Engine Flushing

[catch22]

If it was me, for a cold winter in the east, I would leave my motor tilted down in the salt. Paint the lower unit with anti-fouling and and let 'er sit. Better yet, pull the boat and dry-store it.

I've always had to paint a small area, (about 3 inch's) on the front of the lower unit, with the Gradys, but that's it. Once the water temps drop, I'd say below 50f, it seems like bottom growth is no longer a concern. I don't recall ever seeing any growth on the engine, after leaving it down in the winter.

 

[catch22]

because you can fry water pumps in 10 seconds

covering their butt's!!!

i will show where they are in the winter, after my training

still want to be good in with them, LOL

That's what I always thought, (you should not run the motor, using the upper flush port). I've heard many people say it's ok, but I was always afraid to try it.

What's the advantage to running the motor, while using the flush port anyway? I thought the thermostats and block were flushed without running it... yes/no?

 

[enfish]

because you can fry water pumps in 10 seconds

covering their butt's!!!

i will show where they are in the winter, after my training

still want to be good in with them, LOL

That's what I always thought, (you should not run the motor, using the upper flush port). I've heard many people say it's ok, but I was always afraid to try it.

What's the advantage to running the motor, while using the flush port anyway? I thought the thermostats and block were flushed without running it... yes/no?

I've always run the motor for about 30 seconds using the flush port for 10 years now, and never had any problems. But I'm not really sure why other than to have the water pump turn to make sure we clear out all salt from the pump.

So I guess I have the same question. Am I wasting my time starting the motor when flushing it out?

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

your opening the t-stats fully

but the t-stats have small pin holes in them anyways to allow a flush, but if you have build up, that will not work as good as opening them up

when you use the flush port, your forcing water down the water pump, as the water pump is trying to push it it

you will just wear out the pump and housing quicker

 

[catch22]

your opening the t-stats fully

but the t-stats have small pin holes in them anyways to allow a flush, but if you have build up, that will not work as good as opening them up

when you use the flush port, your forcing water down the water pump, as the water pump is trying to push it it

you will just wear out the pump and housing quicker

Ok... let me see if I got this straight...

If your boat is slipped... unless you use your "block the vents" method... it's safer, (water pump wise) to NOT run the engine while using the flush port? It would be very difficult to reach those vents in a slip anyway.

I would think if you flush the motor after every use, (using the flush port) you shouldn't have any build up, and there would be no need to risk damage by running it.

If you trailer your boat, I would use the muffs as often as possible. T-stats will open, giving a more thorough flush.

Sound good?

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

yes just flush it in slip no motor running

on trailer i use a big bucket not the muffs, because those suck also!!!

 

[BobP]

Keep the gearcase in water in subfreezing ambient conditions.

Out of the water, leave motor in running position or slightly tilted, no higher. Outboards drain themselves when vertical, no reason to use any antifreeze treatments for off season.

 

[vangrady]

Engine Flushing Adapter

Hey guys. Thank you for all your input and advice of engine flushing. Some of you guys have given me a hard time about discussing winter storage in August. I will save this topic until October. This weekend I used the flusing adapters on my engines and they worked great. The only problem was that one of the hoses came off on the engine side somewhere up in the lower cowling. I tried to re-attach it but it seems to disappear up in the power head. Can someone tell me how to do this or provide a diagram of where the hose connects. Mine are held on with zap straps and I would like to install hose clamps. It looks like I might have to take apart the lower cowling somehow??
Thank you.