Gauges not working and overheat warning

[alwood0422]

I have a new to me 1987 206 Overnighter that was fresh water only and is in very good condition. I took it out for a sea trial and saw the water pump was spitting water inconsistently and then got a overheat alarm. I still bought it and immediately took it in for a new pump and engine look over. They found a bad impeller and replaced that along with a head gasket and stator. I ran it hard this weekend and the alarm went off again for a minute, then stopped, good water running out of the engine. Alarm did not come on at all the rest of the outing. Is there any way I can put a temp gauge on the boat and run it off the alarm sensor wire? I am wondering if anyone has experience with these ghosts?

Secondly, my RPM gauge runs to about 1000 RPM and then drops dead, if I tap it, it blinks up for a sec and drops off. Lastly my trim gauge does not work at all? Do I just start testing the wiring behind the gauge panel, or is there something specific? thoughts?

I might as well though in the hydrolic steering being sluggish. I noticed after I got back to the dock that it was very low on oil. So I topped it with ATF like the manual said and a lot of air burped out. Do I also need to bleed the lines?

Overall the boat ran and performed well all weekend. I had the hull looked over by a fiberglass guy and it was pronounced sound.

Thanks in advance for any advice or info. I wonder if the right thing to do is taking it to the Grady Dealer 2.5 hours away and let them go over it. I would like to do as much myself though, gets me more familiar with the boat.

Alan

 

[catch22]

When you had the pump replaced, did you also have the thermostats changed? If not, I would replace them.

You can install an after market temp gauge. Get one with the right sensor, and it should thread right into your engine, (on one of the heads).
I would not cut into your temp sensor wires. You'll have to run a seperate wire, unless you have one in the harness that's not being used.

Rpm gauge problem sounds like a lose connection. Sometimes a flickering tach is a sign that your rectifier is going bad. Another indication is your voltage will climb higher than normal, (with higher rpm's). If your voltage is ok, I'd check out the wiring connections. Also, some universal gauges have a small selection dial, on the back of the gauge. You could try switching it back and forth to other settings, and then return it to the proper setting. Just make sure you take note of what it is set on.

If your hydraulic steering is Teleflex, (Seastar) your really not supposed to use atf fluid, (only in an emergency). Now that it's in there, I don't know what to tell you. Many boat supply stores sell Seastar fluid... it's expensive though.
If your getting bubbles or froth, you've got air in the system and you definitely need to bleed it. Since the level was low, you also have a leak. Could be at the end glands, (seals) on the ram, or at the helm. Replacement glands are available, and so is the shaft seal for the helm.

Your going to have to fix any leaking and then bleed the system.

Here's a link for bleeding;

http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBOARD ... urge.htm&1

 

[BobP]

on the T&T, the trim sensor is probably shot, filled with water, and it ain't cheap a replacemnt (what OEM part is ?), why bother, you should be able to eyeball the motor trim and go with that.

You may want to preshop for a replacement motor, just in case, many guys updating to 4 strokes and looking to sell. You can get a good old early 90's motor for $1000 bucks with sea trail. Keep in garage as spare.

So when the lower unit goes and they tell you $1400 for a rebuild lower unit, you can pop on spare motor. And take a $400 vacation.

 

[BobP]

I think if the T&T sensor or wiring shorts out, the current is limited due to gauge resistance, I think. To be on the safe side, disconnect the wiring to the circuit, don't want main engine fuse to blow.

When my trim sensor failed, it pegged the gauge like it was trying to turn the gauge into a drill motor.

 

[alwood0422]

Thanks for the info, the steering is Marol and it lists ATF right in the Manual as an acceptable fluid. So I am going to assume it is okay. The only comment was that in very cold weather it will make the steering harder. I'll start looking for a leak.
The trim gauge is pegged at full up, Its not my top priority to fix but its not working, so its on the list.
I have a voltage gauge in there, and it only reads slightly higher than 12v. I will stick a meter on it to get a true reading. Also on the tach. What should the voltage be on the tach?
The water pump was all that was replaced. Good idea on the stats, I'll look into it. I was shocked at the price on the stator, part price was $400 plus labor. :shock:

Again thanks for the help and ideas, I'll start taking apart the dash.

 

[catch22]

Tach works off of pulses, depending on the number of cylinders. That's why I suggested you try rotating the selector switch back and forth, on the back of the tach, (if it has one). Thought maybe it got jared from pounding. Not 100% sure about voltage reading, but I think you should see about 4 or 5 volts AC, (not DC) on the snd, (sender) connection, with the motor running.

When you turn your ignition key to "on", does the tach go to "0"? If it doesn't, you may have a bad power connection.

Your tach might be bad, and the only practical way to check it is to try another tach. If you can get a hold of another one, you can tap into it back at the outboard, if you like. Usually grey wire from rectifier, and of course + power and grnd. This way you take all the wiring up at the dash, out of the picture. I still think there's a bad connection somewhere, especialy since they replaced your stator, (source of the pulses). A big coincidence? You may want to let them look into it for you.

As far as voltage reading, just over 12 sounds good. Can't hurt to check it with a multi meter. Take a reading directly on a battery, with the motor off. Run your motor while still reading voltage. You should see a slight increase, (1 or 2 volts) that shows your charging system is working ok. Rectifier/regulator keeps voltage from climbing too high with rpm increase.

 

[Grog]

Don't forget about the poppet valve while it's in for the t-stats.

 

[BobP]

I think on the OMCs, the poppet and thermostats are all in the same assemply and get replaced together. The poppet is the ribber seal looking thing with the coil spring that seats to it.

Like my lingo ?