First Outing in new to me 2003 Seafarer 228 - Heavy feeling stern

jbsman099

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Took my recently purchased 228 out on Chesapeake Bay today. Ran well, handled well, easy up on plane, all the equipment worked perfectly. Like the boat, but throughout had just a feeling that the stern feels awfully heavy. Equipped with Yamaha F225 4 stroke on the transom bracket and full swim platform. Fuel tanks 2/3 full, live well dry. Trimmed up and on plane the bracket creates a lot of wake/spray and the bottom of the motor almost looks like it is at the water level.
Is this a common feel with this model boat/motor combination, or is there something I should check into? Bilge of course is bone dry and no signs of water intrusion in the transom. Any info on this issue in particular, or for that matter any other Seafarer 228 tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
 

Blaugrana

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Did you use the trim tabs at all??? What level did you trim the engine to?

take some pics of what your boat looks like sitting in the water, specifically the bracket and scuppers

I use a combination of the trim tabs and engine trim to lower the bow.Engine trim is around 3 or so.
 

jbsman099

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Yes, I trimmed it up with the motor tilt trim and the trim tabs. I'll give it another run this Tuesday (6 Apr) and also take pics of the bracket and scuppers and post them then. Thanks.
 

Ky Grady

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Check the bracket, may have water in it. The F225 is not a powerhouse by any means. It's adequate power for the 228. A 4 blade prop will help too.
 

CharlesM

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Did you by chance run out of Stoney Creek this afternoon?
 

Don Davis

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I have a 1999 228 Seafarer with a 30 inch Suzuki DF250. I had to modify the pod with a bolt on bracket to lift the motor but due to a crappy install with a local Marine shop I now have to raise the motor about 2 inches as I get V spray from too much leg in the water. The Suzuki is awesome but raising the motor should increase mileage, remove the V spray and lighten the steering on plane. Possibly check your engine height.
 

jbsman099

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Check the bracket, may have water in it. The F225 is not a powerhouse by any means. It's adequate power for the 228. A 4 blade prop will help too.
I wish I'd thought of opening the bracket before I put it in. Will definitely have to look at that.
 

Ted R

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My bracket of the same vintage on my 232 leaks, which I plan to remedy this month, so good idea to check to see if full of water.
 

efx

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What’s the engine size in length 25” or 30”? I almost always see engines mounted too low. I had a 228 with a 225 evinrude ficht and it’s the best riding boat I have ever owned, but it took some tab and getting the engine the right height.
 

glacierbaze

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Don Davis, what was the reasoning behind putting a 30 inch motor on a 228G? Usually, you want that motor up, and 30" starts to prop off 5 inches lower.
Mine feels about the same as the OP, if running anything other than on full plane. At slow speeds, I feel that the cowling gasket spends way too much time at the water line.EA2F2F03-A3F1-47DF-B78B-45D64C69C5F8.jpeg
 
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Timcan

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Here is my 1999 GW 228 sitting in the water with about 100 gal. of fuel.
Don Davis how does the Grady handle the weight
of the Suzuki? I’m thinking of re-powering and doing some research on different engines.
 

glacierbaze

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question, are the Grady brackets a solid plate where they attach to the transom, other than the bolt holes, or is that an opening that we have to hope to keep sealed?
Also, on the motor end of the bracket, when changing motor height, do you have to get inside the bracket for the bottom bolts, or are those nuts captured in place?
 

efx

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That port side looks lower than expected. It could be wind and tension on that line. We need better photos.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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Check engine height . Get a 4 blade prop. The bracket is hollow . Honestly you should tap on it and if sounds tinny or has a resonate drum sound you likely don't have water in it. Do that first before unscrewing the drain plug. If it's dry , don't mess with it, meaning the plug. KY has his motor on the 3rd bolt on the motor from the top and the top on the bracket as he has the same motor. Good luck and enjoy the boat .
 

Don Davis

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Don Davis, what was the reasoning behind putting a 30 inch motor on a 228G? Usually, you want that motor up, and 30" starts to prop off 5 inches lower.
Mine feels about the same as the OP, if running anything other than on full plane. At slow speeds, I feel that the cowling gasket spends way too much time at the water line.View attachment 19828
I ended up finding a used low hour Suzuki DF250 for $10,500 with a 30 inch leg so I bought it as I had to modify the pod anyway from the previous owner hitting something and tearing the outboard off. The Suzuki has been great but just need to raise it a bit as mentioned, so far very impressed with the engine, no complaints. Here is a couple recent pictures on the lake from this past December here on Vancouver Island
 

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dude23455

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question, are the Grady brackets a solid plate where they attach to the transom, other than the bolt holes, or is that an opening that we have to hope to keep sealed?
Also, on the motor end of the bracket, when changing motor height, do you have to get inside the bracket for the bottom bolts, or are those nuts captured in place?
mine was open to the transom. 1993 sailfish 252.
the lower holes for the motor bolts we threaded.
 

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Triton2300

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If you take a straight edge off the bottom of the keel (the lowest point in the back of the boat) and run it back past the lower unit, it should be even with the anti cavitation plate. If you are running on a plane you should be able to look over the back and see the anti cavitation plate even or a little above the water. If its lower you need to raise the engine. You lose speed and efficiency. Another way to check is tape a piece of string to the bottom of the keel. Place a line level on the string and run it past the lower unit.
A moisture meter is used by surveyors to check for moisture in the transom. I think the older Gradys have wood in them.