yamaha guage issue turned out to be a loose plug in the control wiring harness that was under a bit of tension from the factory wire ties.

Since then I have installed new raymarine A60, relocated the older garmin sounder/plotter, integrated XM radio into my head unit (most convenient modification so far, highly recommended), and most importantly new blue seas fuse block and wiring to all of my primary components. Back up to 100%....knock on wood.

Thanks for the update. It nice to hear something positive ( kind of an electrical pun)