Engine Winterization Work

[jrem]

First year with my Gulfstream and single F250 and I am contemplating doing the winterizing work myself. The boat will be pulled out of the water next week and will go on blocks for the winter. I am not well versed in mechanics, but I am handy and can figure things out. I've got the service manual and have done plenty of googling on the winterizing topic.

So aside from getting the confidence up to do it, one issue is that when the boat is pulled, I am not sure what kind of proximity I will have to running water/garden hose in the boat yard. Does anyone encounter this and what have you done to get around it?

And of course, while i'm sure I'd save some pennies doing it myself, I obviously want it done right.

Any thoughts are appreciated1

 

[bayrat]

Dont know what youre planning to use the water for but if its to flush that f 250 using ear muffs and a running engine..dont. If you plan to use the flush port with the engine off, go right ahead.

 

[Lainie J]

You need the ear muffs and water to fog the engine. Its easy and will save you a couple hundred bucks. I have been doing my 2002 4 strokes since new in 2002.

 

[bayrat]

You need the ear muffs and water to fog the engine. Its easy and will save you a couple hundred bucks. I have been doing my 2002 4 strokes since new in 2002.

You have an F225; OP has an F 250... Bigger with multiple water inlets so cooling requirements are different. Safest bet is to check the owners manual for your particular engine.

 

[grady23]

If your that un-sure of what your doing, then at the very least get someone that has experience to help you.
At mistake could be VERY COSTLY. There is more to winterizing then just fogging the engine. You also need to remove the prop and check for fishing line grease the shaft and replace/re-torque the prop to the specs. Don't forget to drain the lower unit and replace the oil. And then there is the oil/filter change of the engine. I've never done a 4-stroke, but I understand there is a special adapter needed to attach to the intake.
BTW -- TOO MUCH oil ingested in to an engine too quickly can "Liquid-lock" the engine and cause MAJOR DAMAGE like a cracked piston and/or bend connecting rod(s).

 

[Gman25]

".but I understand there is a special adapter needed to attach to the intake."

------------------All you have to do when fogging is remove the spark plugs and spray directly into the cylinder..15 second bursts in each hole. turn the key for a couple of seconds with plugs still out and another 10 second burst in each hole. DONE FOGGING




"BTW -- TOO MUCH oil ingested in to an engine too quickly can "Liquid-lock" the engine and cause MAJOR DAMAGE like a cracked piston and/or bend connecting rod(s)"

-------------------Thats true, but to prevent that its recommended in the spring to remove the plugs and turn the key to blow out much of the fogging oil before starting.

 

[gradydriver]

Are you going to:
inspect battery and clean terminals
condition fuel
replace fuel filters
replace spark plugs
change engine oil and oil filter
TNT inspection and greasing
inspect wire connections
inspect zincs
inspect throttle linkage
grease the 6 or 7 grease fittings
change gear oil
re-tighten nuts - except cylinder head & crankcase bolts
remove prop & grease shaft
exhaust and water passage leak inspection
winterize fresh water systems, livewell pumps and oil coolers on power steering models
water pump & t-stat service every 2 years
inspect motor exterior
fog engine
CRC engine
If you're not comfortable doing all these....do what you can and get
a factory trained mechanic to do the rest...you now have a complete list.

 

[Gman25]

Are you going to:
inspect battery and clean terminals
condition fuel
replace fuel filters
replace spark plugs
change engine oil and oil filter
TNT inspection and greasing
inspect wire connections
inspect zincs
inspect throttle linkage
grease the 6 or 7 grease fittings
change gear oil
re-tighten nuts - except cylinder head & crankcase bolts
remove prop & grease shaft
exhaust and water passage leak inspection
winterize fresh water systems, livewell pumps and oil coolers on power steering models
water pump & t-stat service every 2 years
inspect motor exterior
fog engine
CRC engine
If you're not comfortable doing all these....do what you can and get
a factory trained mechanic to do the rest...you now have a complete list.

Dont forget to drain VST tank and might want to consider the internal zincs if they have never been done.I do mine every other year(between the spark plugs)

 

[cgmiller]

I am interested to find out how you make out. I have been winterizinf 2-strokes for 35 years or so but this is my second season with 4-strokes and I took it to the dealer last year when I bought the boat and had the both checked out and completely gone over and ended up doing many expensive things...which I wont have to do this year...BTW..I dont think the 4-strokes have VST tanks...I think that is an OX66 and HPDI thing...but I could be mistaken...

 

[cgmiller]

Oh...one other thing, if they dont have water where you are at, but you are on thew water, you could always use a submersible pump and a garden hose to get water to the engine....

 

[Gman25]

...BTW..I dont think the 4-strokes have VST tanks...I think that is an OX66 and HPDI thing...but I could be mistaken...

Yup, you are mistaken... My '05 F250's have VST tanks and its recommended that they be drained.

'05 300 Marlin w/F250's

 

[Fishermanbb]

I just did the complete winterization procedure on my 360 yesterday. It is not complicated and with the correct earmuffs you can absolutely run them off a hose.

You will need to change the fuel filter and oil filter in the engine. Also change the oil. Make sure to drain the water from the flush housing as well.

Start the motor on the muffs and warm it up. I run it on an external tank treated with fuel conditioner and a little oil.

Spray a little winterizing fluid into the intake (Fogging). You don't need much and it doesn't need to stall.

Once the motor is at temperature shut it off.

Drain the oil using the port at the top of the lower unit just below the block (This gets ALL of the oil out instead of pumping which leaves a little in there.)

Change the oil and fuel filters.

Refill the oil (6 Quarts) and check the level as you get to number 6.

Drain and refill the lower unit fluid.

Spray a little CRC in each plug hole and over the entire engine.

Remove and grease the prop.

Grease all fittings with a grease gun (You'll need one with a hose on it.

Check your TNT fluid.

Tilt the engine up and down a few times waiting about 2 minutes in between each turn to be sure all the water is out.

If you put over 100 hours on this season you can also change the plugs.

If you can get to it blow out the speedo pickup - Not critical but if you have access give it a shot.

Treat your fuel tank with stabilizer.

Change your external fuel/water separator.

Winterize fresh/salt water systems with non-tox. Depending on what you have determines what you need to do.

My brother-in-law and I (He's a marine mechanic) did the 360 in 6 hours and we took a break. It's not complicated. Take your time, do one thing at a time and follow the manual. Use the right oil and lower unit fluid.