I bought my trailer separately from my boat hence it wasn’t setup by a Grady dealer. I’m concerned it isn’t correct. The tongue seems heavy and the winch/bow stop roller seems low. If anyone has this boat, can you tell be the distance from the stern to the center of your two axles. And ideally a picture of your winch setup? I’ve attached a photo of my winch post. I didn’t get the boat fully up to the roller as the strap seems to pull down on the eye making it near impossible to pull fully forward with putting my truck nearly in the water. It was much closer when I loaded it but at the top of the ramp, I let off the tension and the boat settles on the bucks rocking back/up away from the post. Can’t imaging all that tension/weight on the bow eye is good, especially while towing.
Freedom 215 Trailer setup
- Thread starter spc337
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Hookup1
GreatGrady Captain
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My roller is over the top of the bow eye. The winch is underneath and "lifts" the bow instead of pulling it down.
I don't particularly like that assembly but try sliding the winch /bow roller arm up about 4 or 5 inches. You want the winch cable to pull straight forward or a bit upward. I think the cable should route under the bow roller.
Also be aware that it is common to not snug up the hull to the bow roller until the trailer is on relatively flat ground. Leave some space between the keel and the roller. You do not want the cable pulling the hull up or down but rather straight into the roller.
Here’s a pic of my 215. I’ve since sold it so can’t provide measurements. It was set up by the dealer “bow high” on the trailer which helped with the angle of the hull for launching and retrieving.
As others mentioned, simply slide the winch up higher and put the strap under the roller. At that point, that's the best you can do.
Why do you think there is too much tongue weight? Did you measure it? Do that. Shoot for somwhere around 300lb to 400b and you'll be fine - that amount of weight will be plenty for a small boat.
Post a pic of your boat on the trailer from the side. But, "roughly" speaking, that "Grady dip" in the shear line of the boat will generally line up with the middle of the two axles.
Why do you think there is too much tongue weight? Did you measure it? Do that. Shoot for somwhere around 300lb to 400b and you'll be fine - that amount of weight will be plenty for a small boat.
Post a pic of your boat on the trailer from the side. But, "roughly" speaking, that "Grady dip" in the shear line of the boat will generally line up with the middle of the two axles.
Appreciate the responses. I did raise the winch so the roller is just above the eye. However, launching and loading is still a problem and I suspect it is the bunks. When launching, as the stern begins to float and I start to release the winch, the bow drops downward to the point it nearly contacts the which handle. Loading is the same problem and as I start to pull up the ramp, the bow wants to rise and there is way too much strain on the bow eye. When I release the winch to relieve this the boat settles on the bunks and the bow is now 8-10inches back from the roller.
Looking at the photo above, I see the trailer has 4 bunks, I don’t have the two nearest the keel which I suspect is allow the bow to meet the trailer too low in the water. I can play with how deep I’m retrieving the boat but I’m not convinced that is the problem. I have seen some trailers, albeit with larger Gradys (ie 330), which have a low bow catch separate from the winch post which doesn’t have a roller as it is set back further. Let me know about the keel bunks of if a low bow stop is worth looking at.
Thanks
Sean
Looking at the photo above, I see the trailer has 4 bunks, I don’t have the two nearest the keel which I suspect is allow the bow to meet the trailer too low in the water. I can play with how deep I’m retrieving the boat but I’m not convinced that is the problem. I have seen some trailers, albeit with larger Gradys (ie 330), which have a low bow catch separate from the winch post which doesn’t have a roller as it is set back further. Let me know about the keel bunks of if a low bow stop is worth looking at.
Thanks
Sean
Dug up another pic that may help you.
I had Charleston Trailer build this for a Freedom 225, so very similar to the 215.
Harder to notice than the front bunks, the main bunks are also “pidgeon towed”, I.e. the bunks are closer together towards the bow than the stern. This was set up to accommodate the 225’s SV2 hull.
My understanding of your launch/retrieve adventures, you may be backing in too far when retrieving. Also, adding front bunks will help center and support the hull, providing you have cross rails where needed to bolt those brackets.
Pic of your set up will help.
I had Charleston Trailer build this for a Freedom 225, so very similar to the 215.
Harder to notice than the front bunks, the main bunks are also “pidgeon towed”, I.e. the bunks are closer together towards the bow than the stern. This was set up to accommodate the 225’s SV2 hull.
My understanding of your launch/retrieve adventures, you may be backing in too far when retrieving. Also, adding front bunks will help center and support the hull, providing you have cross rails where needed to bolt those brackets.
Pic of your set up will help.
I will continue to play with my depth on launch/retrieve. Those forward keel bunks look like the answer as it will prevent the bow for dipping too low regardless of how far I back in. I’ll post a photo shortly. Not sure I have a cross member to make that work on mine.
Ignore the winch height, I lowered it after raise it so the roller was just above the bow eye. It was precariously too close to the winch & handle so adjusted it down.
I don’t think I can add the lower bunks as my trailer doesn’t have a cross member far enough forward. Hence on retrieving, the bow just dives in the gap forward of the bunk / winch and there isn’t anything to support it. My bunks start basically below the console.
I don’t think I can add the lower bunks as my trailer doesn’t have a cross member far enough forward. Hence on retrieving, the bow just dives in the gap forward of the bunk / winch and there isn’t anything to support it. My bunks start basically below the console.
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From evertything you wrote (which was a good description), it sounds like you're in the water too deep. You don't need the stern to actually float... just sort of barely begin to rock a bit.
Change out the carpet to plastic and you'll make sliding on/off a whole lot easier.
Change out the carpet to plastic and you'll make sliding on/off a whole lot easier.
What are the main bunks made of? Are these after market or some just that manufacturer offers?
Those aluminum main bunks are standard fare for Charleston Trailer. They’re typically used on boat lifts and their advantages apply to boat trailer use, too. They don’t rot nor float.
After looking at your pics I think you could benefit from new main bunks and brackets, whether you go the aluminum route or make/buy wooden ones.
Worth noting, not only were the main bunks pidgeon towed, they were also higher towards the bow than the stern which helps.
I’d be inclined to try some new main bunks on your trailer and maybe add a roller or pvc “V” to protect the front cross member and see how that works.
After looking at your pics I think you could benefit from new main bunks and brackets, whether you go the aluminum route or make/buy wooden ones.
Worth noting, not only were the main bunks pidgeon towed, they were also higher towards the bow than the stern which helps.
I’d be inclined to try some new main bunks on your trailer and maybe add a roller or pvc “V” to protect the front cross member and see how that works.