took the grady white decal of today to replace with a new ones. it's a 1990 sailfish used a heat gun. well it left the glue on that i couldn't remove. the only thing that came off was the blue lettering. tried goo b gone, interlux 216 and then tried a little gas nothing. the only thing i didn't try was on/off i know this removes everything. any ideas what to use that will work and not harm the boat.
grady white decal removal
- Thread starter fearnofish
- Start date
Collinite compound. A faint outline may remain after compounding but it is so faint as to be almost impossible to see unless you sight up the hull at sun rise or sun set when the light is oblique to the hull. After a few seasons of compounding and waxing the whole outline will disappear.
Collinite hull cleaner no 920 will work. on/off will not, it removes stains, but not glue. Only problem with the collinite is that you will end up cleaning the whole hull because it will be noticeably cleaner where you use it, just a fair warning, but the boat will look great after, just apply a coat of wax and she will look like new. I've used the collinite 3 times after removing boat names that have been on boats up to 12 years, and all were unnoticeable after using it.
thanks gradyfish22 not what i wanted to hear just got done compounding and waxing today few hours into it but i'll go with it.
I replaced my decals and I removed the glue with Brakclean and a rag. Spray it into the rag and apply to the glue. It only removes in the area you want it to.
I replaced my decals a year or two ago on a similar (1989) age. After I removed the decal with a heat gun, the area wasn't flat. I assumed that I had not removed all of the decal, but I had. The gelcoat was actually a little thicker where the decal was and I think the decal had protected the gelcoat from wearing, leaving a raised outline.
The blue trim stripe you can get from the dealer, they should have the Grady White emblems also. I'd go with the newer decal if redoing it, you can also find them on ebay but not sure how good the quality is or if it will match the original color perfectly.
It was a spur of the moment decision when I removed the hull decals from my boat. I had a corner sticking up and when I grabbed it to try and break it off, the whole stripe started coming up and I just kept pulling. I literally got about half way up one side when it finally broke. So, I just pulled the rest off. It came up very nicely with no heat necessary (it was about 85 degrees that day though) and didn't leave hardly any glue/residue. The little bit of sticky that was left came up easily with acetone.
Once done, I too could see the outline. So, I compounded/polished/waxed the entire hull with the Meguiar's 3-part fiberglass/gelcoat restoration kit. 10 hours per side. :cry: :cry: Now, it's perfect.
Stripes peeled and compounding started. See the difference in shine?
One side done.
The topside stickers weren't as easy to get off. With no additional heat, they just kept breaking. Too much heat and they would stretch.
Once done, I too could see the outline. So, I compounded/polished/waxed the entire hull with the Meguiar's 3-part fiberglass/gelcoat restoration kit. 10 hours per side. :cry: :cry: Now, it's perfect.
Stripes peeled and compounding started. See the difference in shine?
One side done.
The topside stickers weren't as easy to get off. With no additional heat, they just kept breaking. Too much heat and they would stretch.