Let us know in 20 years how that held up!Just to clarify, closed cell neoprene is not rubber. It does not contain carbon that can damage the aluminum over time.
It also adheres better to the tank is what my fabricator told me vs something that is plastic. You want a good grip so the tank stays in place when it's full and you come down off plane quickly.
I did glue my neoprene strips down to the coffin floor vs the bottom of the new tank first because I have raised pads on my Grady, and the contours were not the same. I wanted the tank to be equally supported on all of them, so I made the "executive decision". Had the pads not been there, I agree gluing the 5200 and spacer material to the bottom of the new tank would be the best route.
What thickness neoprene did you chose? What about bulkheads? Hard to see in pic.Closed cell neoprene is what I used. I purchased mine from my aluminum tank fabricator. Use 3M 5200 for securing the material to your coffin.
Patriot Marine Fabricating~Paul Spisak (609) 693-5542
You should google David Pascoe for installation tips.
And of course good luck!
Here was my layout...View attachment 9917
Ah, I understand better, now. The mounting surface was essentially uneven so the neoprene helps to take up the irregularities. That makes sense. I'd probably still be worried about possible crevice corrosion since there's no way to fair the 5200 between the neo and tank. Of course... trying to remove that tank down the road... since it's now essentially superglued to the hull... yikes! But that's neither here nor there at this point. Good luck!I did glue my neoprene strips down to the coffin floor vs the bottom of the new tank first because I have raised pads on my Grady, and the contours were not the same. I wanted the tank to be equally supported on all of them, so I made the "executive decision". Had the pads not been there, I agree gluing the 5200 and spacer material to the bottom of the new tank would be the best route.
Keep in mind that Lee already has something built-in to raise the tank off the floor for air circulation which, again, is the primary reason. Using JUST the neo, in your case, would not be good.What thickness neoprene did you chose? What about bulkheads? Hard to see in pic.
If you can get it thick enough to allow for good air circulation, go for it. But if it gets expensive, don't bother - it's really not going to do anything for you that something else, much cheaper, would do. That said, I have no idea what it would cost.Thanks all for the information. Looks like I will get the tank first and then see what I have to work with as far as thickness and location of material. Learned lot about closed cell neoprene in my searches. I can buy it in 2” wide strips, 1/16” to 1 1/2” thick and in densities of 20 duro to 80 duro.
LT, My 226 only has the main tank like yours. I have been considering adding the aux tank. What are the dimensions of the space for the aux tank. It would help me to know that since I do not have access to the boat now. I looked at Great Lakes Skipper yesterday. They have a large number of poly tanks in the 30-89 gallon capacity. Here is a link so that you might find one to fit.
I was fortunate enough to get 32 years outta mine. Probably pure luck, but I'm happy I replaced it before it started leaking.Fill hose comes in from starboard side on bow end. That tank has the fill on port or flipped at stern end.
I really like having the connection and sender available from existing inspection plate. The made to stock (but .125 thickness) aluminum tank is close to the same price as that after delivery (my quote local is $900).
I got 20years out of the stock main and is still going (knock on wood), if I get that out of the new aux., I’m happy.