fuel gauge

Gibsonsky

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Ignition off fuel gauge at empty. Ignition on fuel gauge full. Hours of engine use fuel gage still hovering full.
Safe to say sensor stuck up top?
or any possibility of some mis-wiring ?
 

DennisG01

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"Hovering" - what does that mean? It's starting to move, but still near full? What does "hours" of engine use mean? And how were you using the engine?
 

Gibsonsky

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Last summer topped of 80 gal. tank with 40 gal. gas, before doing so gauge still read full or close to it.
 

DennisG01

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OK, that explains things better.

With the key on (engine does not need to be started), remove the pink wire from the fuel sender unit at the tank - gauge should drop to E. Next, ground the pink wire and the gauge should peg F. If that doesn't happen, replace sender. If it does happen, the issue is with the wiring to the gauge or the gauge. Do the same procedure at the gauge to determine if it's the wiring or the gauge.
 
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blindmullet

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If you need to replace the sender go with the reed style.
 

seasick

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Do as Dennis suggests. You will know quickly what the issue is.
Please note that if the tank is full or close to it, do not remove the sender. Gas will pour out.
 

Hookup1

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Has the fuel gauge ever works for you? I get the impression this is a new boat for you. If this gauge problem suddenly started I would guess its a bad sending unit.

Go with a WEMA style sender if you need to replace it. You will need to know the length to order one.

And heed SEASICK's advice. Also make sure the boat/tank is level so all the fuel doesn't run back. Do you remember how much fuel should be in the tank?
 
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Gibsonsky

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Thanks for all your replies. Grounded the wire at the sender and the gauge spiked. Seasick, thanks for the warning on removing sender with full tank. I purchased the boat last summer and for me its always been like it is. I'm contemplating weather to attemt to remove sender and replace or just spend more time at the pump, lol. Fuel lines run over sender so I would have to remove at least the hose that feeds fuel to outboard. I don't want to open a can of worms. I'll post some pics.
 
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DennisG01

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Fuel lines run over sender so I would have to remove at least the hose that feeds fuel to outboard. I don't want to open a can of worms. I'll post some pics.
What could those "worms" be? It's just a little rubber hose. Literally, this is a 10 minute job. If the rubber hose should deteriorate in your hands, then you know that this was something that needed to be replaced, anyways. Unless you'd rather find out 2 hours away from shore? ;)
 

seasick

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I am pretty sure that the fuel hose will easily move out of the way. So that's not a big deal. To be fair though, there is always the possibility that a sender screw or two have issues and or the sender flange or tank flange are very corroded. Regardless, you need to drain off or burn off some gas if the tank is full.
If you want to install a new sender, you have a few options: A new style rod type ( often called a WEMA brand but now owned by KUS) or an older type with a swing arm. For the former, you need to know the length and that requires removing the sender and measuring the depth from the flange to the tank bottom. For a metal tank subtract 1/2 inch and get a new sender that is close to that measurement. There should be some room between the bottom of the tank and the tip of the sender. at least a half inch up to an inch is OK. Too little clearance can cause fuel flow restrictions. Of course, since you have to measure, then order the sender, there is a delay between the removal of the old sender and the new install.
Option 2 is to get a 'universal adjustable swing arm with float type of sender. They aren't as good as the rod types but that is probably what you have now and you can usually pick one up in a marine supply store.
Note also that a full gas tank is a lot less explosive than a mostly empty one so don't try to drain the whole tank. Just enough to preclude the overflow of gas.
Hint #2; Although the screws on the sender flange appear to be evenly spaced, they aren't so when reinstalling, make sure the new gasket ( a must) and the sender flange line up with the holes on the tank flange. Don't over tighten the screws.
 

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I will add this- take it easy when removing those Sender screws, you can screw things up quickly if you horse ‘em too much.
 

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Go with a WEMA and save yourself the frustration of other more mechanical types. If the length is not already stamped on top if you have a WEMA, then likely you will need to pull yours out and measure it to order and you should be able to replace it without too much issue. But they do a lot of times have corrosion to deal with.
Also, don't remove the staple in the new gasket!
You might be able to check with Grady on the length if you don't want to remove it before getting a new one. Just my .02.
 

Hookup1

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The previous posts did a great job of pointing out all the gotchas. Go WEMA, hose should move out of the way, wet rag over sender and be careful getting screws out, sender screws are indexed - make sure its clocked correctly, put a new connector on sending unit before you install it - 2 pin trailer connector, test sending unit before you install it. Fuel gauge has a delay so set it and watch the bars count up or down.

I have one more to add. Frequently salt water gets under the sending unit gasket and pits the aluminum surface underneath. New gasket won't seal and you have a fuel leak. Apply a Permatex fuel safe sealant (Motoshield for heavy pitting or Permashield) on the tank to sender side of the gasket.
 

Gibsonsky

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Heres some pics of the sending unit
IMG_2020.jpeg

IMG_2023 .jpg
IMG_2021.jpeg
 

Gibsonsky

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Feeding hose is flexible and I don't for-see any issues removing it. Fuel fill may be an issue.
Any clues with numbers on sender ?
 

ROBERTH

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Looks like this is the one you might have: https://www.toddusa.com/pdf/todd-marin-fuel-sender.pdf

That terminal connection does not look like it is very good. Maybe is just gooped up. Also, looks like someone has been there before with a different screw than the others.

At this point, I would pull it, measure depth and order a new WEMA and should be good to go. Add a new terminal connection as well .
 
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blindmullet

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They have the reed style on Amazon for a good price. Just put one on my little boat last week. I believe it's one inch shorter for aluminum tanks. I think it was around $50 for the 5" I bought.
 

Halfhitch

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Your last photo that shows the phillips head screw among the other hex head screws makes me think there should be a ground wire eyelet under that phillips screw. Were I, you, I would verify a good ground to the sender.
 

seasick

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Looks like this is the one you might have: https://www.toddusa.com/pdf/todd-marin-fuel-sender.pdf

That terminal connection does not look like it is very good. Maybe is just gooped up. Also, looks like someone has been there before with a different screw than the others.

At this point, I would pull it, measure depth and order a new WEMA and should be good to go. Add a new terminal connection as well .
If you look at the reference to the sender, you see that the odd screw is original and is a ground connection, not a flange screw. So it's probably original.
 

DennisG01

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I'm guessing there's a tab on the tank somewhere else that we can't see that is being used as the ground instead of that screw. I do see a black wire in the picture.