Garboard Drain Plug Sealing

[Capt Khaos]

I know this was discussed and someone described in detail, with pictures, the whole process of correctly sealing the garboard drain from water intrusion. I've been searching for an hour with no luck. Can anyone please provide a link to the pics of the repair? I recently pulled the boat out and want to be sure the transom is sealed inside and out. I also plan to replace the plastic cockpit drains and hoses. My boat is a 2002 and the hoses are showing signs of cracking. I'm sure the plastic drains aren't far behind. Thanks in advance for any help.
Cheers,
Dan

 

[seasick]

If you remove the drain, clean the hole ( really clean it) and coat the inside with epoxy.
Use 5200 in the screw holes, on the screws and under the flange and reattach the drain. If the screw hols are loose, you can use longer screws ( not too long of course) or drill new holes. Fill the old holes with the same epoxy that you sealed the drain hole with.

 

[no problem]

I love 5200 but if you ever want to remove that drain again be ready to remove at least the gelcoat under it and maybe some fiberglass. Don't ask me how I know this. :wink: Since screws provide the mechanical fastening I would use 4200 or some other semi permanent sealant, not necessarily a permanent adhesive. Just my $.02

 

[gunit1400]

At the factory, the raw wood in the transom is sealed with resin putty, then that is covered with 5200. Garboard drain installed with 5200, stainless screws

 

[BobP]

Check plastic thru hulls by inspecting inner surface of opening about the opening, this is where they usually crack, look for a fine line in line with hull and extending around.

It's already leaking at that point, if the hull is cored, it can be compromised.

 

[richie rich]

gunit1400 Posted: Jun Tue 01, 2010 12:23 am Post subject:

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At the factory, the raw wood in the transom is sealed with resin putty

I wish that were true....would have saved me (and others) a lot of work.........

 

[Capt Khaos]

Garboard Drain

Thanks for the replies guys but I thought I'd seen a repair that used PVC pipe. I removed a big blob of 5200? from around the inside of the hole but no way was it preventing water from contacting the wood. Also, if there was epoxy on the exposed wood I sure can't see it. The wood is wet but solid. I'm glad I opened it up. If I can't find a better way I'm gonna seal a piece of 1" ? PVC pipe through the hole with 5200 and put a good bead on the inside. Then I'll use 5200 to seal the inside of the drain flange to the PVC and the transom. I believe this should work. Are you sure nobody posted pics of this type of repair?

 

[gunit1400]

sorry, I know that is the way it is supposed to be done, how I did it whenever I was asked to help out in hull prep. All holes drilled through the hull, above and below the waterline, were suppposed to be sealed with resin putty, then when fitting (thru hull, garboard drain, etc) is installed, it was to be totally sealed with 5200.

 

[richie rich]

Capt.
if you go the route you mentioned I still think you need to dry the wood thoroughly before sealing it with 5200.....there aren't too many things that like to stick to wet wood...I used a heat gun set on low for several hours to get dry wood with a little depth, then I epoxied it, then I installed the drain with 5200...just as Seasick described..if you don't dry it, I think you'll fill the void between the parts but water will still continue to soak in over time.

 

[richie rich]

gunit1400 Posted: Jun Tue 01, 2010 10:32 am Post subject:

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sorry, I know that is the way it is supposed to be done, how I did it whenever I was asked to help out in hull prep. All holes drilled through the hull, above and below the waterline, were suppposed to be sealed with resin putty, then when fitting (thru hull, garboard drain, etc) is installed, it was to be totally sealed with 5200.

That would be the proper way.....unfortunately, not one area on my boat was done that way, garboard drain, deck drain and scupper thru-hull, engine cable thru-hulls were all exposed...no resin......same with the stringers and bulkheads...all exposed endgrain left unsealed...when I asked GW why that did that they said they left it up to the treated wood to do its job...nice

 

[gunit1400]

Richie Rich,
As a former employee of GW, and as someone would took their job very seriously, I apologize for the problems you and others have experienced. I will say that even though I haven't worked there for a little over 2 years, I know that GW took (and still does) great pride in "Together, delivering the ultimate boating experience". I know that in the years I was there, there were guidelines to be followed when it came to protecting all wood, and foam that could possibly be exposed to water intrusion.

 

[richie rich]

Gunit,
no reason to apologize to me...I knew at the time buying an older boat will have it plus's and minus's.....it's given me plenty of good times over the years......I just hope 10 years from now when I get another "new to me-used" GW, owners on this forum aren't still complaining about the same things.....I'll be too old by then to do a project like this again. I'll have to buy a plastic kayak instead. :lol:

Capt Khaos...sorry for derailing your thread.