Fuel Removal

DennisG01

GreatGrady Captain
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#21
Containers to hold gas... a big, plastic garbage can works well. A CLEAN one, of course!

Filters... why not just use your existing, boat-mounted spin-on filter?

Just google for electric fuel pump.

Gianni, I understand what you're saying about the fuel fill. I was asking for the picture to know what style you have and to see if it's really in need of replacement. If you don't have the integrated vent style, the vent fitting will a foot or two below the fuel fill. Look on the cap for model number markings - sometimes you'll find the manufacturer and model number. Or, go to Perko or Attwood's website and look around for something that matches.

Edit: Typing the same time as you, hitch!
 
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#22
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#23
https://www.amazon.com/MegaFlint-Un...&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=inline+fuel+pump&psc=1

This type of pump is all you need. Just remove the fuel line from the "in" side of your fuel/water separator and connect the pump into that line . If the fuel does not flow, you may have to remove the "anti-siphon" valve from the tank elbow. Put a funnel with a water screen in it into your container of choice and pump into that. The gas that comes out of that
screened funnel will burn just fine in most any engine.

Once you have pumped this way till it sucks air you can remove the fuel sender and put an extended hose from the suction side of the inline pump to the very bottom of your tank to get every last bit of fuel.
and again yep and thanks. i guess i was thinking of some fancy stand alone pump but there is no reason those won't work fine.
 
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#25
I guess im using the wrong term when it comes to fuel fill... What im trying to say is where you exactly put the nozzle (gas cap) into the boat while fueling, that "spout mount" is replaceable? I dont see an o ring that can be replaced when you twist off the gas cap. I believe that may be a point of intrusion. I am not aware of where our vent is to make sure its not getting in that way either...
On another Grady I owned the fuel fill hose that led from the filler cap on the gunwale down to my main tank dried up and split. It was weeks before I realized that was where the smell was coming from whenever I filled up......20 or 30 bucks and an hour or two and I was good as new.
 

seasick

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#26
FYI, the stated flow rate for this pump is about 18 gallons per hour in an ideal situation ( small lift, short to no hose length).
When you connect to a tank with a decent length of hose and the pickup has an anti-siphon valve, the realistic flow will be a lot less. My point is that is you have a lot of gas to pump out, you will be spending the good part of a day pumping.
The last time I watched a friend at my club pump out like this, it took him two full days and a lot of trips with the gas cans ( he pumped 150+ gallons out) He had no problem getting rid of the gas, fellow boaters were lining up:).

From a safety point of view, you need to be careful about where and how you switch the pump on and off. The switch should be as far away form the tank as possible and in open vented spaces not in the bilge area. There is a good risk of gas vapors when pumping out especially if you do the multiple gas cans on the deck approach.
 
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#27
Look for a 55 gallon plastic drum to hold the fuel and you can see the separation in it pretty easy. Also you can get a "wonder pump" (siphon pump) and just have the barrel lower than the tank if the boats on a trailer that's easy and just let it run out
 
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#28
The filler o-ring is almost always on the filler cap. Could easily have rotted off. These are easily replaceable and would seem to be the only point of failure for a fuel inlet unless the housing is cracked (unlikely). These are available from most marine supply houses like West Marine etc. Usually base on the diameter of the hose that connects to the underside that fills the tank. Newer boats have the vent built into the filler neck while older boats will have a vent in the side of the boat most of the time just down from the fill neck.
 

SkunkBoat

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#30