Grady 22 tournament battery problem

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fgunnr

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I have a 1997 Tournament 22 with a 97 Yamaha 225 motor. After owning the boat for two years I am having a battery issue. I have dual batteries with a master switch. I always turn the battery switch off before I have the boat put in dry storage. Now every time I get the boat out the batteries are discharged. This started a couple of months ago and happens every time. One of the batteries is less than 6 months old.

Even if the master switch is bad I should have enough charge to start the engine. I get the boat out every couple of weeks. Once the engine is jump started the batteries charge up and work normally until it sits up for a couple of weeks.

Any suggestions on where to look to solve this problem?

Thanks
 
Once the engine is jump started the batteries charge up ..

Do the batteries 'charge up' from a charger or the engine? Unless you run the engine for a couple days (assuming the engine charges at all), the batteries are very unlikely to reach full charge. I'm guessing you're putting a couple of depleted batteries to bed and they die between uses. :?
 
The batteries charge up normally with the engine running. If I am using the boat several days in a row I have no problem. Even after 2 weeks the engine will start with both batteries. The batteries only totally discharge after 2 weeks of storage.

One of the batteries is only 6 months old.
 
Several things to check:
Use a voltmeter to see what the battery voltage is when you end a trip ( all devices off) and then see what it is after it has been sitting.
A load test will tell you if you have a battery problem but you would have to remove the batteries and bring them to a store for a test.
Three things are possible: Batteries are bad. Batteries are not getting charged during trip ( check charging voltage at cruise and battery voltage after trip) ( if batteries are not sealed, check water level)

Batteries have some sort of load on them. This could be as simple as a corroded battery switch which is making an unintended connection instead of a full disconnect. You could also have a conductive path somewhere near the switch terminals;look for white stuff.


Do you have a charger connected?
Do you have anything directly connected to battery 2? ( battery 1 should have bilge pump connections)
 
When running on charged batteries the gauge shows 14+. The last time it would not start the gauge showed 9.6.

What about 2 new batteries and a new battery switch? This might cost me less than a mechanic trying to solve the problem with the existing batteries and switch.

thanks
 
There are a few things that come to mind.
A: remove the battery and fully Charge.
B: Have battery Load Teasted.
C: check with meter to see if switch is working. (shutting off power test for power after the switch)
D: Check for short - Disconnect the battery, put test light between the pos on the battery and the Pos cable. If it lights you have a ground somewhere.

Hope you get it figured out.

You could replace eveything, however that may not solve the problem. I would think it better to find the problem.
 
Even after 2 weeks the engine will start with both batteries. The batteries only totally discharge after 2 weeks of storage.

Now I'm confused. Will each battery start the engine, or will the batteries start the engine when on BOTH? You can try a new switch and batteries, but I'm betting that treats the symptoms and not the cause. Which '97 Yamaha 225 ... :?
 
I have to select both on the switch to get the engine to start.

The motor is a Yamaha Model S225TXRV
 
Assuming you don't have an insidious current leak, I'm betting you have a vicious cycle centering around never having a decent charge on the batteries. It takes a long time with an outboard at pretty good RPM to fully charge a depleted battery, even longer for two. If you put 'em to bed in a marginal state of charge, they self-discharge to a point they won't start the engine singly. I think your solution is obtaining a means to charge 'em other than your engine. New batteries and switch is a band-aid ... :?
 
Curmudgeon said:
Assuming you don't have an insidious current leak, I'm betting you have a vicious cycle centering around never having a decent charge on the batteries. It takes a long time with an outboard at pretty good RPM to fully charge a depleted battery, even longer for two. If you put 'em to bed in a marginal state of charge, they self-discharge to a point they won't start the engine singly. I think your solution is obtaining a means to charge 'em other than your engine. New batteries and switch is a band-aid ... :?
Click to expand...
Quite possible that the batteries are not getting charged.
I never start on BOTH. I usually select one battery for that day and run on it alone.
If you alwyas have to select BOTH to start the motor then they are either bad or not charged. ( or you have a bad connection causing a voltage drop)
 
Deka one of the largest and Exide the oldest battery maker in the country ONLY warranty MARINE batteries for ONE season because they sit for most of the year...if a battery does not cycle up and down constantly...LIKE IN YOUR CAR...they go dead...end of story.
 
DB said:
Deka one of the largest and Exide the oldest battery maker in the country ONLY warranty MARINE batteries for ONE season because they sit for most of the year...if a battery does not cycle up and down constantly...LIKE IN YOUR CAR...they go dead...end of story.
Click to expand...
Old wives tale...
heat kills wet cell batteries. yes they lose somee capacity over time but not in one year.
 
ON THAT MOTOR HAS A 3 PHASE CHARGING SYSTEM IT CAN HAVE AUX CHARGE LEAD IT CAN BE HOOKED UP RIGHT TO BATTERY AND NOT AT BATTERY SWITCH . AND IF REGULITOR HAS A PROBLEM IN THE TIRO INSIDE THE REGUITOR IT CAN DISCHARGE BATTERY AFTER SITTING.
 
Thanks for all of the reply's.

Here is where I am.

#1 battery was charged to 100% which took 12 hours at a 2 amp charge. #2 battery would not take a charge. In replacing the battery a positive lead was found which had been draining the battery. This has been repaired and my last outing started and ended well.

Question Should I start and run with the switch on both and only choose a battery when using electronics when the engine is shut down?

I usually start on 1 and switch to 2 during the trip. On the next trip I start on 2 and switch to 1 during the trip.

Thanks
 
THAT IS A GOOD WAY TO KEEP ALL BATTS UP ONLY USE BOTH IF ONE BATT GOES LOW THEN START ON BOTH RUN FOR SOME TIME THEN SWITCH BACK TO BATT THAT WAS LOW AND SEE IF MOTOR WILL START IF IT WILL START THEN JUST RUN ON THAT BATT TO CHARGE SOME MORE. U SHOULD NEVER SWITCH BATT SWITCH WITH MOTOR RUNNING. HARD ON THE STATOR AND REG/RECT. IT SHOULD SAY THAT ON YOUR FRONT OF YOUR BATT SWITCH NEVER SWITCH WHEN RUNNING.
 
I usually start on 1 and switch to 2 during the trip. On the next trip I start on 2 and switch to 1 during the trip.

Without getting into combiners and all that other monkey madness, that's sure how I'd do it except I use the same battery all day. I look at BOTH as an emergency procedure to get my engine started so I can go on home, if it's the start of the day, that makes it the end of the day unless I'm staying local. Look into that aux lead from the engine to battery #2 ... :wink:
 
I do the same thing run on 1 or the other but I do it randomly. If I am sitting in one spot at anchor for awhile I will keep tabs on my battery state. To date I have not had any problems of running both batteries dead doing it this way.
 
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