Grady Stringers and Knees?

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NHAngler

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I have not seen too many discussions or online videos regarding replacing Grady White stringers. However, there are quite a few transom videos. More common I guess given it’s more exposed and prone to fail… and not just for Grady White but many other brands.

Since it seems like a transom May be the first to fail (as it soaking up some water), how long does it take before that water in the transom affects the knees into the stringers? I know the amount of moisture and problem source will affect this but let’s say a boat docked in saltwater has a couple of leaking bolts/ screws due to bad seals.. how long will it take to get to the stringer and is there typically a barrier between the stringers and inside of the transom?

Asking as I ran into a boat that I like but the survey came back with a wet transom. The broker is saying it's not an issue and there are lots of boats with wet transoms. I'm going to offer my thoughts on that along with a potential offer. However, I also know that a transom replacement (done correctly) can skyrocket from just under 10K to who knows how high if the knees and strings need repair. I have a friend that is having his transom done soon and the current estimate w/o any stringer issues is $12K.
 
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It is hard to estimate how slowly or quickly moisture will travel. There are a lot of variables including the climate the boat is stored and operated in.
With respect to a wet transom, 'wet' is not terminal always. The problem with moisture is when it leads to core rot and delamination.
Wet coring can dry out although that can take a very long time. Rot is rot and it isn't going away. I expect to find somewhat elevated levels of moisture in most transoms but elevated is also relative. Oftentimes Grady locker lids are 'wetter' than the transom. You just don't see it until the lids start to flex, crack or fall apart. Measuring higher moisture levels in and around the garboard drain, transducers, trim tabs, or motor mounting bolts is kind of to be expected over time. Finding that wetness and rebedding screws and bolts will reduce the chances of serious damage. Of course, that bang caps are often a source of water problems, but being diligent in making sure the caps are routinely checked and edges/seams caulked is important

For wet transoms here are companies that drill a bunch o small holes and attach hoses from the holes to a vacuum system to suck out moisture. A type of foam can be injected into the holes to repair local soft spots. I have no hands on experience with those services. In all cases, the source of the water ingress has to be remedied as part of the repair.

With respect to knees and stringers, more often than not, water seeps into the joints through stress cracks that may be related to movement of the transom due to rot, mush, abuse and over powering the hull.
 
Thanks. Not sure if I agree with a wet transom ever drying out. For that to happen, there needs to be air (preferably warm dry air). Regarding the hole drilling / vacuum, I've seen references to that but would love to see the before and after results from a moisture meter. If you are going to go through that much trouble, I'd say cut the sucker open and do it with the proper materials (Coosa / composite).

My question was really focuses don the stringer / knees. I guess a moisture test and limited visual inspection can be made but on most models, those are very thick and cannot truly know what's inside nearest the core.
 
Nothing to do with this post but the ads are getting beyond annoying. I get that they need to be there but they are duplicating and in some cases, seeing up to 4 of the same ad, same vendor all inline between the posts. Sometimes adjacent to posts, making everything hard to read.
 
NHAngler said:
Nothing to do with this post but the ads are getting beyond annoying. I get that they need to be there but they are duplicating and in some cases, seeing up to 4 of the same ad, same vendor all inline between the posts. Sometimes adjacent to posts, making everything hard to read.
Click to expand...
Someone already wrote in in another of your complaint,
just pay a small amount to GreatGrady.com and there will be no Ads.
Chris
 
NHAngler said:
Nothing to do with this post but the ads are getting beyond annoying. I get that they need to be there but they are duplicating and in some cases, seeing up to 4 of the same ad, same vendor all inline between the posts. Sometimes adjacent to posts, making everything hard to read.
Click to expand...
wait, are you saying there are ads throughout the page? i only see one at the very top of the page and one at the very bottom of the page.
 
NHAngler, do you know how the stringers/knees are built? I do not, but... if the interior transom first gets a layer of glass before the stringers/knees are laid up against it, then there should be zero transfer of moisture. I would "think" that's the way it's done... but then one would also "think" that a giant gap isn't left underneath the transom cap......... :p
 
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DennisG01 said:
NHAngler, do you know how the stringers/knees are built? I do not, but... if the interior transom first gets a layer of glass before the stringers/knees are laid up against it, then there should be zero transfer of moisture. I would "think" that's the way it's done... but then one would also "think" that a giant gap isn't left underneath the transom cap......... :p
Click to expand...
I can only say that I’ve seen photos and videos and know what you are referring to. I agree with that too and don’t think there would be transfer of moisture unless there were penetrations into the knees and stringers. However, I’m likely going to pass on the boat in question. I thought about making them an offer I could not refuse but if they bite, I might still regret it as I really don’t need an other project right now and think I need something more turnkey.
 
Broker: "There are a lot of boats with wet transoms.". True - many are GW's! Especially those pre-2000. Typically starts at bang cap.

The hull is assembled into the fiberglass shell and then glass wrapped. When water gets in it stays there it stays there. It can travel thru transom to stringers - they are not capped but glassed in. You really can't get the water out.

Just because the transom is wet doesn't mean your motors are falling off. Depending on the type of wood it takes time for the wood to delaminate and rot. More likely to have freeze damage swelling. When you see movement in the motors or vertical crack you are seeing the transom tearing out.

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I think 15k is a good estimate for a transom job. You didn't post any pictures so it's hard to tell. Look for cracks underneath rub rain and if transom is swollen under bang cap. This does sound like a project boat. Buying it cheap may not work. What do you want to do? Have a boat to work on or a boat to use ASAP.
 
DennisG01 said:
NHAngler, do you know how the stringers/knees are built? I do not, but... if the interior transom first gets a layer of glass before the stringers/knees are laid up against it, then there should be zero transfer of moisture. I would "think" that's the way it's done... but then one would also "think" that a giant gap isn't left underneath the transom cap......... :p
Click to expand...
Be interesting to ask GW what the life expectancy of their hulls were designed for by model year. What is a reasonable "life"?

A friend of mine said: "Fiberglass hull boat can last indefinitely." That is true if built properly and the core materials are protected through the years.
 
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