Freedom 225 CommandLink (6Y9) Alternatives?

[Gulffishin]

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased a 225 Freedom with a Yamaha F250 and commandlink (6Y9) gauge. The gauge is pretty sunburned and I’d rather spend $ on a MFD than fixing the Yamaha gauge.

Has anyone had any luck fitting a MFD in the 6Y9’s stock location? It looks like the Garmin GPSMAP 743 MFD is close to fitting, but dont want to booger up my dash trying to make it fit if something else fits better.

 

[DennisG01]

Unless someone with the exact same dash (sometimes it changes over the model years) can respond with this specific answer, your best bet it to simply take some accurate measurements.

But... you didn't mention your model year.

What other sensors/etc will you need to purchase and what wiring adaptations will you need to do?

Have you looked at gauge saver dot com for repair? It's probably only somewhere around $100.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Have you looked at gauge saver dot com for repair? It's probably only somewhere around $100.

This!

Chris

 

[Gulffishin]

Unless someone with the exact same dash (sometimes it changes over the model years) can respond with this specific answer, your best bet it to simply take some accurate measurements.

But... you didn't mention your model year.

What other sensors/etc will you need to purchase and what wiring adaptations will you need to do?

Have you looked at gauge saver dot com for repair? It's probably only somewhere around $100.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Year is 2013. Measurements look like it could fit, but it’ll be crowded… guess I could buy a suncover for the Garmin and velcro it on the dash and get a good idea if how it would look..

I contacted GaugeSavers, —said it would be about $350 if the LCD needs to be replaced, but I have not sent them the gauge for actual quote. Not sure what all is involved with fixing it ( photo attached—cant see it at all in direct sun, but can see it a little in low light)

Not sure whatall is needed for the Garmin, but if I go that route I’d buy whatever is needed to link everything up on NMEA 2000.

 

[DennisG01]

My apologies on the price - I had my gauge (an older style, smaller one) in mind that I had done by Gauge Saver.

Download the manual for the Garmin unit that you have in mind. In there will be a template that you can either print out or just duplicate on a sheet of paper. Use that to compare to the available space you have to cut a hole. You'll want to remove the panel to check the space available behind the panel - and/or the possible need to cut away some glass, too.

 

[SkunkBoat]

As Denis said, get installation template on Garmin site. Here are screen shots of 7" + 9" but on their site you can Print in actual size to get your real template.

https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?partNumber=010-02365-61&tab=manuals

If you can fit a 9 get a 9. This is an "oppurtunity" to upgrade your chart plotter and sonar. Your Garmin in the picture GPS4208? is old news.
If you're gonna spend money, get something for it. Be prepared to cut fiberglass...


Garmin has J1939 port for Yamaha engine data. You may need an adapter from the existing Yamaha plug to a J1939 connector.
J1939 is different than NMEA2000. It has detailed engine data.
Unfortunately, your old GPS4000/5000 did not have J1939.

 

[seasick]

If you want to display engine info on the Garmin MFD, you will need to add a NMEA200 gateway to to be able to talk to Command Link data.
You will also need a NMEA 200 backbone network if you don't already have one

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

If you want to display engine info on the Garmin MFD

I consider that as a not very good solution if MFD is used for what supposed to do, charts, radar, depth sounder.
A viable option would be to use a small MFD as engine display only, but on the end it's not that much cheaper than a original gauge. Many Suzuki owners use the Simrad Go9 for that purpose.
I have engine data on my MFD's and use it some times to see more engine data than on the outboard gauge, but i would never go out without a working original gauge as i need the MFD's space for navigation and fishing purposes.
I had a 2016 Garmin 9xx on the tower of my Venture 34 and the engine display literally sucked, so you may check how the engine data is displayed.

Chris

 

[Gulffishin]

I consider that as a not very good solution if MFD is used for what supposed to do, charts, radar, depth sounder.
A viable option would be to use a small MFD as engine display only, but on the end it's not that much cheaper than a original gauge. Many Suzuki owners use the Simrad Go9 for that purpose.
I have engine data on my MFD's and use it some times to see more engine data than on the outboard gauge, but i would never go out without a working original gauge as i need the MFD's space for navigation and fishing purposes.
I had a 2016 Garmin 9xx on the tower of my Venture 34 and the engine display literally sucked, so you may check how the engine data is displayed.

Chris

thanks guys (all of you). I figure the gauge saver prices have increased over the past couple years — might still be the best alternative.

I do not have a NMEA2000 backbone right now. My thinking was to replace the existing commandlink with a MFD that would fit in that spot and not look like a hack job to basically only show engine data (maybe split screen with the map). Then upgrade the other old Garmin down the line and like it up with the other gadgets on the NMEA backbone.

If all the MFD’s on the market are too big to fit in the spot (I havent printed the templates and checked yet) then I’ll settle with fixing the Yamaha gauge and upgrading the old Garmin now.

Thanks again for all the responses and resources. I havent been electronic shopping in a long time

 

[SkunkBoat]

thanks guys (all of you). I figure the gauge saver prices have increased over the past couple years — might still be the best alternative.

I do not have a NMEA2000 backbone right now. My thinking was to replace the existing commandlink with a MFD that would fit in that spot and not look like a hack job to basically only show engine data (maybe split screen with the map). Then upgrade the other old Garmin down the line and like it up with the other gadgets on the NMEA backbone.

If all the MFD’s on the market are too big to fit in the spot (I havent printed the templates and checked yet) then I’ll settle with fixing the Yamaha gauge and upgrading the old Garmin now.

Thanks again for all the responses and resources. I havent been electronic shopping in a long time

I like daydreaming and spending other peoples money...so..

Honestly, I look at that dash layout and think "that could not have been more poorly laid out". They should have put the switches to the right and left a big space for a 12" MFD.

There is nothing on your dash that can't be moved and no hole that can't be covered with 1/4" or 1/2" StarBoard.
Think about ditching the compass that you don't need (there's one on your phone if you really needed it)
Put the biggest mfd with sidescan sonar you can fit in front of your face on the dash. 7 " is too small for anything but a gauge.
You might be able to pick up used yamaha gauges from someone upgrading.
I agree that using your primary MFD for motor info is not good. You want your chart in front of your face. You don't need to stare at gauges.
That space with the 225 logo is a good place for gauges. Or down where the 4208 is.

You're at a point where you are going to spend money. Don't spend $1200 on a 7" mfd just because it fits the hole. Then you''l never get the bigger MFD you need.

At the very least, fix the gauge you have ,or get used one as cheaply as you can, and then you can mount a 943 on a bracket on top of your dash

 

[Gulffishin]

I like daydreaming and spending other peoples money...so..

Honestly, I look at that dash layout and think "that could not have been more poorly laid out". They should have put the switches to the right and left a big space for a 12" MFD.

There is nothing on your dash that can't be moved and no hole that can't be covered with 1/4" or 1/2" StarBoard.
Think about ditching the compass that you don't need (there's one on your phone if you really needed it)
Put the biggest mfd with sidescan sonar you can fit in front of your face on the dash. 7 " is too small for anything but a gauge.
You might be able to pick up used yamaha gauges from someone upgrading.
I agree that using your primary MFD for motor info is not good. You want your chart in front of your face. You don't need to stare at gauges.
That space with the 225 logo is a good place for gauges. Or down where the 4208 is.

You're at a point where you are going to spend money. Don't spend $1200 on a 7" mfd just because it fits the hole. Then you''l never get the bigger MFD you need.

At the very least, fix the gauge you have ,or get used one as cheaply as you can, and then you can mount a 943 on a bracket on top of your dash

hey— now this dude is on to something . I bet NewWire could whoop up a new switch panel and make those updates happen and it’ll look like it came that way from the factory. If I’m already spending money— why not go all out

 

[boater36]

If you want to display engine info on the Garmin MFD, you will need to add a NMEA200 gateway to to be able to talk to Command Link data.
You will also need a NMEA 200 backbone network if you don't already have one

Engine data is on the J1939 network, not N2k. You need an open data port on the Yamaha Engine Bus Hub, a 6Y8-82521-01 pigtail which connects to a Yamaha Engine Bus to J1939 for Garmin connector. If there isn't an open port on the Yamaha Hub, you also need to add a hub (6Y8-81920-01-00) and a hub to hub (Command Link) pigtail (6Y8-82521-11-00-1). Once this is all set up, I'm not sure that you will have all of the functions of the Yamaha unit.

 

[boater36]

thanks guys (all of you). I figure the gauge saver prices have increased over the past couple years — might still be the best alternative.

I do not have a NMEA2000 backbone right now. My thinking was to replace the existing commandlink with a MFD that would fit in that spot and not look like a hack job to basically only show engine data (maybe split screen with the map). Then upgrade the other old Garmin down the line and like it up with the other gadgets on the NMEA backbone.

If all the MFD’s on the market are too big to fit in the spot (I havent printed the templates and checked yet) then I’ll settle with fixing the Yamaha gauge and upgrading the old Garmin now.

Thanks again for all the responses and resources. I havent been electronic shopping in a long time

You do not need a NMEA200 network. Engine data is on the J1939 network, not N2k. You need an open data port on the Yamaha Engine Bus Hub, a 6Y8-82521-01 pigtail which connects to a Yamaha Engine Bus to J1939 for Garmin connector. If there isn't an open port on the Yamaha Hub, you also need to add a hub (6Y8-81920-01-00) and a hub to hub (Command Link) pigtail (6Y8-82521-11-00-1). Once this is all set up, I'm not sure that you will have *all* of the functions of the Yamaha unit.

My '24 235 Freedom did not have a N2K network with just a Garmin 8616 MDF, it displayed the engine data via the J1939 link. I just added a second MDF- that is when I built the N2k Network. The N2k networks the 2 MDFs and the Fusion stereo. Sonar data between the Garmins is via the ethernet (data) ports (eliminating need to duplicate transducers), engine data is via the J1939, and stereo (and any other add-ons) are N2K. If you have a Garmin with a J1939 connection already working, multiple MDFs can share engine data via N2K, but one of them must be connected to the Yamaha (J1939) network.

 

[seasick]

That is true but note that the MFD can not have the 1939 and the NMEA2000 enabled at the same time. Not an issue unless you need to add N2K in the future for something.

 

[boater36]

That is true but note that the MFD can not have the 1939 and the NMEA2000 enabled at the same time. Not an issue unless you need to add N2K in the future for something.

"
How the two networks coexist


Command Link (CL) is Yamaha's trade name for NMEA 2000 — they are essentially the same network with different branding. Command Link Plus (CL+) is Yamaha's name for J1939. N2K and J1939 share the same physical network layer (electrically identical), but they use different PGN and addressing schemes and are not protocol-compatible — they speak different languages on the same wire type. The Hull Truth


Garmin MFDs equipped with a J1939 port have two separate network interfaces:

• The NMEA 2000 port — connects to your main N2K backbone (GPS antenna, transducer, radar, VHF, etc.)
• The J1939 port — connects directly to the Yamaha Command Link Plus hub

Both run at the same time on the same MFD. They just carry different data streams."

 

[SkunkBoat]

That is true but note that the MFD can not have the 1939 and the NMEA2000 enabled at the same time. Not an issue unless you need to add N2K in the future for something.

I do not think that is correct.

 

[boater36]

"
How the two networks coexist


Command Link (CL) is Yamaha's trade name for NMEA 2000 — they are essentially the same network with different branding. Command Link Plus (CL+) is Yamaha's name for J1939. N2K and J1939 share the same physical network layer (electrically identical), but they use different PGN and addressing schemes and are not protocol-compatible — they speak different languages on the same wire type. The Hull Truth


Garmin MFDs equipped with a J1939 port have two separate network interfaces:

• The NMEA 2000 port — connects to your main N2K backbone (GPS antenna, transducer, radar, VHF, etc.)
• The J1939 port — connects directly to the Yamaha Command Link Plus hub

Both run at the same time on the same MFD. They just carry different data streams."

To clarify: The two networks are not running on the same bus. Yamaha's network comes through the Yamaha hub and connects to the J1939 port on the Garmin. The N2K network is a completely seperate backbone and connects to the Garmin through the NMEA2000 port. They can most definitely work together.

 

[seasick]

Oops.
You folks are correct and I was wro....., Well you know.
When I went back to the 1939 network issue I encountered It wasn't the MFD that couldn't support the two networks. It was a VHF radio that had both ports but only one could be active.
You are on your toes