GW Sailfish Fuel Tanks

[Sinclair]

Guys,

Getting ready to repower the Sailfish. Can anyone recommend a supplier that carries or can fab a set of tanks for the old girl. She a 91 25' Sailfish with twin tanks.


Thanks for the help.

Sinclair

 

[gw204]

Florida Marine Tanks is the name that I seem to hear the most. I'm not sure if they are the original supplier though.

I also saw a place called SP Tanks in The Salty Dog. They're in NJ. www.sptanks.com


I'm not sure if it could be done or not, but I would look into replacing the dual tanks with a big single. Is there some redundancy in dual tanks? Yes. But when you installing brand new I think that removes a lot of the variables that could cause a failure or problem. Just remember to put in all new lines at the same time.

 

[BobP]

What's wrong with existing tanks?

Have they been pulled and inspected?

 

[jimmy's marine service]

Guys,

Getting ready to repower the Sailfish. Can anyone recommend a supplier that carries or can fab a set of tanks for the old girl. She a 91 25' Sailfish with twin tanks.


Thanks for the help.

Sinclair

i use patriot marine for fuel tanks on my customer's boats...his work is excellent,he's coast guard certified...
it's nice to see this,that means,you're doing a repower the "right way"...with a boat the age of your's,not replacing the fuel tanks is really kinda stupid...those tanks are unprotected aluminum,the bilge is very wet,it's a perfect breeding ground for corrosion...
personally,i don't like the big single tank idea,i prefer the 2 tanks...
be prepared to repalce the bulkheads down in the tank area,there's a re more than likley gonna be saturated with water,and showing signs of rotting...be sure to follow the advice i gave in a few threads concerning replacing the fuel tanks...it explains how to properly protect the tank from sea water exposure...
i often hear guys telling how they inspect a tank,just by pulling the deck up and looking at the top of the tank :cry: :cry: the top of the tank will look pretty good,the problem usually lies on the bottom of the tank,this is where the sea water gets trapped in between the tank and the neoprene strip grady used...as a general guide line,aluminum fuel tanks have a life expectancy of approx 10 years,in a sea water environemt-that's for unprotected aluminum tanks.... again,you're making the smart play by replacing the tanks now.....

 

[Sinclair]

Guys,

Thanks for the info. With the repower and the price of new engines. I want to replace all of the electrical sytems along with the gas tanks. My reasoning is that the boat is now going on 17 years. Its proven its worth. I can afford to buy a new boat, however I want to make this one last.

I'm kinda anal when it come to mechanics, & I love this boat. I want her done right. I would rather spend a little more now than to piece meal it together later.

I really want to add Honda 4 strokes but I'm up in the air now with HPDI's and ETEC's. Due to the weight.

I stopped by my dealer today and they showed me a 90 Sailfish with twin Honda 4 strokes, it was top shelf. The coast guard and Navy both here have a contact with Honda and I saw a CG Safe boat w/ 10,000 hrs on a set, and I about dropped. You know these guys are hard on equipment.!!

Again, Thanks for the help. I'll keep you guys informed as I go thru with the new repower.

Sinclair

 

[Sinclair]

BTW,

To add to saga, I'm also replacing the thru-hulls also :shock: :shock:

Sinclair

 

[Grog]

I wouldn't touch the '90 Sailfish with the Honda engines. 600 pounds per engine is too much for that hull design (ETEC's are 425).

Not to put the Honda's down but when you run an engine EVERY day you'll get a lot of hours out of them.

 

[jehines3]

I would see about finding a set of rotomolded plastic tanks. You will probably need to foam them in, but when complete, they won't be back out again due to corrosion. My marlin has two 152 gallon tanks which are probably identical, I think the Sailfish had a 200 and an option aux 52. which will mean you are looking for two different tanks, not just one type. Let me know what you go with and the cost. I'll likely be doing tanks next winter. jh

 

[jimmy's marine service]

scary stuff...

Guys,

Thanks for the info. With the repower and the price of new engines. I want to replace all of the electrical sytems along with the gas tanks. My reasoning is that the boat is now going on 17 years. Its proven its worth. I can afford to buy a new boat, however I want to make this one last.

I'm kinda anal when it come to mechanics, & I love this boat. I want her done right. I would rather spend a little more now than to piece meal it together later.

I really want to add Honda 4 strokes but I'm up in the air now with HPDI's and ETEC's. Due to the weight.

I stopped by my dealer today and they showed me a 90 Sailfish with twin Honda 4 strokes, it was top shelf. The coast guard and Navy both here have a contact with Honda and I saw a CG Safe boat w/ 10,000 hrs on a set, and I about dropped. You know these guys are hard on equipment.!!

Again, Thanks for the help. I'll keep you guys informed as I go thru with the new repower.

Sinclair

search my posts,you will see pics of a trophy pro that was repowered with 200hp honda engines...the boat is unsafe at any point in time...the boat was never designed to have that much weight hung off the transom...and NO,a floatation bracket will not help the situation,the boat is not designed to support that kind of weight !!!

 

[gw204]

Jimmy, what is it about the big single tank you don't like?

 

[BobP]

If you are someone operating on a budget i.e. who writes the checks, if the tanks don't need replacement, why bother? Of course we all replace perfectly servicable items. I'll never replace my car's gas tank for no good reason. Gas tanks don't wear out. Tanks do corrode, both car and boat.

If you pull the tanks out of the boat and inspect them fully, you will know what to do. Also pull the level sensors and look inside, flip them over drain all the fluid out. Suggest at the minimum new sensors and hoses.

When I pulled my tanks, there were signs of galvanic corrosion under a few of those rubber strips, but minor in nature, cleaned them out and primed those areas, and fully seal caulked the neoprene strips back in their original positions, not like Grady did, they just layed them on the subfloor.

Our Gradys are built with removable tank covers for a very good reason.

1992 tanks: 15 yrs old tanks, good for another 15.

For the several grand instead, look at those new touch screen Garmins !!
If however you wait until the tanks leak from corrosion, just hope it's not in the prime of the short season like we have up here.

This advise is extended only to those looking for no cost / low cost advice for older Gradys, no one else. It is also directed at DYIs who can work safely around fuel cells and know what not how not to blow the place up.

Be safe!

 

[jimmy's marine service]

hmmmmm....

If you are someone operating on a budget i.e. who writes the checks, if the tanks don't need replacement, why bother? Of course we all replace perfectly servicable items. I'll never replace my car's gas tank for no good reason. Gas tanks don't wear out. Tanks do corrode, both car and boat.

If you pull the tanks out of the boat and inspect them fully, you will know what to do. Also pull the level sensors and look inside, flip them over drain all the fluid out. Suggest at the minimum new sensors and hoses.

When I pulled my tanks, there were signs of galvanic corrosion under a few of those rubber strips, but minor in nature, cleaned them out and primed those areas, and fully seal caulked the neoprene strips back in their original positions, not like Grady did, they just layed them on the subfloor.

Our Gradys are built with removable tank covers for a very good reason.

1992 tanks: 15 yrs old tanks, good for another 15.

For the several grand instead, look at those new touch screen Garmins !!
If however you wait until the tanks leak from corrosion, just hope it's not in the prime of the short season like we have up here.

This advise is extended only to those looking for no cost / low cost advice for older Gradys, no one else. It is also directed at DYIs who can work safely around fuel cells and know what not how not to blow the place up.

Be safe!

pulling a tank and seeing corrosion without replacing that tank is asking for trouble...if it's corroded,it lost strength in that area,common sense here,the aluminum lost it's mass in that section,it has a weak spot...think about all that weight lying on that weak spot,gas weighs approx 6lbs per gallon...think about the force when the boat slams down a wave,think about the enertia involved...not good huh ?? having a weak spot in a tank,on the bottom is asking for trouble...would you trust your life to that ??? when i see guys trying to repair a fuel tank,i get scared !!! i've read where guys have fiberglassed tanks that were leaking-i kid you not !!!! if you can't afford to play the game safely,i suggest you take up a cheaper hobby... :wink:

 

[tuxedospike]

G/W repower...Hondas?

I currently own three Hondas...a 90 and twin 130's, and if I could have talked G/W into equiping my '06 Marlin with Hondas I would have owned five. To be fair, the F250 Yamahas are also trouble free. I own three Hondas for one simple reason...they work! The second reason is that the factory backs them to the hilt! I guess one of the replies you've gotten thinks that you're going to hang two 225's off the transom (i.e.600 lbs) when I would suggest twin 150's @ aprox 465 lbs. apiece. My son drives a 1991 Hydra Sports 23' Walkaround we repowered with Honda 130's in 2000...they went 485 lbs. apiece...trouble...None! The drawbacks...Having to listen to conversations coming from the transom area at full throttle. Oh,,,and never wanting to run anything but Hondas!

 

[Sinclair]

Guys,

Here's the exact weight.

Honda 200 H.P = 588lbs x 2 = 1,176lbs.

Evinrude ETEC H.P = 430lbs x 2 = 860lbs

The difference is 360lbs. I have spoke with Grady all day about this and they assure me that putting the addtional weight isnt wise. I'm not really wanting to cause a safety issue, so I'm bound to stick with the 2 Strokes.

Thanks for all of your help.

BTW, here's the number from the company that made the tanks for Grady. Replacement cost is $900.00 for both tanks. The tanks are CG certified as well.

(850) 584-6898

 

[CaptKennyW]

Im pretty sure you have the same tanks as me. This guys does excellent work and is less than Fl marine tanks by a few hundred dollard, plus he is local!

United Sheet Metal
1023 Virginia Dr
Portsmouth Va 23707
757-398-9375

He does good work. He is not a tank shop but does all sorts of work for the Navy, USCG, Merchant Ships, tugs, and the local shipyards as well as land based stuff.

 

[Sinclair]

Capt. Kenny,

Thanks for the info. Do you happen to know if they are USCG Certified??

Thanks, Sinclair

 

[BobP]

On corrosion and aluminum tanks -

There's a big distinction between corrosion of a cosmetic only nature and corrosion of a structural nature, I'm surprised you are not aware of this and how to make the distinction.

Therefore, I'll spend more time informing the members how to make the distinction and avoid such costly replacements with simple preventive maintenance practices, that I have yet to read about on this site from others, namely:

To: INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM REGULARLY. This can be found on several different labels and in instruction manuals. Is the gas tank part of the fuel system ?

More to come in future posts.

Once again, I'll try to make it clearer this time - this advise is directed only at DYIs & those who write the checks and want to avoid check writing for costly replacements on older Gradys.

 

[Sinclair]

Bob,

I know how to determine the difference between structural failure and cosmetic corrosion.

I have not had the opportunity to pull and inspect the tanks either. Once I have, I will make a decision whether the tanks need replaced. 17 years in a harsh saltwater enviroment is distructive to marine systems including fuel systems. All I was asking for was information from board members in tank suppliers, in case I need to replace them.

I'll keep everyone informed as I go thru the process.

Thanks, Sinclair

 

[jimmy's marine service]

let's not get into this....

On corrosion and aluminum tanks -

There's a big distinction between corrosion of a cosmetic only nature and corrosion of a structural nature, I'm surprised you are not aware of this and how to make the distinction.

Therefore, I'll spend more time informing the members how to make the distinction and avoid such costly replacements with simple preventive maintenance practices, that I have yet to read about on this site from others, namely:

To: INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM REGULARLY. This can be found on several different labels and in instruction manuals. Is the gas tank part of the fuel system ?

More to come in future posts.

Once again, I'll try to make it clearer this time - this advise is directed only at DYIs & those who write the checks and want to avoid check writing for costly replacements on older Gradys.

well...
aluminum corodes in sea water,right ?? the aluminum starts out as a set thickness,right ??? if corrosion pitting is found on that surface,the thickenss has been reduced,right ??? therefore,that area with corrosion pitting on it has been weakened,right??? common sense....
if i inspect a tank,and that tank has areas of corrosion pitting,that tank is gonna be replaced....why ??? because it's weakened....
we're all entitled to our own opinions,however,from a saftey point of view,i take absolutley no chances with corrosion on a fuel system...same as i will not install a fuel tank without a "build sticker"...if you believe what you're doing is ok,then,by all means,have at it !!
i've replaced quite a few grady fuel systems,from 19's to 25's....in EVERY case,the tank was in the area of ten years old....and in every case,the tanks appeared to be in good shape on the top,the problem was on the bottom...
i don't try to push unneeded replacements,nor do i force the issue,i go by exactly what i've experienced...i certainly don't force someone to "write the check" :roll: ...
i recently purchased a 25 black fin,fishermen model,repowered with a cummins diesel in 1997...the fuel tanks were replaced at the same time the boat was repowered...guess what ??? i'm gonna cut the deck up,ya wanna know why ??? to pull the tanks and have replacements made...again,ya wanna know why ??? the tanks are 10yrs old,they're not epoxy coated and i don't trust them...it's called caring about saftey and potential problems...the boat holds 108 total fuel in 2 tanks,i don't wanna have a bilge full of diesel fuel....i practice what i preach,i go outta my way to avoid a bad situation...i treat customer's boats like it was my own,even better than my own... :wink:

 

[BobP]

Fine, my "job" is done on this post.

Your tank was designed to withstand a 4 psig pressure test without sustaining permanent deformation, So, surface oxidation or minute area partial depth pits means nothing. Just make sure you arrest the corrosion from extending further and perforating the 1/8 in. thickness, then it's "write the check" time. Galvanic corrosion (pits) is the worst - seal it from moisture.

Same advise applies to our outboard engines and Grady drives, made of the very same materials as our gas tanks - which have a more difficult time being partially underwater all the time if moored.

Most people don't know the metals making up our outboards (outdrives too on I/Os) are primarily aluminum alloys, just like the tanks and drives.

Severe galvanic corrosion on lower units has resulted in gear box leaks with replacement mandatory. Another member reported his engine transom brackets eat away calling for replacement - potentially a massive structural failure in the works.