Freedom 255 rigging tubes

[Rustygaff]

I will be running some 1/0 wire from my battery switch in the stern up to the console for a sound system amp. Based on the diagram in the manual, there are 2 (100" 3") tubes running from the console and head areas aft.
I have had my head down in the transom compartment many times and actually pulled the rear deck panel a couple years ago to install a thru-hull transducer. Yet, I do not recall seeing the rigging tubes down there.
Does anyone know where the access points are without pulling up the deck? Thanks.

 

[DennisG01]

I know on my boat, they're not readily viewable - they're sort of tucked under the deck a bit. I would imagine if you followed the pathway of some existing wires that they would lead you to the tubes?

 

[Blaugrana]

On my 228, two of the tubes are on the starboard side. I don’t think any of mine are easily in your line of sight so that’s why you are probably not seeing them.

 

[seasick]

I agree, just follow the motor harness cable or the accessory battery feed. They all run in a rigging tube. You may be able to hold your phone in the starboard bilge area and take a few pictures. That may let you see the tubes.

 

[Evopro54]

Rusty,

I just installed a #2 for a new amp on my Freedom 255. I am putting the amp inside the starboard gunnel wall behind the head unit. I was able to run the wire above the gunnel rod holders. There are holes for the lighting already there that I was able to use.

I looked for a could not find the chase tubes you are talking about - I sent fish snakes down alongside the existing wires/hoses with no luck. Maybe try using the access hatches in the deck?

Curious - what sound system are you going with?

 

[Fishtales]

If I take up the deck, I have 2 tubes per side on the Marlin. The starboard run up to the helm, the starboard to the aft berth (accessible via bulkhead).

 

[seasick]

I may not be sure where the rigging tubes are but I am sure there are rigging tubes

 

[Rustygaff]

Thanks guys for the tips. My best bet likely is to try to follow the hot accessory bus bar lead coming off the battery switch common and go from there.

EvoPro: I am installing 2 new JL M6 6.5 speakers in the bow, replacing the 4 6.5" cockpit speakers with M6 7.7's, and adding a M6 10IB sub somewhere low in the gunwale where it will fit. I have an 800/8 amp to power the 4 7.7's and a 400/4 amp to power the 6.5's and the sub. The amps will be mounted on the forward bulkhead partition inside the helm storage compartment. I plan to run the 1/0 wire up there and then divide the power to the 2 amps. The JL M series amps are supposedly known for their efficiency so I think I should be OK with my 2 group 31 AGM's since I wont be blasting it like some of the sandbar warriors.

 

[Evopro54]

Rusty Sounds great - I'm going with 6.5 Fusion Signature Series 3 speakers all around with a 1500W 4-channel signature series Amp. Running each set of speakers in parallel and the fourth will be for my amp. Considering a 10" sub below the head unit/cup holder area down near the floor. I am holding off until I finish the speakers to see if I even need that extra bass. My thought process was to keep that sub in the cockpit to create a natural subwoofer box.

 

[seasick]

If you're not going to crank that beast up, your cable suggestion is probably much larger gauge than you will need depending on the round trip run length. Don't forget that in all likelihood you will need to run a separate ground cable also. The feed has to be current protected close to the battery. One big factor in deciding cable size is whether to design for a 3% or 10% voltage drop, I don't know what the general rule is for audio equipment. Perhaps someone can educate me.

 

[Rustygaff]

I will be looking for a 3% min. voltage drop. The 1/0 wire is overkill but the cost increase was not that much so decided to go with the heavier wire. I also have 1/0 ground wire to go with the power lead and will install a 120A breaker near the battery select switch. I figure it will be at least a 30' round trip run from the console to the battery selector.

 

[seasick]

What size breaker does the manufacturer of the amps recommend?. Your system will never run at full current draw for more than a short intervals. The wattage specified is peak power not continuous power. The larger size cables won't hurt ( but will be harder to install) but the thought of possibly drawing 120 amps should something short, freaks me out a bit

 

[Rustygaff]

What size breaker does the manufacturer of the amps recommend?. Your system will never run at full current draw for more than a short intervals. The wattage specified is peak power not continuous power. The larger size cables won't hurt ( but will be harder to install) but the thought of possibly drawing 120 amps should something short, freaks me out a bit

The 800/8 amp calls for an 80 amp fuse/breaker and the 400/4 calls for a 40 amp hence the 120a primary breaker.
The circuit will be split in the console at a block with an 80a fused line going to the 800/8 and a 40a fused line going to the 400/4.
My proposed setup is tiny compared to some others have done to the extreme. I stole a pic from another page as an example.

 

[seasick]

It's hard for me to relate to such a power draw for an entertainment system I still remember my first transistor radio that ran on a carbon zinc 9 volt battery that lasted about 4 hours. Before that I had a portable radio that had tubes.
( Those glass things that had filaments that glowed).

 

[Evopro54]

1/0 should be more than enough cross-sectional area for the system. Its important to keep impedance as close to zero from the battery to the amp. Any impedance is lost power/battery draw that you cannot get back.

Rusty I thought that was your install for a moment! I wish we had the real-estate to stage a system like that!

 

[Rustygaff]

Imagine what the sound system in that pic must sound like?
I figured the larger wire would minimize impedence and subsequent voltage loss and thats why I am running with it. On another note, if I ever need a 2nd 10” sub (big if) and have to change out the smaller amp, my wiring will have the horsepower to power it.

 

[Evopro54]

Definitely, bigger will never hurt. Less wasted energy, longer battery life. Good luck with the rest of your build. Let me know how you make out mounting the Subwoofer in the gunwhale. I'll post some pictures once mine is finished.

Got a bunch of lighting upgrades to show off as well.