Found My Grady

leeccoll

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Great find, so clean as others said.

Lucky man! But you put in the time ;)
 
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Mustang65fbk

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Definitely a very clean looking boat. Even though it's only a 2008 and only 14 years old now, a lot of people neglect their boats/cars/homes and just about anything else. Glad to hear the previous owner took good care of the boat and yes, it looks like it's practically brand new. Was $5,400 the cheapest price that you were quoted from a shipping company? I do like that the boat doesn't have the bottom paint on it, I wish mine didn't as I think it looks much cleaner/better looking without it.
 

Halfhitch

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Thanks for that warning - I have not used these before and did not realize they were for maintenance in static conditions only. They appeared to be sturdier than the tilt down brackets on the motor and the seller had them when he transported the boat to/from the marina for the sea trial. Appreciate the tip!
KEZ, I was evidently not clear about what I tried to convey. The aftermarket supports that slide over the rams are good but the flip down brackets built onto the engine are what I was saying are for maintenance only. Read in your owners manual about the warning by Yamaha. Here's a link to the ones I have that work well.....

https://www.partsvu.com/blog/transom_saver_motor_support_are_they_needed/


Read page 65 in this manual.

https://outboards.yamaha-owners-manuals.com/om/LIT-18626-10-80.pdf
 
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Ky Grady

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Congrats on the new boat!!!!

What Halfhitch said is correct. Those supports you are using are fine, look like the TH Marine Motor Stik ones. The ones Half gave you a link to might be better due to the bigger rubber snubber that it has, a little more forgiving. That tilt down bracket is only used for service or non movement support, it wasn't designed for travel, especially over long distance and less than desirable roads.
 

KEZ

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Definitely a very clean looking boat. Even though it's only a 2008 and only 14 years old now, a lot of people neglect their boats/cars/homes and just about anything else. Glad to hear the previous owner took good care of the boat and yes, it looks like it's practically brand new. Was $5,400 the cheapest price that you were quoted from a shipping company? I do like that the boat doesn't have the bottom paint on it, I wish mine didn't as I think it looks much cleaner/better looking without it.
I had a few other bids for transportation and a couple of them were a bit cheaper - seemed to run $1.60 - $1.90 per mile - it was almost 3000 miles for my boat ship. The $5400 bid came from a guy who transports nothing but boats and talking to him - he really knew his business well, so I felt comfortable with him doing the shipping.
 
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KEZ

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Congrats on the new boat!!!!

What Halfhitch said is correct. Those supports you are using are fine, look like the TH Marine Motor Stik ones. The ones Half gave you a link to might be better due to the bigger rubber snubber that it has, a little more forgiving. That tilt down bracket is only used for service or non movement support, it wasn't designed for travel, especially over long distance and less than desirable roads.
Thanks again for the clarification Halfhitch and Ky - I am pretty sure the ones I have are Motor Stik and they do slip over the rams, I will check the brand when I go back to the shop. I thought I remembered the marine surveyor cautioning not to use the flip down brackets. I gotta say, the tilt down bracket I have to support the 1994 Johnson 150 2-stroke is much more sturdy than the tabs on the Yamaha and it is a much smaller and lighter motor. One of the things I DON"T like about the motor supports I have is they don't seem to be long enough - the lower unit is still pretty close to the pavement when I have them installed. Any ideas on whether longer ones are advisable? Seems like that would get the lower unit higher, but possibly give it more leverage to bounce over bumps.
 

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KEZ, I believe there are different lengths available. I had the same problem when I used the "MY Wedge" supports on a Striper I had. I just made some spacers the correct thickness and screwed them onto the bottom of the tubes to get the skag high enough.
 
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glacierbaze

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In the last 2 or 3 pics, in post #10, it looks like your skeg will hit pavement before the motor is all the way down. If that's the case, you might want to think about raising those bunks to where you have at least a few inches clearance.
If your skeg touches the pavement, you are guaranteed to one day, either embarrass yourself going forward, or possibly do some real damage backing up.
 

hooked on Grady

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I don't trailer my boats all over but a friend of mine has for years. all his boats have been trailered up and down the coast and he has always had some type of engine support bracket that went from the trailer cross member to the lower unit with a u shaped rubbered coated seat, if you will, for the lower unit to rest against. it was used on his Smoker craft aluminum as well as his whaler. Not sure who made it but it sure was worth it he always took care of his stuff and had the boats a real long time with no issues. wish I knew who made it, I believe it was aluminum.
 

KEZ

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In the last 2 or 3 pics, in post #10, it looks like your skeg will hit pavement before the motor is all the way down. If that's the case, you might want to think about raising those bunks to where you have at least a few inches clearance.
If your skeg touches the pavement, you are guaranteed to one day, either embarrass yourself going forward, or possibly do some real damage backing up.
Yes the bunks are low and your caution is a good one - I did embarrass myself with my first ski boat many decades ago, so I am always VERY careful about getting that motor up as soon as it is on the trailer! I kind of like the fact that the boat sits low on this trailer - with a 2WD truck I am careful about how far down the ramp I have to go to launch/load the boat, and the lower bunk height helps with that. Also have witnessed several people launching boats with no drain plug so I am pretty anal about that, too!
 

KEZ

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I don't trailer my boats all over but a friend of mine has for years. all his boats have been trailered up and down the coast and he has always had some type of engine support bracket that went from the trailer cross member to the lower unit with a u shaped rubbered coated seat, if you will, for the lower unit to rest against. it was used on his Smoker craft aluminum as well as his whaler. Not sure who made it but it sure was worth it he always took care of his stuff and had the boats a real long time with no issues. wish I knew who made it, I believe it was aluminum.
Never seen one for the big motors, but I do have one for the kicker on the Sunbird. With the bracket on the 228, that would have to be a LOOONNNGG support bracket. I am lucky that boat ramps are 15 and 30 miles away, may drive 1-2 hours north or south occasionally, and roads are pretty good around here.
 

Mustang65fbk

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I had a few other bids for transportation and a couple of them were a bit cheaper - seemed to run $1.60 - $1.90 per mile - it was almost 3000 miles for my boat ship. The $5400 bid came from a guy who transports nothing but boats and talking to him - he really knew his business well, so I felt comfortable with him doing the shipping.
That's pretty much in the ballpark with regards to pricing when I've contacted Uship over the last several years to get shipping costs for my previous boats. The cheapest one that I ever got was my very first boat in June of 2017 and they quoted me at right around $3,500 to ship it from Maryland to Seattle. At the time, I had more time than money and figured I could do it for half that price and so I did the roundtrip trek like you just did. And I did do it for about half the cost, 7 days roundtrip with a couple of days putting in 1,200 miles a day of driving and the added up total cost was just under $1,800. The most expensive shipping quote that I ever got was just over $7k though, which I thought was a bit absurd. If you've got the desire, ability and time to drive the boat back, or even do the roundtrip, I say by all means go for it as it's a beautiful drive across the country, especially if the weather is cooperative and if you've never done a cross country road trip before. It seemed like most shipping companies I've talked to have always been at least 2+ weeks out, sometimes even closer to 3, and then it would take them another week on top of that to get the boat from the east coast to the west coast. And at the time, it was right before the king salmon season opener, so I didn't want to wait 3+ weeks to get my boat. If you have the time, money and don't want to do the drive then having it shipped is definitely the way to go. I put 3,009 miles on the U-Haul truck that I rented when I gave it back to the local drop off location. Congrats again!
 
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KEZ

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Couple more suggestions if you are transporting your own boat that I forgot to mention:

  • Have a good serviceable spare. And lug wrench and jack that will work with the trailer. Even better, buy a complete hub assembly and bearing/seal to take as a spare. If you get out in the middle of nowhere, it could mean the difference between a couple hours delay vs. a couple days delay waiting for parts.
  • Stop every 200 miles. Check the hubs to see that they are cool (should be able to hold your hand on them) and they aren't puking grease. Check the tires for signs of unusual wear. Check the lights and any play in the hitch.
  • Check the winch strap before you set out - if it looks old, replace it. They are not expensive and they will snap especially if they are sun damaged. Definitely have a safety chain backup.
  • Watch the boat when you go over rough spots for any signs it is moving on the trailer (great to be able to see it in your mirrors).
 
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Ocean_wanderer

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View attachment 24599
I don't have pics of the inside from my own camera, so will post a few from the listing. This boat looked super clean, and the survey inspection verified that.

View attachment 24600
This is what peaked my interest in this boat - the compartment shots looked so clean is looked like as-new condition.View attachment 24601
T-top has deck lights and TACO outrigger bases. Came with poles and canvass to make a sun shade extension over the deck. One downside - there were no curtains/helm enclosure included but it is a factory T-top so getting that should not be too hard.




Great looking boat in excellent shape! I just went through a similar journey with my 223 purchase. Two questions here; the pompanette captain chair (spelling) arm rest cover in your boat is in great shape....Mine is very worn and sun cracked.....Any idea where I can find a replacement? I had considered just removing the rubber covering and leaving the bare arm rest. I realize the pompanette chair is nice (and expensive), but honestly don't want to spend a lot of money fixing it when I can just purchase a new plastic one from Todd or Springfield for around $150........Would love some advice here....Also, I noticed that these photos have the POP Yachts logo....I am glad you had a good experience with them, but, in my 1+ year of looking, I found them to be so over-priced with used boats it was almost criminal...
 

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Great looking boat in excellent shape! I just went through a similar journey with my 223 purchase. Two questions here; the pompanette captain chair (spelling) arm rest cover in your boat is in great shape....Mine is very worn and sun cracked.....Any idea where I can find a replacement? I had considered just removing the rubber covering and leaving the bare arm rest. I realize the pompanette chair is nice (and expensive), but honestly don't want to spend a lot of money fixing it when I can just purchase a new plastic one from Todd or Springfield for around $150........Would love some advice here....Also, I noticed that these photos have the POP Yachts logo....I am glad you had a good experience with them, but, in my 1+ year of looking, I found them to be so over-priced with used boats it was almost criminal...
Regarding Captain Chair armrests - I looked at several boats that had lost the covering on the arm rests and also found on a couple of forums what people are doing to remedy that. There seemed to be two modes of action - some had covers made that slide over the arms but they are apparently pretty expensive - $165 for a pair. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3539231010...0WID2QiCy3kAI_1Qw4LdSCuAiImYb58MaAoqgEALw_wcB

Another suggestion was to use a pair of white tube socks. But I have also seen photos and descriptions where someone spray coated them with a plastic material. Not sure where you find that, or how well it holds up in the sun and salt. Also, it may be hard to find the coating in white color that matches well with the GW cushion color, if that is important to you.

Regarding buying a boat through a broker - yes, you are probably going to pay a little more, but there are some advantages. The biggest pluses in my mind are:
1) The brokerage will have good paperwork for the offer, acceptance and purchase contract and take care of a lot of the filing with the state DMV to do things like get you the temporary trailer plates. The T&Cs in the paperwork should protect the buyer and the seller against some of the pitfalls you might experience buying without a broker in the middle.
2) My broker also served as the escrow agent. They had a bank that accepted the funds transfer ahead of the sea trial so that on the day of the trial, if I accepted the boat, they could close the deal the same day and I could drive off with the boat in tow. If I declined the purchase, the funds were to be transferred back to my account. This is convenient if you are picking the boat up out of state, and don't want to being for hotel room nights while you are waiting for papers or going to the DMV yourself. In FL, the seller has to keep the trailer plate and turn it in, and you need a temporary plate to move the boat on public roads.

The minuses:
1) The cost - not sure what the seller paid the broker but I am sure it was part of the reason he was pretty rigid on the price. I also had to pay a $495 fee for cover paper processing, so they made money off both of us. Was it worth it? Not sure I can answer that yes or no.
2) Number of people involved - good grief I had a stream of people that handled the deal. There was the contact person on the listing, he handed it off to another selling agent (later I found out it was just another sales agent who sniped me from his colleague). Then a third person came in to help with all the paperwork. When I scheduled the sea trial, I was introduced to the selling agent who would make sure the inspection would go well. Then I was contacted by his boss to make sure everything went smoothly. Sure seemed like a lot of people needed to complete one transaction.
3) Frustrations: Not sure if it was miscommunication on my part or their part but there were several things that were just frustrating and fully preventable with a little effort on the front end. Things like having to pay a sales tax on the TRAILER, in order to get a temp plate. Could not seem to get an answer from anyone as to why FL does it this way, and what happens to those funds. The next "surprise" was they needed proof of insurance for the tow vehicle to issue a temp tag for the trailer. Found out the card I had in the truck was expired, so had to find a wifi hotspot, download a new insurance card, screenshot it and send it to them. This could have been prevented if they had requested the proof of insurance ahead of time, or at least warned me that they would need it. Then it took quite a few hours to get the final paperwork and I had to find a FEDEX store to get it printed out to put the temp tags on the trailer. I ended up taking the chance and moving the trailer from the sellers house to my hotel (about 6 miles) without a tag.

To be fair to the brokerage, I think they try to guide the sellers on what a reasonable price might be, but not sure they usually listen. Brokerage is going to want a reasonable price so they can get the boat sold. But the seller will probably have their own idea of price and add the commission on top of that. My broker did offer suggestions on making offers to negotiate the price, and I did get the boat a little lower than asking, but I am sure that ultimately I paid the broker commission on this boat with the selling price I finally agreed to pay.

So in summary - if you are driving out of state and sitting in a motel room while negotiating a deal, having a brokerage probably helps. Certainly helps if you are buying the boat sight unseen and shipping it - gotta have a marine surveyor in that case, but the brokerage probably offers you some fallback if they want to protect their reputation. Hopefully they have gone through the boat themselves and represent it accurately, would be on your side to resolve any issues that come up.
 
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Ocean_wanderer

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Regarding Captain Chair armrests - I looked at several boats that had lost the covering on the arm rests and also found on a couple of forums what people are doing to remedy that. There seemed to be two modes of action - some had covers made that slide over the arms but they are apparently pretty expensive - $165 for a pair. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3539231010...0WID2QiCy3kAI_1Qw4LdSCuAiImYb58MaAoqgEALw_wcB

Another suggestion was to use a pair of white tube socks. But I have also seen photos and descriptions where someone spray coated then with a plastic material. Not sure where you find that, or how well it holds up in the sun and salt.

Regarding buying a boat through a broker - yes, you are probably going to pay a little more, but there are some advantages. The biggest pluses in my mind are:
1) The brokerage will have good paperwork for the offer, acceptance and purchase contract and take care of a lot of the filing with the state DMV to do things like get you the temporary trailer plates. The T&Cs in the paperwork should protect the buyer and the seller against some of the pitfalls you might experience buying without a broker in the middle.
2) My broker also served as the escrow agent. They had a bank that accepted the funds transfer ahead of the sea trial so that on the day of the trial, if I accepted the boat, they could close the deal the same day and I could drive off with the boat in tow. This is convenient if you are picking the boat up out of state, and don't want to being for hotel room nights while you are waiting for papers or going to the DMV yourself. In FL, the seller has to keep the trailer plate and turn it in, and you need a temporary plate to move the boat on public roads.

The minuses:
1) The cost - not sure what the seller paid the broker but I am sure it was part of the reason he was pretty rigid on the price. I also had to pay a $495 fee for cover paper processing, so they made money off both of us. Was it worth it? Not sure I can answer that yes or no.
2) Number of people involved - good grief I had a stream of people that handled the deal. There was the contact person on the listing, he handed it off to another selling agent (later I found out it was just another sales agent who sniped me from his colleague). Then a third person came in to help with all the paperwork. When I scheduled the sea trial, I was introduced to the selling agent who would make sure the inspection would go well. Then I was contacted by his boss to make sure everything went smoothly. Sure seemed like a lot of people needed to complete one transaction.
3) Frustrations: Not sure if it was miscommunication on my part or their part but there were several things that were just frustrating and fully preventable with a little effort on the front end. Things like having to pay a sales tax on the TRAILER, in order to get a temp plate. Could not seem to get an answer from anyone as to why FL does it this way, and what happens to those funds. The next "surprise" was they needed proof of insurance for the tow vehicle to issue a temp tag for the trailer. Found out the card I had in the truck was expired, so had to find a wifi hotspot, download a new insurance card, screenshot it and send it to them. Then it took quite a few hours to get the final paperwork and I had to find a FEDEX store to get it printed out to put the temp tags on the trailer. I ended up taking the chance and moving the trailer from the sellers house to my hotel (about 6 miles) without a tag.

To be fair to the brokerage, I think they try to guide the sellers on what a reasonable price might be, but not sure they usually listen. Brokerage is going to want a reasonable price so they can get the boat sold. But the seller will probably have their own idea of price and add the commission on top of that. My broker did offer suggestions on making offers to negotiate the price, and I did get the boat a little lower than asking, but I am sure that ultimately I paid the broker commission on this boat with the selling price I finally agreed to pay.

So in summary - if you are driving out of state and sitting in a motel room while negotiating a deal, having a brokerage probably helps. Certainly helps if you are buying the boat sight unseen and shipping it - gotta have a marine surveyor in that case, but the brokerage probably offers you some fallback if they want to protect their reputation. Hopefully they have gone through the boat themselves and represent it accurately, would be on your side to resolve any issues that come up.
Thank you for this thorough explanation....Makes sense to me....Kudos to you on your penmanship of sharing your journey...I enjoyed reading your story and all the info you shared.....I appreciated it as I had just been trough the same thing....I bought my used 223 through a dealership in Fairhope, AL. They were brokering the boat for a customer...