Fuel tank replacement request - 1990 Tournament 19ft

rennick75

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Hi again,
I've definitely opened a can of worms with this boat. I'm revamping a neglected 1990 GW Tournament 19' and have run into a big problem. The fuel tank appears to be leaking pretty bad. Just had the engine serviced yesterday. When we raised the front of the trailer on blocks to finally get enough pitch to drain the bildge, straight fuel came pouring out. I just filled the 60 gallon tank too. My friend/mechanic says the best option is to find a welder to fabricate an exact size & shape tank. Does anybody have any advise on this issue? Is a metal tank preferred over a plastic tank for an under deck set up? In less than two weeks, I've replaced all the cushions, seating, batteries and serviced the engine. I was hoping to be done with the spending for a while, then the tank issue came to light. Now I'm fearful to take the boat out with loose fuel under the deck. I guess the 'Break Out Another Thousand" saying is coming true in just the first few weeks my boat ownership expierence. Lucky me..
- Steve
 

RAINMAKER

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This is your best option IMHO.http://www.floridamarinetanks.com/ They made the original tank more than likely and will fab. a direct replacement. It's cheaper in the long run to fix it one time right . Fuel tanks on boats are not to be taken lightly. Good luck on your revamping. :D

Also just seen that you're in FLorida so you could possibly save the shipping by picking it up .
 

tbyrne

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Tournament 19

Hi

I1ll be honest, I have enjoyed your posts. The reason is I also have an older 19 ft Tournament. I`ll tell you my experiences so far and then offers some advice.

First, I bought mine at the end of the summer 2008. I saw it on Craigslist advertised for $7,000. 1985 Tournament 19 with a 140 Suzuki 1999.

I was pricing a few at the time. This one then dropped to 6,000 so I went and saw it. It seemed to be in good shape but needed to be cleaned up.

I looked at a few others in the same price range and they needed less work. Mostly cosmetic stuff like decals, cleaning, but mechanically the boat was sound. After a few more weeks of watching, I called the guy and told him I wanted to see it again. I printed out a few adds to show him the difference in boats. I offered him $3,500 and we negotiated to $4,200.

I got a bunch of advice from this board during the hunt for the boat. First things first, i went to pick it up and the trailer lights did not work. So, i spent a few bucks and fixed it up. Nice aluminum trailer, but needed lights.

Got it home and took it out on the local lake and it ran fine, no problem, however, I did get a smell of gas. Though it was mostly from the 2 stroke engine, but as it turns out, it is quite common for a 20 year old aluminum gas tank to be pitted. Got a few estimates but after some checking, I coated the top of the tank with some epoxy paint and figured I could get through a season. I did, but this year I will be changing the tank.

Not a bad expense or investment, for 300-400 bucks you can get a straight drop in. If you can live with a smaller tank, some of the plastic ones would work as well and could be less.

I bought new decals from Crocker Marine. This year i put the logo on myself but not the stripe, I plan to do that in the spring. I spent about $100 for the decales but you can get the logos on ebay for less.

The boat had two pedestal seats that were OK but not original. The posts were good, but the seats were not. I decided to change out the seats with a Bolster type captains seat and a back to back on the passenger side. Cost me about $500 but, you can find seats for less. I opted for a taller base on the back to back and splurged a little. They look nice.

I planned a long weekend to the coast and did not want to have trailer problems. I put in new bearings and new tires, kept one old tire for a spare. No problems with trailer on 3 trips to the coast this year. Money well spent for no problems.

Picked up a Boat US membership with tow insurance.

Had the two bow cushions re-done at a local upholstery shop, cost me about $150 but they are like brand new.

The jump seats in the back are aftermarket fold down fishing seats. I found the original seat backs on ebay for $40 I plant to make the bases this winter.

Also found a complete set of canvass on this site for $250. Everything fit except the bow cover, I might get that re-done next year.

Bought a cover at Wal mart $100 but will probably upgrade that at some point.

The point of all of this is, I managed to get a nice boat, no transom issues, a solid motor and got great use out of it this year at the local lakes and the beach including a jaunt out into the ocean up to cape lookout. All the while, i have been fixing it up little by little and even that is enjoyable.

It came with a depth finder and LORAN but I picked up a Garmin 420 with GPS and I bought the g2 map card on ebay. I plan to install that in a new control panel I am designing this winter.

I love the boat. It will probably end up costing me close to the 7,000 I could have bought one for that needed less work when I1m done, but, It is the most versatile boat, you can fish, ski, pull a tube and take it in the ocean (on a good day I would go out farther)

I don`t know what you paid for yours, but all of the things you have mentioned have happened to me and others on this site. But, I have seen this boat listed for much higher prices and feel that it is a good boat that, with a little expense will offer years of pleasure.

Last, try to learn as much about boating and trailering as you can, once you start docking at marinas and launching on boat ramps there are a ton of mistakes you can make.

Don`t fret too much about the gas tank, it`s a common problem and an easy fix, It might cost you a few hundred bucks, but you could always use a portable tank if needed until you get around to replacing it. That`s what I like about the boat, not everything has to be perfect to use and enjoy it. As time goes on, you can fix what you want.

Hope this helps

Enjoy your boat.

T
 

alantani

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had the same problem in my 1991 tournament 19. i had the local dealer install a factory tank. did't care about the money involved. i just didn't want to sell the boat and have any questions about the fuel system. the last thing i would want someone to do is drop a cigarette, have a fire on board and die in my old boat. alan
 

Parthery

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I had a late 80's 190 Tournament...the factory tank was made by RDS Marine Tanks of Perry FL.

Check their website (http://www.rdsaluminum.com). They made the tank and shipped it to me by UPS in less than a week. Fit like a glove.
 

Toad

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Can you inspect the tank without cutting the deck? On my 1995 195T the deck is solid with a scrbed line that would be cut to gain access to the tank.
The gas tank in my 192 is poly. If you email GW with your hull number , they will tell you what material was used in your original tank.
If you open the inspection port at the sender unit , about two feet forward of the OB well, you should see the fuel sender unit and the top of the tank. The sender unit gasket and the hoses to the motor are likely leakers. Also the fill hose which probably comes through the starboard storage compartment is a likely leaker. Should be double hose clamps at the fuel fill and where the hose attaches to the tank. Suggest you check these hoses before cutting the deck. If your tank is covered by a bolt down cover, like the larger GWs you are way ahead in making an inspection.
Good advice from earlier responders to get a tank from one of the original sources. I understand the fit is quite tight.
Aren't these boats fun? But, think of all you will learn about your rig in the process of making her right.
Good luck and Merry Christmas.
 

wireline

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Rennick it's not that bad , just replaced the tank in my 89 tournament 190 this summer. Not realy a bad job as long as you are handy and have some patience. First thing yes it most likley is the tank itself., pop off the acess panel tank should be alum. See the orig mfg lable should be RDS,
call rds speak to Sam. he knows just what you have. cost is abou $400 bucks + frt. I will be more than happy to give you step by step process of what I did but got to run right now be back soon. Hopefully I can help your processs be a bit less frustrating. Do you have a sawzal & a grinder or dremel tool?
 

rennick75

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thanks for the info

Sorry guys...i left town for a couple weeks and haven't checked in to this website in a while. I did catch up on posts and appreciate the help. I'll check with RDS for a new tank. First I'll have to get the gas out so we can pull up the tank. Good stuff...
 

jwebb

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I have a 1986 19 Tournament, which I just bought this past summer. I did have a problem with a hairline crack in the oil tank (had to replace), but I haven't noticed gas tank problems (gas smell, leaks, etc). Is this a cronic problem that warrants inspection of the tank, i.e. removal of the floor panel covering the tank?
 

BobP

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If you want to find out the condition of your gas tank, here are the choices:
wait for it to leak
pressure test it
or take it out of boat and inspect all sides.

That goes for any boat.

A chronic problem? Yes, owning a boat is a hole in the ocean that can never be filled.

Haven't you heard?
 

Jambo

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My 1997 Tournament 192 definitely has a leak in it's embedded poly tank. The floor does not have a removal panel for access, only the score marks marking the location of the panel. It certainly seems that I need to take the boat to a boatyard where they will cut out the fiberglass, remove the panel, put in a new tank, and patch the glass. I suppose I should pressure test the tank first to confirm the leak. Is there any advice anyone can offer as I can into this? It is looking like a big project.
Thanks.
 

Jambo

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Question: 1997 Tournament 192. Do I really need to cut the fiberglass deck to inspect my gas tank? Did GW not provide anyway to access the bilge except by cutting out the access panel? And if so, should I re-fiberglass the access panel after tank repair/replacement? Or adapt it so it can be accessed again the future?
Lots of questions. Thanks for any responses.
Chris
 

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DennisG01

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I don't know your boat well enough to say (and can't really tell from the picture), but if there is no removable panel (evidenced by a caulked seam and screws) or you can't slide the tank aft somehow to remove it, then I'm at a loss for how to remove it other than cutting floor. If no one else has an idea, then I would double check with Grady - but I really can't imagine how you would do it.

BUT... can you expand on how you came to the conclusion that your tank is leaking?
 

Parthery

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I too am surprised that a poly tank is leaking. Are you sure it's not either your fuel or vent hose succumbing to ethanol?
 

Jambo

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Dennis and Partery, thank you for prompt responses and interest. The end of the story is this: The poly tank is not leaking. The leak was from a poorly sealed fuel level sending unit. Apparently fuel would leak significantly from the poorly gasketed sender especially when grinding along at 12-15 mph through tough chop. By the time I had a chance to pop the access panel and check, the tank top around sender was clean and dry. (I wish my wife was brave enough to skipper this yacht. :<>< ) And the bilge has significant gas pooling.
The longer story ... I pulled the boat and trailered to my shop. I surveyed the deck surface and reached through the accesses to determine how to cut out the fiberglass and remove the access panel in order to pull the tank. It was apparent immediately that Grady did not design for this tank to come out as the "panel" over the tank does not align with the lines on the deck. In other words, serious fiberglass and plywood surgery, and one to be left to the pros. So, as I was preparing to syphon all the gas from the tank, I thought why not pressure test the tank to confirm the leak. I brought compressed through an improvised hose attached to the tank in place of the vent hose. With pressure at 8 lbs, air wheezed through the fuel sender seal. So I pulled the sender, blocked the sender hole to tank with a cloth, pressured again, and this time the poly tank slowly blew up like a balloon. While clearly not a long term low pressure test, this was good enough for me to deep six the fiberglass cutting concept and get onto fixing the sender seal. A new cork rubber gasket, some permatex on all surfaces, sender back in, and it looks tight and good to go. So far so good. Now my only problem is the sender doesn't work. :-| The float is probably stuck. I am reluctant for good reason to take the seal apart again so I will try two things: 1. Add fuel and use the boat. Maybe it will recover. And/or 2. Lightly pound the tank near the sender to possibly shake it back into operation. And lastly, bite the bullet and get a replacement sender. Thanks for listening.
 

Jambo

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This picture shows a sender much like mine. The difference is mine has a two wire pigtail (versus connectors). Thanks.
 

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DennisG01

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Good - that makes MUCH more sense why you had a leak! With one caveat... I'm not sure what tanks are rated for, but 8lbs actually seems like quite a bit and, truthfully, I'm not surprised that you were able to overcome that seal at 8lbs. IF (and I hope, for your sake that this truly is the leak source) that seal was allowing gas to simply slop out, then it seems reasonable that you wouldn't even need a single pound of pressure to cause air to escape from the seal. So I'm a little leery that this is your "leak point", but also hoping that it maybe was just an anomaly that it took that much pressure.

New senders are inexpensive and they come with gaskets. If that sender is original, it's 27 years old - I wouldn't call it "poorly" sealed... I would call it "way past it's 'best if used by' date"! :) Even if it is a replacement, these things need to be checked from time to time. Did you try tightening the screws, first?

A new seal SHOULD be fine by itself with no need for RTV. But, just be careful you didn't use too much RTV as you wouldn't want that getting into the tank and clogging your pickup. On the other hand, I would have no reservations about pulling the sender out (better than knocking on things with a hammer - things that are around gas tend to get brittle over time) and reusing the gasket.
 

Jambo

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Thanks yet again Dennis. I am going to replace the sender. Is there a source for a new sender that will exactly fit (5 screws, asymmetrical). I sent a note to WEMA and hopefully hear back. I could always go to my Grady dealer and get one....
C
 

Parthery

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X2 on WEMA. Get the length, call and order it, and UPS will bring it to your door in a few days. It will drop right in...connect the wires, and you are all set.