Fuel tank Senders

[92explorer]

Any special tricks to get these out. After the second phillips screw started to round out, I drilled and put an extractor into the first, did not drill deep enough and only the head snapped off. Hopefully when I get the rest of the screws out, I'll be able to use vise grips. Thanks

 

[BobP]

Get an assortment of screwdrivers to find the one that is tight and fits full. It myust fit tight with no play. I found a long handled Kobalt from the Depot or Lowes that is the ticket. Then grip the handle with both hands and lean down on the end of the handle and your two hand wrap like you are doing pushups, with all your weight on your chest and handle positioned there. Then it won't slip. Use your whole upper body to turn screw, not your hands.

When it moves a littte, go back and forth mant times, then take some more, then go back and forth some more, etc. Get some oil under it.

In any case, if the screwdriver slips and ruins the top of the screw, use a new pair of vice grips and clamp down very hard, and do the same as above.

The SS screw is much stronger than the 1/8 alum, no way head will go as long as you don't drill head guts out.

I have no idea how you are going to get the broken screw out, I would if all gas was out and no chance of explosion.

Good luck.

 

[catch22]

When it comes to stubborn screws... especially phillips heads that have stripped out, I use a cordless Dremel with a flat grinding disc. I simply cut a slot across the head and use a slotted screw driver.
I'd be real carefull around the fuel tank though. :shock:

 

[Little Buddy]

You could try using an impact driver that is used a lot on motorcycles for removing phillip head screws. You hit it with a hammer as you try to rotate and it helps to prevent the driver from slipping out. The impact also helps break up the corrosion sometimes. A none metalic hammer head would be best for use around fuel. Maybe use a liquid penetrant to help break up the corrosion between the stainless steel screw and the aluminum tank and let it soak for a few hours. Good luck I feel for you.

 

[PFB1769]

I had the same problem with not being able to get the screws out. I purchased a bit the was supposed to get out screws with stripped screw heads but all it did was snap off the screw heads. Fortunatly the old sender had a high profile plastic top and the new one had a low profile thin metal top Wema SSS/SSL. The remaining screws were long enough to pass thruogh the new sender head and the threads were still good so I was able to sercure the new sender to with 10-24 locking nuts with the nylon inserts. It actually worked out great.