Fuel Tank Removal

[92explorer]

Has any body removed the main tank on a 90's explorer?

I have removed all the wedges, brackets etc and the tank is loose. I just cant seem to get it out. I really dont want to start cutting up the deck but I think I'm gonna might have to. Opening is 59 1/2, tank is 62" long. I tried lifting from the back but it gets wedgec before I can get it out.

:cry: Besides to inspect it, I need to get it out to get a new sending plate mounting bracket welded on as all 5 screws broke off after lots of time with PB blaster to get them loose.

Thanks

 

[NIGHTIDES]

I had the pleasure of having to remove the 92gal tank from a 228. The tank was bigger than the opening so I had to cut the inner lip enough so I could get it out.

Keep in mind that Grady puts the tank in before the liner. Than is why your tank is so/too tight.

 

[BobP]

What's blocking it at the rear end?

And is it one cover or do two covers meet at the rear end?

 

[92explorer]

There is bulkhead in between the fuel tank compartment and the bilge area and a second betweeen the two fuel tank areas. I'm thinking cut the lip and reinforce with pressure treated 2x4 with SS Screws. This will provide support for the floor

I figured the tank was put in before the deck was put on. Just would have been nice to be able to get it out without cutting

 

[bhemi]

Sending unit problem-don't have to remove tank

I just replaced both sending units on my tank. Stuff a wet rag in the hole even if the tank is empty. Take a Dremel and grind the broken screws off flat. They won't leak the stainless screws have "welded" themselves to the aluminum. Turn the sender unit a few degrees and drill new holes. I used a new tap set and it took about 2 minutes each to tap new screw holes. I kept a shop vac on the holes while I drilled and tapped and very little debris went into the tank and any pieces will sit on the bottom or get caught up in the filter. It took less than an hour to do both senders. Only pull your tank if its leaking or you like repairing fibreglass.

 

[BobP]

If the bulkhead you are mentioning has a flat gelcoated piece over it, that's under the visible deck? And the deck is screwd thru it into bulkhead? And Grady has a wad of chpped strand mat under it between the bulkhead?

That's how Grady molded the under deck area, and just cut all the openings.

If so, piece of cake.

Make two cut lines towards the ends (leave several inches)and remove it, when done bevel edges and splice a glass butt into it, forget re gelcoating - not needed. Make sure you get it level when putting it back.

If you don't know what I'm writing about, posting a photo will help.

 

[92explorer]

Great Tip bhemi

When I left the boat on Tuesday, I had the old sending unit out and the hoses all disconnected. Stuck my nose in the tank this morning only to a faint smell of gas thanks to mother nature between the sun and wind. I felt much better about the drilling. Dont have a dremel tool so I used a flat file to knock down the remaining screws to where I could not feel with my finger nail. I put new unit in and drew a circle around it for positioning, when I had it where I wanted, I center punched all holes, then the drilling tapping process began. Of course I used plenty of oil on both the rag and the drill. Cleaned it up, form a gasket on the tank side to make up for the irregular surface and its back in.

Now to figure out how to get the rubber back below the tank.

I would say this is a great way to do this. Helluva lot better than removing the tank But remove all gas and purge the tank the best you for safety. Drill slowly, let the bit do the work. When tapping stick your shop vac hose in the tank

Thanks to Grady, I'll be replacing this unit again next year. I was told both tanks are the same depth. They are not. Rear one is 16" deep and should use a 15.5 WEMA not the 14.5 I ordered. But at least when it says "E" there will be some reserve. Dont feel like waiting for the right one now, It's been a wet spring and I need to get this boat a floatin.

Thanks