hi all... could anyone recommend a good polish and wax for my grady. I bought her last year and the boat has a light white powder residue when i rub my hand over it.. I plan to polish it myself either by hand or polishing wheel... also i need a good bottom paint too thanks to all..
good polishing wax
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For your application, I recommend "3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound" followed by a nice top coat (or two) of Collinte Fleet Wax #885. Read and follow the instructions on the 3M Super Duty. And, when you apply the Collinite - do NOT let it dry to a haze. You want to apply it and remove it within 5 minutes. If you let it dry to a haze, you will have a very hard time getting it off (and completely not necessary). Good luck!
You might want to try something like this first. As a general detailing rule, you want to use the least abrasive product possible. Try this before bringing out the big guns. http://3mmarine.com/products/compounds- ... 36109.html
I just used this on our new to us 2003 258 that had a definite layer of chalking. http://3mmarine.com/products/compounds- ... 36106.html
It worked great with a good buffing machine and a wool compounding pad. What I like is that it combines the compounding with a finish coat of wax - i.e. One step.
It worked great with a good buffing machine and a wool compounding pad. What I like is that it combines the compounding with a finish coat of wax - i.e. One step.
depending on the level of oxidation:
step 1: Using a good rotary and oscillating wheel apply rubbing compound (medium or heavy - I would try medium first).
step 2: After removing the rubbing compound, wash the entire hull with Dawn dishwashing detergent.
step 3: Apply Collinites 920 cleaner. apply with the buffer, remove by hand and then polish with with the buffer using a microfiber pad.
STep 4: Apply Collinites 885 paste wax. apply by hand, heat up with the buffer, remove by hand and do a final polish with the buffer using a microfiber pad. if you really want a long lasting application perform this step twice - allow 12 hours between applications.
My 360 is 11 years old. It looks like brand new. People at the marina cannot believe the shine - even compared to new boats. I have used this process forever and it works. if you don't have a buffer - you need one. I suggest the Porter Cable. good luck.
step 1: Using a good rotary and oscillating wheel apply rubbing compound (medium or heavy - I would try medium first).
step 2: After removing the rubbing compound, wash the entire hull with Dawn dishwashing detergent.
step 3: Apply Collinites 920 cleaner. apply with the buffer, remove by hand and then polish with with the buffer using a microfiber pad.
STep 4: Apply Collinites 885 paste wax. apply by hand, heat up with the buffer, remove by hand and do a final polish with the buffer using a microfiber pad. if you really want a long lasting application perform this step twice - allow 12 hours between applications.
My 360 is 11 years old. It looks like brand new. People at the marina cannot believe the shine - even compared to new boats. I have used this process forever and it works. if you don't have a buffer - you need one. I suggest the Porter Cable. good luck.
Dunno,
Like anything boating or fishing related what is the right thing, best or easiest can be debated and is a matter of preference. I used to do the two / three step of compound, clean and wax/polish and one year my boat was at a public yard when I saw the service staff using the 3M two in one wax for lightly oxidized fiberglass. I tried it and never looked back. I like to apply by hand and buff it off. We still get comments about how our 03 looks brand new. We do a full wash n wax in the spring and again in mid season when we haul for 100 outboard service. Any stubborn stains we can lift off with compound or acetone. Just my two cents. I will try to add a photo of the hull from last spring is I can figure out how to.
Like anything boating or fishing related what is the right thing, best or easiest can be debated and is a matter of preference. I used to do the two / three step of compound, clean and wax/polish and one year my boat was at a public yard when I saw the service staff using the 3M two in one wax for lightly oxidized fiberglass. I tried it and never looked back. I like to apply by hand and buff it off. We still get comments about how our 03 looks brand new. We do a full wash n wax in the spring and again in mid season when we haul for 100 outboard service. Any stubborn stains we can lift off with compound or acetone. Just my two cents. I will try to add a photo of the hull from last spring is I can figure out how to.
This is all I could find at work, two or three years ago but still looks the same.
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IMG00360-20120308-1723.jpg
I have been using Garys since I saw a commercial crew using it at a marina.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Harvey-W...6354&wl11=online&wl12=158460806&wl13=&veh=sem
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Harvey-W...6354&wl11=online&wl12=158460806&wl13=&veh=sem
If your gelcoat is oxidized and chalky you will need to do some work to get it back to being shiny again. There are several products that can do this, many products are just personal preference. You will probably need to start with compounding and then work up from there. I have used the 3m products for this in the past, starting with rubbing compound followed by finesse it then wax or a polish. I have been using starbrite cleaner and polish for the hull and top sides. I have tried a number of products with similar results. The starbright stuff goes on and comes off easy. Plus it has held up well. I typically use a machine when applying products, I have found it to be easier, and more efficient.
thank u all or feedback........... eppem what is the name of the 2 in 1 compound/wax.. so it is just one step ?
also.. do i have to tape over the grady white decals and striping, or can i compound and wax over them.. thanks
Fishtales
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I use the Collinite 920 cleaner followed by Meguairs Marine wax. You may want to compound first if real chalky, I've used Dupon #7 cut 50/50 with water in the past. Ok to go over the stripe, just don't stay on it too long. I second the polisher. Here is a decent one that won't break the bank. https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-742 ... B002654I46
I use the wheel and polishers from the Chemical guys on the web.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009902XR0/re ... 38462&sr=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009902YHO/re ... 38462&sr=2
I use the wheel and polishers from the Chemical guys on the web.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009902XR0/re ... 38462&sr=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009902YHO/re ... 38462&sr=2
Its 3m
http://www.detailing.com/store/3m-marin ... 32-oz.html
make sure you buy for lightly oxidized hulls etc. I try to avoid the name, etc but you can wipe it right off any that gets on the lettering. No damage.
http://www.detailing.com/store/3m-marin ... 32-oz.html
make sure you buy for lightly oxidized hulls etc. I try to avoid the name, etc but you can wipe it right off any that gets on the lettering. No damage.
I stopped using any of the wax products for 4 years now, Use the Magic buff and pro polish now. I get compliments all the time on how my mid 80's grady shines. It lasts from spring to late fall. Not to say the wax did not shine better, because it did. But the pro polish lasts longer...on the topside anyway
1st year I did it I did one side with wax and the other with the pro polish. By July I had to clean and polish the waxed side.
1st year I did it I did one side with wax and the other with the pro polish. By July I had to clean and polish the waxed side.