Engine trim with batteries off?

family affair

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Here is a different angle. You can see the wake-up wire on the left battery.
They only have 1 for both engines.
20230405_184335.jpg
 

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Skunk, looking at your 1st comment on the thread - that is exactly the issue. Looks like the leads for these engines is shorter or were not extended to go to the switches.
Do you have longer factory leads to go to the switch or is there some type of extension?
 

SkunkBoat

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I'm confused by your situation. I would expect the dealer to tell you that the cables don't reach and give you a price for extending them. Actually I would have expected them to know the length of the cables and quote the extention in the price or "suck it up" in the "installation " price.

I checked and There is only one set of White & Black on mine also. That makes sense.

I am very confused by your picture. the two black batteries appear to be in parallel and Both motors are going there.

You might want to check the NMEA2k connections with the N2k Power Isolator. The gauges need N2k power separated from the rest of your N2k network because they have to power from the Key.


My original switches on my 265 are on the interior transom so the cables reached them easily

I have reconfigured my switches and batteries. I have extended on/off switches out under the gunnels so I don't have to open up the battery access to turn switches.

Here is a thread about that https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/new-battery-config-for-265.25744/


FYI, you can carefully split the motor cable Pos & Neg like a piece of licorice so the negs go to the batteries and the Pos go to the switches.
 
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I checked and There is only one set of White & Black on mine also. That makes sense.

I am very confused by your picture. the two black batteries appear to be in parallel and Both motors are going there.

You might want to check the NMEA2k connections with the N2k Power Isolator. The gauges need N2k power separated from the rest of your N2k network because they have to power from the Key.


Yes, the 2 black batteries are in parallel.
Looking at the engine factory leads again, it appears they are long enough to reach the switches.
I looked at the GW wiring diagram. It would be easy enough to run the positive lead to the battery switches.
I think get what you are saying about the network power. I would think the gages would only get power from the key. Wouldn't the rest of the network have to get power elsewhere?

 

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Yes, the 2 black batteries are in parallel.
Looking at the engine factory leads again, it appears they are long enough to reach the switches.
I looked at the GW wiring diagram. It would be easy enough to run the positive lead to the battery switches.
I think get what you are saying about the network power. I would think the gages would only get power from the key. Wouldn't the rest of the network have to get power elsewhere?
So, in the OEM Grady configuration...
Your two black batteries are supposed to be your STBD Start and your House battery and the blue die hard is supposed to be your Port start battery.
Stbd motor crank wire and wire to House circuit breaker on the Stbd switch FEED
Port motor crank lead on the Port switch FEED
STBD Battery bank on the "1"position, Port Battery on the "2" position. There should be a jumper from 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 of the switches.

idk if you have changed things.
 

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So, in the OEM Grady configuration...
Your two black batteries are supposed to be your STBD Start and your House battery and the blue die hard is supposed to be your Port start battery.
Stbd motor crank wire and wire to House circuit breaker on the Stbd switch FEED
Port motor crank lead on the Port switch FEED
STBD Battery bank on the "1"position, Port Battery on the "2" position. There should be a jumper from 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 of the switches.

idk if you have changed things.
I'm fairly certain that's how the f150's were set up. They were definitely not set up like they are now.
Aside from having power to the tilt units, what other advantage would there be to have them set up as is now?
 

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There is no advantage to them not being on battery switches.
There is no advantage to them being both permanently connected to the same battery bank.

These are bad things.
 
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I was wrong. The fuel pumps are turning on with the ignition key and the batteries off. The power cables are connected directly to each battery.
View attachment 29026
This picture gives me OCD... non-waterproof white connector plug with exposed pins... a cable inside a black woven sheath that looks to be about 10 feet too long so it was just folded back and forth and zip tied in a bundle... positive and negative battery cables routed from the middle black battery, over the top of the DieHard battery and around back where it came from... and everything else is just a tangled mess... looks like the backside of my television... Cable management is not the strong suit of whoever wired this. o_O


20230405_181745-jpg.29026
 
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This picture gives me OCD... non-waterproof white connector plug with exposed pins... a cable inside a black woven sheath that looks to be about 10 feet too long so it was just folded back and forth and zip tied in a bundle... positive and negative battery cables routed from the middle black battery, over the top of the DieHard battery and around back where it came from... and everything else is just a tangled mess... looks like the backside of my television... Cable management is not the strong suit of whoever wired this. o_O


20230405_181745-jpg.29026
I'm guessing the woven harness is the engine harness, as my new Zukes that were put on have an excess of harness like that as well. Kinda wondered what to do with all that extra wiring without cutting the wiring down and adding new connectors.

Agree it isn't the cleanest installation.
 
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This picture gives me OCD... non-waterproof white connector plug with exposed pins... a cable inside a black woven sheath that looks to be about 10 feet too long so it was just folded back and forth and zip tied in a bundle... positive and negative battery cables routed from the middle black battery, over the top of the DieHard battery and around back where it came from... and everything else is just a tangled mess... looks like the backside of my television... Cable management is not the strong suit of whoever wired this. o_O


20230405_181745-jpg.29026
It isn't much worse than the factory wiring, but it could use a little work. Since it looks like a need to reroute a few things I'll throw some OCD at it for you. ;)
 
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enfish

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It isn't much worse than the factory wiring, but it could use a little work. Since it looks like a need to reroute a few things I'll throw some OCD at it for you. ;)
Haha. Thanks. In all seriousness though, that white connector should have a rubber boot or at least some electrical tape wrapped around the back side of it and be oriented horizontally so water can't use gravity to drip down the wires and into the connector. The other big issue would take a long time to become a serious issue, but the negative battery cable from the middle battery being routed over the top of the positive terminal of the DieHard battery will eventually rub its way into a short. The rest of the stuff is just cosmetic. :)
 
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SkunkBoat

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I'm guessing the woven harness is the engine harness, as my new Zukes that were put on have an excess of harness like that as well. Kinda wondered what to do with all that extra wiring without cutting the wiring down and adding new connectors.

Agree it isn't the cleanest installation.
Don't even think of cutting that engine harness. Loop it as neatly as you can in a resonably protected fashion.

The Suzuki white plug is not as bad as you might think. There is grey silicone sealing the wires into the back of the plugs. They are quite professional.
They are much better than the OEM Grady molex plugs thruoghout the boat.
 

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Don't even think of cutting that engine harness. Loop it as neatly as you can in a resonably protected fashion.

The Suzuki white plug is not as bad as you might think. There is grey silicone sealing the wires into the back of the plugs. They are quite professional.
They are much better than the OEM Grady molex plugs thruoghout the boat.
Oh, i had no intentions of cutting it down. Ive got it bundled up pretty clean right now.
 

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Don't even think of cutting that engine harness. Loop it as neatly as you can in a resonably protected fashion.

The Suzuki white plug is not as bad as you might think. There is grey silicone sealing the wires into the back of the plugs. They are quite professional.
They are much better than the OEM Grady molex plugs thruoghout the boat.
That's good to know. It looks scarier than it is.
 

family affair

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I was reading through the factory manual last night. To my surprise the only way it shows to wire the engines is directly to the batteries. I'm not saying the factory GW set up is wrong, but Suzuki approves and instructs wiring directly to the battery.
I also came across this. I'm not familiar with some of the terms. Does anyone know for sure what this section of the book is about? I'm not sure if I need extra parts to charge 2 batteries off one engine.
20230408_091143.jpg
 

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The motor manual is not going to deal with battery switch configurations. That is the riggers problem.

That is talking about the Auxillary Charging cables. There is an Isolator in the charging circuit of the motor that splits (isolates) the charge to two batteries. If you have a single motor with a 1/2/both/off battery switch, and two batteries, you can run the aux cable directly to the "2" battery. You Run in postion 1 and the Start cable charges 1. The aux cable charges 2 regardless of the switch position. You are always charging both batteries. If you don't have an aux cable, you have to switch back & forth running on 1 or 2 to charge both batteries.

In a twin motor setup, you can use the aux cables to charge an isolated House bank.(OEM Grady uses the Stbd start battery as the House bank).
In this setup you run Stbd switch on 1, Port switch on 2 and the House is always charging if either motor is running.
 
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I don't see the "Isolator lead" or Aux charging cables in any of your pix. You don't have them. You would have had to order them with the motors.
 

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I don't see the "Isolator lead" or Aux charging cables in any of your pix. You don't have them. You would have had to order them with the motors.
Would I still be able to set the engines up like the f150's were, or would I need to buy the parts you mentioned?

Sorry for the dumb questions. Some of this I have confidence in, but I want to make certain I don't make an expensive mistake.
 

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I can't see your full setup of cables and switches.
Assuming your old motors were original Grady setup....

You can set them as the old 150s. You need to connect the red motor wires to the Feed (sometimes it says COM) terminal of the switches.
The stbd battery bank is connected to the 1 of the stbd switch. the port battery (the Die Hard?) connects to the 2 of the port switch.
There are a;ready jumpers between 1 & 1 and 2& 2 of the switches.
Look at your Grady manual it will have a diagram. You run with stbd switch on 1 and port switch on 2. Don't run on BOTH.

Your 12v "House" shares the Stbd pair of batteries. it connects to the Feed(COM) of the stbd switch along with the stbd red motor lead.

There may be some bilge pump brown/white wires with fuses connected to the 1 and/or the 2 of the switches.
 

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Skunk. From what you are describing, the GW wiring diagram, and what I'm seeing in the bilge, you are spot on. Thank you.
FWIW, when the dealer started the engines on muffs, they had each switch set to "both." Previously with the f150's the port switch was set to "2" and the starboard to "1" just as you mentioned.
Yesterday we decided to go run the boat in the water. I set the switches to 1&2 like I used to with the f150's. The port engine would start, but not the starboard. I have a feeling at least one of the batteries died. I put the switches to both. I restarted the port. It sounded a little weak. I waited a moment and then tried the starboard. No issue.
I'm going on vacation tomorrow. When I get back and out from under the pile, I plan to set the engines up like GW had them.