Groco Tank Level Monitor

[fishingFINattic]

My tank level monitor touch pad on my 265 Express stoped working. It is the actually part with buttons that one pushes to pump over board or check the tank level.
Can I purchase just this component? When I search the internet it wants me to by the entire kit, (push button, wiring, sending units, ect)
Thanks
Tim

 

[ameitin]

I had the same problem on my 2005 282 sailfish recently. I had to replace the switch, sensor and motor. It seemed that the motor shorted out and caused the switch to go bad. Check the motor to see if it still works. if not, I would vbite the bullet and switch to another system. in talking with Grady Reps they no longer use Groco system. The motor is in in the tank all the time surronded by "you know what" and gets stuck, shorting the syste. I spent $$ replacing parts for it.

Good Luck.

 

[ahill]

I have the same system. The holding tank sending unit consists of three probes of different length. An electric current passes between them based on the fluid level in the tank. Over time the current erodes the probes causing them to give erroneous readings. Replacement cost of the sender is over $400.! I disconnected the full/alarm lead and pump out on an intuitive basis.
A complete updated replacement monitor and sender is under $3oo.
I've opted for vigilance.

 

[fishingFINattic]

I dont care about the level indicator, that assembly also it what activates the overboard discharge.
Many of my trips are 50+ miles out and I like to pump discharge when I am out that far....
Sound like there is no "Cheap and Easy" replacement fix.
Tim

 

[SilverLining]

Let me take a try at this. My 2000 Sailfish 272 has a GROCO system. The level probe consists of three different length wires with floating float switches on each. The three floats represent Green, Yellow, and Red on the display panel. The panel has a power toggle switch, a pump-out button, and the three lights positioned vertically and a fuse holder. Prior to buying a new panel or pump, try the following:
1. Check fuse( 10 or 20 amp?) A blown fuse usually means that the pump shaft is seized by corrosion, ect.
2. If level indicator lights come on, there is power to the pump.
3. Disconnect pump DC leads and apply 12V from battery or jump battery directly to the pump. If the pump runs, problem is probable switch or wiring.
4. If pump does not run with 12V, remove pump and check that shaft turns freely. If not, place box end wrench on shaft end bolt and move back and forth until smooth. Test pump again with with 12V. I'll bet it operates properly then. I do this work on my work bench, not in the boat.
5. Remember, the overboard pumpout feature does not depend in any way on the float switches or level indications
6. The pumps are very durable and work very well considering the environment the pump lives in.
Hope this helps.

SilverLining

 

[fishingFINattic]

3. Disconnect pump DC leads and apply 12V from battery or jump battery directly to the pump. If the pump runs, problem is probable switch or wiring.

I did this and the pump runs so I am confident it is the switch. I actually removed the switch and by passed it ruling out wiring.

In lue of wiring in a momemtary contacting switch, I was hoping some one knew were to buy just this part.... but it doesnt look promising.
Tim

 

[SilverLining]

Glad to hear that the problem is not the pump. Have you contacted GROCO directly? We use a lot of GROCO pumps and equipment on our tour boats. Have always found their tech service reps(not the sales group) to be very helpful.

If not there, check out NAPA. They can always seem to find parts like rocker switches and wiper blades for my Sailfish.

Good luck!!!

 

[94Sailfish]

SilverLining's pump shaft post

Just a shout out to SilverLining for the post on freeing up the macerator pump shaft. Just finished that procedure on my 94 Sailfish where the pump had never been used and had "frozen" up. A few turns with a wrench on the shaft's bottom bolt and now it spins freely with 12v power.

 

[jehines3]

Mine has been modified to remove the inboard pump and go to an external ($159). Make a blocking plate for the tank to cover the access hole. Use another 1-1/2" tank fitting on top to a 90 degree elbow. You need to use a pick-up tube style. Plumb that to a mascerator that is hooked to the existing pump discharge. My level senders were long gone so no I don't have any and also rely on vigilance. jh

 

[RabbleRouser]

I just did the $400 pump replacement. The rubber boot opened up and flooded. A lot of $$$ for something @5 years old. When GROCO said that the flimsy replacement sensor assembly was $350, I told them to pound X?<*&. Their poor design was the reason for failure. I hadn't had time to do but there are reliable sensor switches for very few $$$. I don't really care when the tank is 1/4 full, but it would be nice to know when your are close to full. At Omega.com which is an engineering company you can get a LVK-150 vertical mounting sensor switch for $22. Or you could get a side mounted switch for $21 (LVH-200). There you could put 2 in if you wanted more levels sensed. I would be able to use the existing wiring to the display panel.
Mike