Grady drive corrosion and soda blasting questions??

John-

That looks great! Bracket wasn't in too bad a shape after blasting. Looked much worse before.

Why did you leave a 1" gap between hull and bracket for the Interlux 2000E? 2000E is a barrier coat product, is fine for all surfaces. The '1" gap' rule refers to space needed between your aluminum drive and copper-based paint you put on the hull. So you paint the hull up to 1" from the bracket, then paint bracket and 1" gap with Trilux 33.

What kind of anti-fouling paint did you put on the hull ontop of the 2000E?
 
Oh crap, running over to paint the gap, getting dumped in at 5pm, thanks again!!
 
Hull: 3 coats 2000E, 2 coats Micro CSC.

transducers: 2 coats MDR

As far as the gap: :noob
 
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Sweet. Looks better than my Seafarer! You are good-to-go now! Congrats on the great job and best of luck w/ your new bottom & bracket!
 
I pulled my 232 Gulfstream and have spent several days prepping the aluminum motor bracket for painting. I found a lot of new corrosion and quite a bit that was painted over by the previous owner. I think it's in pretty good shape now and I'm ready to prime and paint. I've read here that some motor brackets have a zinc between the motors and it's something I think I'll do before painting. If I understand the calculation I think I need a zinc about 5" X 6". Anyone have a recommendation? How about zincs on the Bennett tabs?
 
The zinc on those Springfield drives is about a 1x8 or something like that..look at the pictures in the thread......you have to match the screw holes with the zinc or drill and tap your own...just make sure its sitting on bare metal not paint...either mask off the area before painting or sand to bare metal after painting......The original Bennett tabs are stainless I believe.....I didn't have them originally on mine, but I added a small zinc just in case.....I used a small thin piece but I have seen people use small donut shaped pieces as well...you don't need much on the tabs....