I recently purchased a 2001 282 from a broker located in Maine. The boat was delivered with a full tank of regular gas - no ethanol or MTBE additives. The boats new home is Cape Cod, Massachusetts where the only fuel available is E10. I spoke with the broker about this and I was told when MTBE was banned in Maine(2006?) that they did not convert to the E10 gas but were able to provide gasoline for their boats without ethanol. My question: should I run my tanks as dry as possible before introducing ethanol into the system or because of the absence of the additive MTBE (apparently it does not play well with ethanol) can I fuel up anytime?
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Ethanol
- Thread starter dmcneane
- Start date
JUST-IN-TIME
Well-Known Member
mistymorn
Active Member
I had the same question and got differing opinions so I did some research. The gas stations here in Md changed over to e-10 and did nothing except add a 10 micron filter at the pump. one marina did have his "tank scrubed" before changing as e10 is a cleaning agent as well and has had no problems since doing it 17 months ago. I spoke to the fuel company as well and they indicated if no MTBE is in the fuel..go ahead and add gas as you normally would...checking you filters and water seperator frequently until all the fuel has been replaced. the biggest concern is if there is a problem...a full tank is much harder (and more expensive) to deal with if there is a problem than a partial tank would be. Therefore, the conventional wisdom is to run it down for this reason. Everyone has said to be sure to stabilize your fuel by adding Startron or a similar product. As for me, I am concerned about condensation, as we are a prime candidate due to hot days and cool nights, so I elected to go ahead and add the e10. I ran my tank down to about 1/2 and so far no problems at all. Keep us informed as to your change-over.
I too am concerned about moisture in my fuel tanks. I rather keep my tanks nearly full but I think I will be running my fuel tanks as low as I dare and then filling up with the E10. I will continue to use the Ring Free and I will start using a fuel conditioner as well.
BobP
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Water such as condensate in non-ethanol fuel will seperate and stay on the bottom. Throw a bottle of ezorb in there to pull out the water, and run the regular fuel down low.
E10 alcohol can separate when there is water, mixing with the water. E10 has been reproted at times mixed improperly - too much alcohol.
E10 will scrub you fuel system (and the fuel system at your marina and the trucks that deliver it), so change racors after first few tanks of use, and drain bowls often. Carry spare filter.
E10 is great also great at attracting moisture from the air, and also degrading faster, so add fresh fuel often by not carrying so much and rotate tanks, be sure to use a stabilizer like startron or stabil to help maintain it's integrity - use it year round.
Ringfree and equivalents serve a different purpose.
One day the boat manufacturers and engine manufacturers will get together, probably by act of law - Clean Air Act amendments, and come up with a closed fuel system, like our cars have had for over 30 yrs.
Then we all can kiss the days of collecting water in fuel and the problems and $$ products associated with it - goodbye forever.
E10 alcohol can separate when there is water, mixing with the water. E10 has been reproted at times mixed improperly - too much alcohol.
E10 will scrub you fuel system (and the fuel system at your marina and the trucks that deliver it), so change racors after first few tanks of use, and drain bowls often. Carry spare filter.
E10 is great also great at attracting moisture from the air, and also degrading faster, so add fresh fuel often by not carrying so much and rotate tanks, be sure to use a stabilizer like startron or stabil to help maintain it's integrity - use it year round.
Ringfree and equivalents serve a different purpose.
One day the boat manufacturers and engine manufacturers will get together, probably by act of law - Clean Air Act amendments, and come up with a closed fuel system, like our cars have had for over 30 yrs.
Then we all can kiss the days of collecting water in fuel and the problems and $$ products associated with it - goodbye forever.
JUST-IN-TIME
Well-Known Member
BobP said:Water such as condensate in non-ethanol fuel will seperate and stay on the bottom. Throw a bottle of ezorb in there to pull out the water, and run the regular fuel down low.
E10 alcohol can separate when there is water, mixing with the water. E10 has been reproted at times mixed improperly - too much alcohol.
E10 will scrub you fuel system (and the fuel system at your marina and the trucks that deliver it), so change racors after first few tanks of use, and drain bowls often. Carry spare filter.
E10 is great also great at attracting moisture from the air, and also degrading faster, so add fresh fuel often by not carrying so much and rotate tanks, be sure to use a stabilizer like startron or stabil to help maintain it's integrity - use it year round.
Ringfree and equivalents serve a different purpose.
One day the boat manufacturers and engine manufacturers will get together, probably by act of law - Clean Air Act amendments, and come up with a closed fuel system, like our cars have had for over 30 yrs.
Then we all can kiss the days of collecting water in fuel and the problems and $$ products associated with it - goodbye forever.
2010 closed fuel system will be in effect in CA
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
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And I didn't think I'd see it in my lifetime !
It's a very simply system to add, and maintenance free.
It's a very simply system to add, and maintenance free.
ahill
Well-Known Member
I spent some time yesterday discussing ethanol with the service mgr. at my GW dealer. His points are as follows:
1. E 10 is a solvent and cleans old resins, gums etc. out of the fuel system. Hence the need for filter attention. After a few tanks of fuel the system will be cleaned and the remaining issue is water in fuel. Yamaha recommends changing to 10 micron filters. Then change the filters twice once at 10 hrs and once at 20 hrs. If this schedule is followed changing engine mounted filters isn't necessary and injector damage shouldn't occur. I'll err on the side of caution and do an additional filter change.
2. Startron & other additives won't alleviate e10 problems.
3. Run as much non e 10 fuel out before adding e 10.
4. Keep tank full as there is less chance for condensation build up.
5. Use ring free
6. USCG mandated alcohol compatible fuel systems beginning in the early '80's so hose degradation is not a problem for newer boats.
7. Expect WOT rpms to drop by up to 200
8. Power and fuel mileage will diminish
9. These points apply to other mfrs. as well.
He also said a class action suit against US has originated in Calif. with the goal being to exclude marine fuels from e 10 requirement.
He knows of one fuel distributor that will not deliver e 10 due to liability issues.
1. E 10 is a solvent and cleans old resins, gums etc. out of the fuel system. Hence the need for filter attention. After a few tanks of fuel the system will be cleaned and the remaining issue is water in fuel. Yamaha recommends changing to 10 micron filters. Then change the filters twice once at 10 hrs and once at 20 hrs. If this schedule is followed changing engine mounted filters isn't necessary and injector damage shouldn't occur. I'll err on the side of caution and do an additional filter change.
2. Startron & other additives won't alleviate e10 problems.
3. Run as much non e 10 fuel out before adding e 10.
4. Keep tank full as there is less chance for condensation build up.
5. Use ring free
6. USCG mandated alcohol compatible fuel systems beginning in the early '80's so hose degradation is not a problem for newer boats.
7. Expect WOT rpms to drop by up to 200
8. Power and fuel mileage will diminish
9. These points apply to other mfrs. as well.
He also said a class action suit against US has originated in Calif. with the goal being to exclude marine fuels from e 10 requirement.
He knows of one fuel distributor that will not deliver e 10 due to liability issues.