Fuel Tank/Fuel Lines Replacement

[lasvegaskid69]

Dear Members,
I want to thank you in advance for having this forum.
I'm hopeful someone can provide me with some expert advice?
I own a 1989 25' Sailfish. The fuel lines/fill lines are shot.
Obviously the supply lines are a piece of cake to change.
But, the 2) 1 1/2" fill hoses are another story. :cry: :bang
I spoke to Eddy at GW Technical and he gave me some tips.
But I'm hoping to hear from someone that has done it.
I know I have to cut an inspection cover on the opposite side of the deck fills.
The hose is running through some structure including stringers.
I'm ready to tackle it, just need some advice. Photos are great if any one has them.
Thanks very much, Bob

 

[Curmudgeon]

Do a good search, lots of good info has been passed previously ...

 

[onoahimahi]

How do you know when your fuel lines are shot? Do you see cracks in them or something?

I have a 94 Sailfish and my fuel lines look fine externally but I drained my fuel filters into a glass milk bottle after my first outing and there were a lots of little black specs in the bottle. I received this boat with 75 gallons of 4-year-old non-ethanol fuel and 2 gallons of water in the main tank and 25 gallons of 4-year-old fuel and no water in the aux tank. I drained but did not flush the tanks and put 25 gallons of E10 in each for my first outing.

I'm wondering if the black specs are crap leftover in the 20-year old tank or signs that the E10 is attacking my black hoses. I have a second set of filters in my E-TECs and there were no specs when I drained those so I'm not worried about this stuff getting to my fuel injectors at the moment.

 

[Pez Vela]

The hose is running through some structure including stringers.

The boat's stringers run longitudinally, affixed to the bottom of the hull, underneath the fuel tanks. They are not directly involved in the replacement of the fuel tanks or fuel lines. What is involved is the starboard side bulkhead which forms the starboard side of the fuel tank compartments. The fuel fill and vent lines pass through this bulkhead as shown in the attached photo. Once the fuel lines are disconnected from the deck fill and vents, you may try and pull them out. We had no luck with that, even with the tanks removed. We resorted to cutting a large rectangular hole in the bulkhead, adjacent to the round "pass-through" holes, for greater leverage and a better angle to pull the old hoses out. Even with all that, it was VERY difficult. Your results may vary.

 

[NautiBuoys]

I did my 1988 23' Gulfstream fuel, vent and fill lines some years ago but have no pictures. All my fuel fill and vent lines were caulked/silicone'd to the bulkheads/stringers where they passed thru (believe there were 2 for each fuel fill) but once I got them freed up, they pulled up and out pretty easily. I electrical taped the new fuel fill hoses to the old from the tank(s) and pulled the old hoses up thru the gunnel. Key was getting the cauIking off and the connection from old to new hoses at almost the same diameter as not much room thru the bulkheads/stringers cutouts. I then cut an access port in the side of the gunnel so I could re-attach the fills and grounding wires.

 

[toolguy73]

I replaced mine 2 years ago. 87 Gulfstream 232G. I cut a hole for an 8" screw type deck plate behind the fuel fills. This gave me access to every clamp there, and the nuts holding the fills in. Removed the fuel fills, vents and the deck hatches. Disconnected the large hoses from the tanks and ran a 1/4" drill through the outer walls of the hose at the tank end. The holes were 1/2" from the end and dead on the 'diameter' line of the hose wall. Then tied a piece of 3/16 line to that end through the hose. Broke the silicone seals sealing the hoses to the stringers. Slowly worked the fuel hoses out through the fill holes on the gunnel. Drilled 1/4" holes into the end of the new hose, tied my pull line to it, used a liberal amount of 2" electric tape on the end to make it easier to pull, and pulled the new hoses through, but from the fill holes. I laid a ladder on the hardtop hanging out over the fuel fills to kind of act as a hose guide. Same procedure for the vent lines. I left the holes in the ends of the large hoses because the necks on the fills and the tank are long enough that it didn't matter, but I cut the vent lines clean. Double clamps everywhere and new connections on the fuel senders. The large hoses were old, stiff, mostly surface cracked, and very tough to pull. Even so, it took about 8 hours without reinstalling the deck hatches.

I also replaced them in my 83 Tournament 245 in 2005. They were easier because of better access, but I was younger, too. :wink:

You can do this. By yourself, if necessary.

 

[Grog]

I cut a 1 1/2" wood dowel about 4" long and put it equally in both hoses and screwed the hose to the dowel. The next step is a royal PIA but you have to pull the hose through the sealed holes in the stringers. You can reach the aux tank fill without drilling an access hole but doing the main isn't worth the aggravation of not drilling the hole.

 

[lasvegaskid69]

Thanks for all the information. As it turns out I'm having to replace all the wood around the entire tank compartment, all hoses , fuel and water & both fuel tanks . My boat has been meticulously maintained. I bought it in 1996 and have always kept up on all maintenance. Water was able to get between the inner area and rot the plywood. I will have to remove all the inner fiberglass, also the tank divider and re fiberglass all the new wood. I'm not happy but that's the way it goes. My supply fuel lines are all blistered and the fill lines are brittle and crunch when you squeeze them. I'm also rebuilding the tank supports as they have rotted also. When I replace the wood I'm going to seal it so it will out live me!!! :wink: I will shoot some pictures and post them for anyone interested . I'm going to attempt to have it in the water for the July 4 weekend!!!! :wink:

 

[JVT]

Are you doing the work yourself? If not, what is the estimated cost for replacing the tank, fuel lines, and the repair to wooden structures?

I bought an '89 Sailfish last year and although the decks over the tanks are soft and have to be recored, the surveyor said the tanks seem to be sound (he used a small camera). I fear when I remove the decks to repair them this winter (and plan to replace fuel lines) I will find some rotted wood in other places. I will hire someone to do this work and am wondering what type of expense I am looking at. Thanks.

 

[lasvegaskid69]

Are you doing the work yourself? If not, what is the estimated cost for replacing the tank, fuel lines, and the repair to wooden structures?

I bought an '89 Sailfish last year and although the decks over the tanks are soft and have to be recored, the surveyor said the tanks seem to be sound (he used a small camera). I fear when I remove the decks to repair them this winter (and plan to replace fuel lines) I will find some rotted wood in other places. I will hire someone to do this work and am wondering what type of expense I am looking at. Thanks.

Yes, I'm doing all the work myself. I have tanks on order 124 Gallon & 73 Gallon. The 2 are approximately $1800.00 . Fuel fill hose costs about $10.00 per ft.
But you can shop and find it for less. Fuel vent hose is about $3.00 per. ft. Water/ Bait hoses are $3.00 + or -.
I just found out yesterday that the company I'm getting the fiberglass from has a process to coat the tanks and they will last forever.
I did some work on the boat today, and was disappointed to find that the 2 main stringers that travel to the bow area from the fuel tank coffin, that are to each side of the live bait well,
have extensive rot. I'm thinking that my rot problems have occurred because the plug in the aft bulge was in, and water was trapped in the fuel tank area. I'm meeting with a fiberglass expert on Sat. morning and I will see what he recommends. I have to believe that there many boats out there that have similar problems. I am going to post pictures soon so, everyone can see the issues. Please post when you check things out.
Thanks, Bob

 

[Tucker]

A good tip for removing the old hoses is to heat them up with a heat gun. Softens them up and the come right off the fittings.