Fell MOB+ vs ACR OLAS Guardian

[Beyond A Wake]

Yes that's right there are three sets of cables united into one bunch going in to kill switch. All encapsulated and integrated into the switch and I don't want to break that up. It is all in one cable splitting to three somewhere closer to motors in the back. It may be that (I'm sure they have) FELL has created a set for triples with the new all electronic controls. Have to take another look and actually get to ask the local dealer what they have delivered on boats here as I got mine used and not from the local dealer.
There are also three hydraulic units for steering, one for each engine directed electronically from steering wheel at helm, so no hydraulic backup (without power) anymore. This is a 2019 and the new ones have all of this now electric and located with the motors so no hydraulic rams back there anymore.

I've had a hard time accepting that we now go out without real backup and all depending heavily on good batteries, a little low on battery power and steering is out........

Modern technology is great as long as it works and when it doesn't we are stuck, not only the non-start when in gear by mistake anymore Now get fault codes and start from there.

Thanks for encouraging me to move forward with this anyway.

H

 

[SkunkBoat]

Another one of those simple projects....

Spliced the ACR Guardian cable to the Suzuki kill switch. Went pretty well. Was able to work on the kitchen table.
Extended the power feed with red & black. Going to run that to the fuse block.
Gray to b/w (thru the plug) and brown to green/white (thru the plug). The Suzuki kill switch itself has two black wires. I opted to connect on that side of the plug.
You must be certain to connect so that when plugged, the Brown connects to Green/white thru the plug.
Purple is unused dead end.
A heads up when testing with a meter... if the Key is off and kill switch is connected to the key switch, the switch will read closed all the time (The Off key closes the circuit)



Used the heat shrink butt connectors that were included in the bag with the screws.
Do you see it? Its gonna stay that way.



Installed the ACR button next to the kill switch. Nice!


Next step...install the box.....



It fell into 265 oblivion!
Arms don't bend and reach that way. There is no access from behind or below.

Got the scope out. I saw a bag of screws halfway down on a ledge. Then the scope battery died and I remembered there was an open Yuengling on my kitchen table.....

 

[SkunkBoat]

so. I saw it on the scope. Its at the bottom. no way to reach it.
Its plastic so a magnet won't help.
Choices are;
Continue to waste time trying to reach it with little hope of getting it out

Cut a hole in the foot rest, grab it, do a half assed patch and cover it with a new piece of black nonskid

Buy another one for $250, connect it and be done

 

[SkunkBoat]

Never surrender! I'm a winner!
found a painful access point in the head. Used a steel snake with an L bend to blindly pull it towards the hole







Stuffed some foam sheet into the crevasse so it won't happen again...

 

[Beyond A Wake]

Decided to order the FEll one as I already have some components for it. I did have a closer look at the kill switch and there are three sets of white and black wires going in to switch and I can splice in with T to them and that should work. Finding a good location for the hole to be drilled is next as I would like it to be visible for crew/passengers to be able to easily override it in an emergency. That means it should be easy to see and for me to instruct what to do if needed.
Ill post picture when done, and having it working.

H

 

[Sardinia306Bimini]

Decided to order the FEll one as I already have some components for it. I did have a closer look at the kill switch and there are three sets of white and black wires going in to switch and I can splice in with T to them and that should work. Finding a good location for the hole to be drilled is next as I would like it to be visible for crew/passengers to be able to easily override it in an emergency. That means it should be easy to see and for me to instruct what to do if needed.
Ill post picture when done, and having it working.

H

The MOB+ is only one piece and need a hole in the dash or a watertight box on the dash (what would look horrible), SkunkBoat has the Guardian what has more options but a external box to install somewhere.

As long you don't need the features the Guardian offers then the MOB+ will just be fine and easier to install.
My MOB+ will go on the dash panel where is space as only the Yamaha gauge and my Garmin 7408 are there.

Chris

 

[Beyond A Wake]

Ok done,
Drilled the 2 1/16 in (52mm) hole with a 2in drill and made it larger with a scratching? Drill bit. An odd tool but that's done. Hooked all three engines up with T connector (blade!!) and made sure I can get to all connections easily when needed. Also to the bypass cap on the Fell Hub.
Tried by starting all engines worked and stopped, fine.
Next day I was heading out and was waiting for some folks, walked away from boat with motors running and fell FOB on my arm. Came back 10 min later and center motor was running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No problem for that day.
So next day I go over to trouble shoot and check the T's and since they are not marked for specific motors it could have been a trial and error effort. Luckily it seemed like one connector blade was a little higher than the others so I just pinched it down a little and now all work. Mission accomplished but further tests will follow for how long the range is before they turn off. Need to be able to walk on dock around boat to cast off and not lose the power while doing that, or leaving fob next to helm for that time....
SO all good for now.
H

 

[SkunkBoat]

Ok done,
Drilled the 2 1/16 in (52mm) hole with a 2in drill and made it larger with a scratching? Drill bit. An odd tool but that's done. Hooked all three engines up with T connector (blade!!) and made sure I can get to all connections easily when needed. Also to the bypass cap on the Fell Hub.
Tried by starting all engines worked and stopped, fine.
Next day I was heading out and was waiting for some folks, walked away from boat with motors running and fell FOB on my arm. Came back 10 min later and center motor was running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No problem for that day.
So next day I go over to trouble shoot and check the T's and since they are not marked for specific motors it could have been a trial and error effort. Luckily it seemed like one connector blade was a little higher than the others so I just pinched it down a little and now all work. Mission accomplished but further tests will follow for how long the range is before they turn off. Need to be able to walk on dock around boat to cast off and not lose the power while doing that, or leaving fob next to helm for that time....
SO all good for now.
H

You mean like trailer T splices? HEHEHE ...I have some but didn't have the balls to do it. I twisted and crimped and heatshrunk. (so when mine don't work I have to cut them all apart and start over with shorter wires.....)


They make nicer ones now. At least give the appearance of professionalism...

 

[Beyond A Wake]

You mean like trailer T splices? HEHEHE ...I have some but didn't have the balls to do it. I twisted and crimped and heatshrunk. (so when mine don't work I have to cut them all apart and start over with shorter wires.....)
View attachment 33136

They make nicer ones now. At least give the appearance of professionalism...
View attachment 33137

Yes that's what I used...... the new ones would have been better, I can still replace them. The challenge was as always access to it all and starting to peel the wires didn't appeal to me in the limited space. It would probably have been a little safer but this is not a deal breaker right now.
I need to get some of the "nicer" ones to have some.
H

 

[SkunkBoat]

Yes that's what I used...... the new ones would have been better, I can still replace them. The challenge was as always access to it all and starting to peel the wires didn't appeal to me in the limited space. It would probably have been a little safer but this is not a deal breaker right now.
I need to get some of the "nicer" ones to have some.
H

If I wasn't able to easily remove it and work on the kitchen table, I would have used those.

 

[Beyond A Wake]

Ok went and looked at some other splicers/connectors and found some I thought would work. Like the ones in picture below.
When I got home I did my diligence test to make sure they would not be magnetic, well they are. So the conductor material is magnetic and that is no good so no use for this application. The ones I used are not magnetic so at least on that front they are better but the risk of them cutting the wire is always there and then at least these could be the emergency fix until I come up with something better. Like stripping a section and joining it and bake it all in somehow. But hard to do in the space allowed.

This is a Ideal In-Sure push in wire connector 3Port

 

[SkunkBoat]

Ok went and looked at some other splicers/connectors and found some I thought would work. Like the ones in picture below.
When I got home I did my diligence test to make sure they would not be magnetic, well they are. So the conductor material is magnetic and that is no good so no use for this application. The ones I used are not magnetic so at least on that front they are better but the risk of them cutting the wire is always there and then at least these could be the emergency fix until I come up with something better. Like stripping a section and joining it and bake it all in somehow. But hard to do in the space allowed.
View attachment 33168
This is a Ideal In-Sure push in wire connector 3Port

That might be for solid wire in houses. I know there are new push connectors to replace wire nuts.


These work well in tight spaces when you need to crimp. Like a crimped wire nut. Crimp much easier than a butt connector and wires are also twisted together for really good connection.

 

[seasick]

wire nuts should never be used in a marine application ( well in some very small gauge applications, maybe).
The crimp style shown above are OK. What is important is to use marine grade connectors. That means plated usually and adhesive lined (if possible)
I have not seen newish WAGO style push connectors spec'd for marine applications

 

[Beyond A Wake]

All good comments which I agree with.
the push ins I've seen used in telecom small wire applications. They are specified for solid 20-12 AWG and stranded 16-12 <=19 str (18 for 7 strand) stranded tinned 18-14 AWG. Needed magnifying glass to read that on bag.
The marine environment in S FL is really harsh so no shortcuts should be made and when I find a good solution to my case I will replace what I now put in there. The round bulbs are interesting but suspect they are magnetic, need to check.

 

[SkunkBoat]

All good comments which I agree with.
the push ins I've seen used in telecom small wire applications. They are specified for solid 20-12 AWG and stranded 16-12 <=19 str (18 for 7 strand) stranded tinned 18-14 AWG. Needed magnifying glass to read that on bag.
The marine environment in S FL is really harsh so no shortcuts should be made and when I find a good solution to my case I will replace what I now put in there. The round bulbs are interesting but suspect they are magnetic, need to check.

just cut one apart. Not magnetic. Looks like some kind of tin alloy or maybe aluminum. Not tinned copper.

 

[ROBERTH]

I have the FELL system and it works fine. Install was simple and compatible with my twin engines. Did have issues with antenna reaching to front and back through the cabin I guess, so got an extended antenna and mounted on top of my helm. I do have issues though when standing at the back of the transom with motors running and it will sometimes kill the engines. They were good about replacing the hub, but still have the issue sometimes. It seems it might have something to do with the motors interference which is a bummer since the intent is to keep it working until someone falls overboard.