Grady Transom

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rml2112

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The Gilcoat is starting to peel of my grady transom on my 228, Has anyone ever stripped one down to bare and recoated?
I am thinking of removing it this winter removing all the coating, acid etching, alodine, repainting with awgrip.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
thanks
Bob
 
You can do it no problem. The stripping w/ 80 grit is very dusty and very toxic. Make sure to use a very good respirator not just the N95 type. And do it outside.

Interlux has a good system to get the job done from etch to top coat to antifoul for the bottom half of the bracket.

Good luck with it.
 
rml2112 said:
The Gilcoat is starting to peel of my grady transom on my 228, Has anyone ever stripped one down to bare and recoated?
I am thinking of removing it this winter removing all the coating, acid etching, alodine, repainting with awgrip.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
thanks
Bob
Click to expand...
Its odd that the gellcoat is peeling. You may have a bigger issue, a wet transom and delamination. You need to find out if there is a water issue before you attempt repairs.
 
seasick said:
rml2112 said:
The Gilcoat is starting to peel of my grady transom on my 228, Has anyone ever stripped one down to bare and recoated?
I am thinking of removing it this winter removing all the coating, acid etching, alodine, repainting with awgrip.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
thanks
Bob
Click to expand...
Its odd that the gellcoat is peeling. You may have a bigger issue, a wet transom and delamination. You need to find out if there is a water issue before you attempt repairs.
Click to expand...

That does sound odd. Can you post up pics of peeling gelcoat? I just completed an extensive rebuild of my transom, and used "System 3" coating in area of rebuild. Here is a closeup pic of finish appearance,
gradywhitetransomrebuildday19007.jpg


You can roll and tip this coating, and if done properly, get a completely smooth finish. I just painted it on, and let it level out on its own. Looking at picture, notch area is new System 3 coating, but exterior transom is existing gelcoat. I feathered coating in to it. System 3 is for above water only. Just giving you another alternative.
 
Its on the grady motor bracket itself, which is made of aluminum and is between the boat and the motor.
I will try to post some pics later.
Thanks
 
Its the guy's Gill Bracket not gelcoat that is pealing..
 
If I am seeing what I thinh I am seeing, that is aserious problem. You probably need a completer transom rebuild/replacement.
The vessel is probably not safe to operate
 
If I am seeing what I thinh I am seeing, that is aserious problem. You probably need a completer transom rebuild/replacement.
The vessel is probably not safe to operate
Click to expand...

There's not even a picture of the transom...it's the bracket. There is some type of galvanic problem with the aluminum but no way to tell from these photos about the transom.
 
Customize your zoom to about 25% and you can see the damage.
This needs to be addressed asap.I belive you have anoide problems.
I'm not an expert on this but I would contact someone in the know before futher damage occures.
 
rml2112 said:
The Gilcoat is starting to peel of my grady transom on my 228, Has anyone ever stripped one down to bare and recoated?
I am thinking of removing it this winter removing all the coating, acid etching, alodine, repainting with awgrip.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

From looking at your pics, sounds like your original thread is a good idea. Make sure after the stripping and cleaning to apply proper priming material that will bond bracket and final coating, assuring longevity.
 
If there are no holes bored into bracket from galvanic corrosion, the original powdercoat (not gelcoat) will eventually loose adhesion, peel off and require recoating. A few small patches is all that remains of the original powdercoat on my bracket.

If you a DIYer, you can grind off the entire coating and follow Interlux instructions for bare aluminum painting. I found Pettit top side off white to be a perfect color match, as another member advised.

If you Opt for powdercoat, the bracket has to be removed after the motor is removed and sent out for refinishing, a very costly operation relative to Interluxing.
 
As I scan over the images, it still looks like transom delamination to me. I see one section that looks like the lower hull edge. perhaps this is an engine bracket but the more I look, the more it looks like fiberglass and core. Look at the section of picture just below and to the left of the engine model number tag. That bolt is through the transom and the surface is delamination. There are also cracks on the back side of the transom.

Better (resized) pictures would help.
 
We need better photos. but the only thing I see colored white peeling off is powdercoat. Very common for anything powdercoated or otherwise painted.
 
seasick said:
As I scan over the images, it still looks like transom delamination to me. I see one section that looks like the lower hull edge. perhaps this is an engine bracket but the more I look, the more it looks like fiberglass and core. Look at the section of picture just below and to the left of the engine model number tag. That bolt is through the transom and the surface is delamination. There are also cracks on the back side of the transom.

Better (resized) pictures would help.
Click to expand...

On further review... I think you guys are right. It the bracket peeling, not the transom.
 
RML, if you're doing the aluminum bracket, think about having someone sand blast it....its fast and comes out ready for priming and etching....which you need to do in about the first hour of exposing fresh aluminum to air as it will begin to self oxidize right away. You will not see it, but it will make a difference in the paint sticking long term or not.

you should break up the job into 2 sections, the portion on top of the bracket well and the portion below, the sides and the bottom. After blasting or sanding (good luck), etch it with Interlux's Vinyllux etch/primer.....then follow up with several coats of Interprotect 2000e and then Trilux 33 at and below the waterline as its made specifically for metal. Do the same above the waterline, but use Perfection Paint above the waterline, not Trilux33. Give yourself a couple of inches Trilux above the actual line as this area will be wet most of the time even though it doesn't sit that low.

I did the exact job on my bracket last year...came out great....and the guys at Interlux are very helpful with their product use/specification.
 
Thanks for the replies, I am going to remove it have it blasted, acid etched primed and topcoat.
I will post some pics when I get to that stage
thanks
 
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