Thank you! I don't know if I'll make it to the boat this weekend but as soon as I do I'll start there and will certainly let everyone know how it goes.
Freshwater system issue
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Fishtales
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I changed my pump last fall. It's just one big radial feed system, each exit point should be independent off the main feed. The pump can be accessed by removing the tackle draw enclosure under the rigging station sink. Plumbing is straightforward (wasn't too impressed to be honest) but a lot of Ts and connection points. I'm guessing an obstructed or kinked line. There isn't a much of a tie down system either. If a clog look an the connection points. Barbed fittings are used which will restrict ID of the system at these points, that coupled with the barbed end is a good place for things to collect, build up and cause a blockage.
A Vacuflush is pretty cool. It is very efficient and uses very little water to flush. There's a separate vacuum system and holding tank that creates vacuum at the toilet. The toilet bowl has a ball valve at the bottom of the bowl. The foot pedal does two things... it is a "handle" to allow water to fill the bowl and then it opens the ball valve to allow the full vacuum force (created on the backside of the ball valve) to suck the bowl contents into the holding tank. Well, technically, the contents are sucked to the vac tank and then pushed to the holding tank.
It’s almost always the little aerator screen right on the faucet itself as mentioned. There is a small filter behind the tackle drawers right at the FW pump if it hasn’t been removed but I doubt it’s that.
Unscrew the aerator at the faucet and it will probably be very dirty.
Good luck
Unscrew the aerator at the faucet and it will probably be very dirty.
Good luck
Yeah, I used to have that problem on my 208. Right now the focus is on the disconnected line.
Okay, still perplexed. This is a view of the hot water heater looking fwd. The line on the bottom left comes off of the pump. The line on the top left goes to a thick brass tee that has two lines branching out. It has a blue plastic cap on top.
The line on the bottom left with the valve has a tee with an open-end branch. When I open the valve stinky water comes out of the open tee. The other branch goes to the valve on the heater in the upper right.
I flipped the little lever on the upper right valve to the position shown here and the pump got quieter down but still running. Still no water to the cabin faucets but the tank gauge shows a significant drop in water level.
Maybe time to call somebody.
The line on the bottom left with the valve has a tee with an open-end branch. When I open the valve stinky water comes out of the open tee. The other branch goes to the valve on the heater in the upper right.
I flipped the little lever on the upper right valve to the position shown here and the pump got quieter down but still running. Still no water to the cabin faucets but the tank gauge shows a significant drop in water level.
Maybe time to call somebody.
Hookup1
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I can't read the model numbers off the water heater. The 6-gallon Kuuma I see online looks the same.
On this diagram the upper right is the hot water pressure blowoff line. The lever arm should be down - otherwise the tank will fill and overflow to the drain.
Top left is hot water out to your faucets.
Bottom right is cold water in.
Bottom left is a heater drain valve with hose to bilge. This valve should be closed.
Do you see any water gurgling the the hoses?
Make sure the upper right lever is down and the lower left valve is closed. Fill boat water tank and see if it pressurizes. Good luck!
On this diagram the upper right is the hot water pressure blowoff line. The lever arm should be down - otherwise the tank will fill and overflow to the drain.
Top left is hot water out to your faucets.
Bottom right is cold water in.
Bottom left is a heater drain valve with hose to bilge. This valve should be closed.
Do you see any water gurgling the the hoses?
Make sure the upper right lever is down and the lower left valve is closed. Fill boat water tank and see if it pressurizes. Good luck!
Last edited:
Thanks, I flipped the upper right lever open with the pump running to see if that did anything, hope I didn't screw up in doing so. It is back in the closed position now.
I've left the boat now. A friend has a boroscope and we are going to try again next week to see if we see anything that might give a clue.
It was mentioned above that you need to let the pump fill the hot water tank completely before all faucets will work correctly... from both the hot AND cold. This is EXACTLY the same idea as how your hot water heat works at home. Have you done that, yet (filled the tank completely)? Gotta bleed the system first.
You may also want to freshen up the holding tank and the hot water heater.
You may also want to freshen up the holding tank and the hot water heater.
I think the tank is full, ran out of time for today. I'll get back on it next week. Just to be clear, what do you mean by " bleed the system " Thanks for the inputs.
When you opened the pressure relief valve, you should have then had water exiting the thru-hull. From what you wrote, it sort of sounds like you didn't have that. Which means it's not full.
Your HWH output line appears to have very dark liquid in it?
Bleed: get the air out. Open the relief valve first to bleed, then open the furthest facucet... cold then hot.
Your HWH output line appears to have very dark liquid in it?
Bleed: get the air out. Open the relief valve first to bleed, then open the furthest facucet... cold then hot.
Hookup1
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As Dennis said - open all the faucets hot and cold and let the water pump run. If you have cold water flow on a faucet shut it off and leave hot water open. When another faucet pumps water do this again. This will bleed the air out of the system.
I'm not sure what you are looking for with a borescope (you mean endoscope) - camera on cable connected to display gadget. Look for water leaking/running while water pump is turned on. See if its leaking into the bilge.
Stay with the water heater for a minute. The lever ion the top right corner is just a safety blowoff valve. You didn't hurt anything by opening. Make sure it's flipped down and look to see if any water is flowing out that hose - there should not be.
Next check the shutoff valve in the lower left corner. It should be closed (counter clockwise). Open this valve and look to see if any water flow out the hose - water should come out when you open the valve. Close it after you check. If you did not have water come out the hose then the hot water tank is empty.
Water comes into the hot water tank from the pump in the lower right connector. If you didn't have water in the tank pull that hose to check that pump water is getting to the hot water tank.
While you are doing all this testing make sure there is enough water in the freshwater tank. Gauges can be misleading. Fill the tank to overflow and confirm gauge works.
I'm not sure what you are looking for with a borescope (you mean endoscope) - camera on cable connected to display gadget. Look for water leaking/running while water pump is turned on. See if its leaking into the bilge.
Stay with the water heater for a minute. The lever ion the top right corner is just a safety blowoff valve. You didn't hurt anything by opening. Make sure it's flipped down and look to see if any water is flowing out that hose - there should not be.
Next check the shutoff valve in the lower left corner. It should be closed (counter clockwise). Open this valve and look to see if any water flow out the hose - water should come out when you open the valve. Close it after you check. If you did not have water come out the hose then the hot water tank is empty.
Water comes into the hot water tank from the pump in the lower right connector. If you didn't have water in the tank pull that hose to check that pump water is getting to the hot water tank.
While you are doing all this testing make sure there is enough water in the freshwater tank. Gauges can be misleading. Fill the tank to overflow and confirm gauge works.
Sounds like you are going to start at step 10 instead of step 1. Why not try cleaning the screens at the end of the faucet as I have mentioned twice now, and also the on/off button at the end of the faucet (which you said you have pushed back and forth). If there was a major problem, you would hear water running from where ever there is a break or a disconnect and your bilge would fill and your bilge pump would turn on (and your pump wouldn't cycle on and off, it would just stay on since it would never achieve shut off pressure since it would have a wide open route to send water). Try the end of the faucet and work your way back from there. That is step one. Not sure how else I can say this to make it more clear. Just unscrew the end of the faucets in both head and kitchen for now and play with that on/off button.
Update, the freshwater system is now working as it should!!!
Steps taken today:
-Brought a smart friend
-Filled tank until water was coming out the filler neck
-Replaced the cockpit faucet that was leaking badly
-Cleaned the strainer on the inlet side of the pump
-Turned on pump and waited a few minutes and then opened the galley & head faucets
Wallah, we have water!
Thank you, thank you to everyone who offered their knowledge, and suggestions/ recommendations!
Steps taken today:
-Brought a smart friend
-Filled tank until water was coming out the filler neck
-Replaced the cockpit faucet that was leaking badly
-Cleaned the strainer on the inlet side of the pump
-Turned on pump and waited a few minutes and then opened the galley & head faucets
Wallah, we have water!
Thank you, thank you to everyone who offered their knowledge, and suggestions/ recommendations!
If the forum charged the typical plumbers rate for diagnosing and repairs, you would have to see your boat to cover the expense
Glad it worked out.
Glad it worked out.