Fuel/Water Filters ~ When is it time...

[awnuld]

.. to replace them.

The first time I took the boat out after changing the tank and all the hoses. My motor was having issues, and got a tow back. Upon returning I was able to empty water out of the bowl, I neglected the filter I suppose. That evening, I was able to empty it again. Two days later there was more liquid in the bowl- I emptied it and then tried to start up the motor and noticed the bowl was filling up again (even as I was priming) this time with more fuel than water.

Is my filter failing now? Are there tell tale signs? How often should it be changed, they're cheap enough I guess that they can be changed as preventive maintenance.

After reading posts here, it seems like it 'just happens' when you least expect it and to have spare handy.



Just asking.. thanks.

 

[plymouthgrady]

IF YOU'RE SEPARATING WATER OUT, YOUR FILTER IS ACTUALLY WORKING. THAT'S WHATS NICE ABOUT THE BOWL, YOU CAN KEEP BLEEDING THE WATER OFF. W/ THE AMOUNT OF WATER YOU'RE DESCRIBING, IT SOUNDS LIKE IT'S MORE THAN JUST CONDENSATION & E10. JUST KEEP DOING IT UNTIL YOU GET STRAIGHT FUEL-AND RUN W/ EXTRA FILTERS.
BTW, WHAT MICRON ARE YOU USING?

 

[awnuld]

It a Mallory 10 Micron filter. I was getting some water, but the last bit was just fuel.

So.. Is it normal to have liquid (fuel) running thru the bowl at all times while motor is primed and running? Or should it be dry during this time?

If so then I'm having more than filter issues. My motor keeps shutting off.

 

[plymouthgrady]

10 mic. is fine but your engine "shutting off"-Is it coughing and stalling out?
Also engine M/M/Y

 

[awnuld]

it's a 1984 150hp johnson o/b. was told the upper unit was rebuilt in '06.

It's coughing, running a little rough then shuts off after a time. I have to throttle it to keep it alive, the choke helps some too.

The spark plugs on one side look like they could be replaced. The guy who sold it to me gave a box with some spares in it.

 

[plymouthgrady]

Sounds like you have a potential fuel/carb problem. 1st, replace the plugs w/ a new set. Go to a marine store and they will look them up for you. I'd also add some Startron.
If you have to choke it to get it to run, your having "fuel starvation". Check all the male/female connections to make sure you're not taking air in anywhere but my money's on the carb.
What is it idling at when it is running smooth? May be too low.

 

[awnuld]

yeah, it's running really low. No gauges or anything to tell rpms etc.

Will check everything out and look at getting new sparks. I also have a manual, so may look at that .

So is the filter bowl supposed to run dry or is there supposed to be liquid running thru?

 

[plymouthgrady]

I think, by design, it has to be full. Doesn't it screw onto an open ended filter? (That plastic clear bowl is re-usable)

 

[awnuld]

I did just replace the tank and all hoses. maybe there's something I over looked. never did a thing with the filter, just hooked up the hoses and filled it up.

Perhaps air is getting in somehow like you mentioned. Like it would need to be bled out.

I'll have to inspect the filter.

 

[TBone]

Dont know if this helps, but this was my experience this spring.

1994 Yamaha SWS 200's

I ran both my tanks dry to get rid of last years gas. After refueling fired

her back up then tried too run her some more. My starboard motor then

began to faulter and stall. Took it back to the dock and couldnt get it to run.

Changed all the plugs and check the filters. Like you, had to choke it to

stay running. At this point i was getting quite scared to run it, and it didnt

sound like it was running on all jugs. Kept checking the plugs, only left

side of the motor was getting fuel, the other side bone dry. It took some

time but after a while I got it to run on all cyls like there was never a prob.

What was happening, I believe, was that the right side of the motor was

not getting fuel because possibly the fuel had a hard time priming up the

carbs? Maybe floats were stickng in the carb? weak fuel pumps? or just

the garbage left in the bottom of the tank not firing?

After the fuel made it too the cyls no problems, ran as good as new all

summer. I did buy four new fuel pumps and kept them on the boat just

in case. I plan on cleaning the carbs out this winter too.

 

[plymouthgrady]

my 2nd guess was the floats.

 

[awnuld]

Thanks for the input.

Next plan of attack.. replace the filter, plugs, and look at/replace the fuel pumps.

I'm guessing this hasn't been done in a while. On one side the plugs are looking kinda crusty. Good thing actually, so then I'll be sure what was done when, all part of getting to know the boat.

The seller also gave me a manual for the evinrude/johnson engines for that time period. So I'll see what it has to say.

 

[Grog]

If putting the choke on helps then you're running lean. It can be the fuel pumps or carbs. Whichever the cause, it will destroy the engine. If you squeeze the primer bulb and it helps, it's most likely the fuel pumps.

 

[seasick]

I don't like the running the carbs dry approach. Some folks add stabil to the fuel and run the engine to make sure the carb bowls have treated gas.
Some of my friends put Marvel mystery Oil in their carbs for storage.
The probem with running dry is that the gaskets and seals in the carbs may dry out.

 

[Reel Passion]

I have question regarding spin on filters... When replacing do you fill the new filter with fuel or install dry??

 

[awnuld]

I found a post somewhere on this board where it was said to put fuel in the filter and line the rubber gasket with oil before twisting on.

If you search you may find it, I think it was from BobP, but not sure.

found it.

http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtop ... ght=filter

 

[awnuld]

Okay, I installed a new fuel/water filter and changed the spark plugs. The sparks were in pretty bad shape.

After having to recharge the battery the engine fired up well and kept running for sometime. So I think I'm good for a while- need to get it in the water but not sure when I'll get to go out. I haven't received my sea tow membership card yet.

One thing though, it seems like I'm loosing compression at some point, in one of the cylinders ?
I'll have to pay closer attention and see if it happens with some consistency, I even took video that I may post for looking at. Maybe some of you guys can tell just by seeing the exhaust and how it's firing..

thanks for the help.

 

[BobP]

There may be a misconception about the the filter's ability to seperate out water, if overwelmed it can't. So if you pumped pure water (and or alcohol) into it, enough of it, pure water ends up in motor.

Water seperates out of fuel since water is much heavier, that's all it does, like it does in bottom of gas tank.

The filters with no bowls do the same as long as mounted vertically as it is, but don't afford the ability to drain off the bottom, periodically.

Also, since these filters hold a lot of fluid, it is best to prefill them prior to screwing on. You don't have to fill all the way so it spills over, just enough to get it up close to top, you will see the level rise inside.
If you don't prefill, there's a lot of pumping to do with squeeze bulb, otherwise engine may run dry and stall prior to getting fuel thru filter.

The clear bowl affords the opportunity to view if there are two colors in there, notteh usual single color, make sure the boat is settled for some time before viewing, otherwise it will mix up when disturbed.

 

[BobP]

By the way, the only way to know when the filter media is filled up, is with a pressure gauge across the filter, a clogged media creates a large pressure drop across it , only so much is OK.

For the rest of us without the pressure gauges, once a season is enough. More if you just changed over to E10, or just bought a boat used, etc.

If you are careful and can sowk safely, you can cut the filer open later to see what's in it, I always did this with my car gas filters.

 

[plymouthgrady]

Before you go out for a ride, I strongly recommend at least putting the engine in a barrel or giving it a good in-gear test when it is on the trailer at the ramp.
By putting the muffs on, you will cool the block but you don't create any back pressure on it. Basically, it will run fine all day long on the trailer w/ the muffs but as soon as you put a load on it-driving across the harbor- it will act up and stall. Think of in the driveway as a controlled test and on the water as a field test.