Hardtop Mounted Outriggers

[domsmith]

I too agree that plastic pipe would definitely work good for it and you must give it a try. There are many benefits of doing it.
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Have a look at cable tie tools | square plastic tube .

 

[ayacht]

I too agree that plastic pipe would definitely work good for it and you must give it a try. There are many benefits of doing it.
___________________
Have a look at cable tie tools | square plastic tube .

I ended up going the epoxy route. We dug out a bunch of the foam and filled the void with an epoxy putty.

With the plates I fabricated bolted/glued to the hardtop and then the epoxy my outriggers are solid. Now I look at every mounting job I see and have yet to find one other than welded that looks and feels as solid.

 

[Harpoon]

I mounted a pair of XS riggers on a hard top a few years back. I reinforced the roof with 1/4" by 8" aluminum band across the top and mounted the riggers through it. It was solid as a rock.

 

[fitzman]

ayacht, I realize that this is old thread, but I was really interested in the outrigger brackets that you designed and had fabricated for your hardtop. I think that they look great and really are a functional and practical alternative to welding. I am looking to do the exact same thing on my new to me 04 Islander 270. By any chance would, would you still have any drawings, dimensions or details that I could use As template to fabricate a set of these brackets? Please let me know. Many thanks. Jim

 

[ayacht]

ayacht, I realize that this is old thread, but I was really interested in the outrigger brackets that you designed and had fabricated for your hardtop. I think that they look great and really are a functional and practical alternative to welding. I am looking to do the exact same thing on my new to me 04 Islander 270. By any chance would, would you still have any drawings, dimensions or details that I could use As template to fabricate a set of these brackets? Please let me know. Many thanks. Jim

I do not have anything that would help for a template. It would not help even on the same model because things can be off a bit. Also it is easy to template and build it. The Outriggers holes were done and all that mocked up dry first. Then I built the plate. All I used was a piece of alum tube of similar diameter cut a little less than half so it fits nicely on the piping. Then alum flat plate for hardtop. Put them where they need to be and mock it up for welding and mark holes for rigger plus rigger bolts and hardtop bolts. You will see from the pipe to the flat plate we added a couple of gussets to add stability to the welded part. My alum was not anodized so I powder coated the part to match. It has been installed for 10 years and I run my riggers in any see and out no issues.

Epoxy coring your hardtop is a huge part of doing this or any penetration on your hardtop correctly. You do the hole and then take out the core material either balsa wood or coosa foam. Then you fill the area between the fiberglass layers with epoxy. I use the six-ten epoxy from west marine in the tube. For smaller bolt holes where you cannot get in and get the material out you drill them a size or 2 bigger and fill the entire hole then when dry redrill to the exact bolt size you need. It sounds like a pain and is more time consuming but very much worth it. I did shot gun rod holders in the gunnel this year and even with the coring of marine plywood I did this process. Doubt the factory ones are done this way. This is a detailed article https://marinehowto.com/sealing-deck-penetrations-to-prevent-core-rot/

 

[fitzman]

Many thanks for the follow up and information. Much appreciate.

 

[ehaeg25]

Hi,
I installed them without the welds. About 3 years ago. No issues to date.
GW recommends the brackets that are welded to the hardtop frame and does this if they are ordered from the factory.

It is a lot of work if you decide to do this. You need to remove the top and any associated electronics, remove any wiring in the pipes to the hardtop and then do the welding.

I ended up rationalizing that I would do it without the welded brackets and if the top cracked, then I would replace it and weld them in at that time. As stated it worked out fine to this point.

Some ideas
- I used Taco GS270s. They leverage a four bolt mount pattern around the center thru hole. I also used the wedges to compensate for the hardtop rolloff, not really needed, but does ensure the outriggers are vertical. There are 3 different angle plates sold as I recall. Can't be sure, but I thought it was the seven degree ones that I used. These are hard plastic pieces that go between the hardtop top and the outrigger base.
- Use a backing plate on the other side. Taco sold these as well.
- Use tube spacers. These are hard plastic tubes that go in the 4 mounting holes and the bolts go thru them. This gives you added protection against the hardtop being damaged when the mounting bolts are tightened.
- Seal everything with 4200. The center hole edges, the mounting hole edges, the side of the tube spacers that meet the hardtop, the wedge plate surface and under the outrigger base. I over did this to ensure there was no way water could get into the hardtop coring (which is balsa).
- Tighten snug and then use a crossing pattern (on the diagnol) to tighten down.
- Finally, consider the telescoping poles. These collapse down and are out of the way when not in use or if you have bridges or other overhead concerns.

The toughest part is drilling the first hole. Once you do this, your committed and the job goes fast.

Good luck.

Hi there, I’m currently tackling this project on a new to me 2004 Journey 258. I went with the lees sidewinders. I have the backing plates and am planning to go ahead without the weld. The tube spacer idea is excellent. Helps the sandwich between the plates without letting the hardtop get crushed when you tighten. I’m trying to look them up and can’t find anything. What exactly are these “tube spacers” called? Are they metal or plastic and how long do they need to be? Where would I order them? Appreciate any input and insight. Thanks!

 

[Hookup1]

The hardtop is cored and may crush when you tighten the bolts down. The spacers should be a little less than the hardtop thickness. Use plastic spacers if you ever expect to take the bolts out - aluminum will seize up - stainless maybe. McMaster Carr. This is no guarantee the riggers won't crack your hardtop if GW didn't reinforce it.

Hardtop under a lot of stress with the riggers extended. I reinforced my hardtop with Coosa board overlapping the tower frame. Welded aluminum plates to the tower to support rigger bases. Refinished both.

 

[brdawg2001]

Looks great!! Still do not understand collapsible. I have original rupp top guns with 18 foot fixed poles. I use the povermo method to manage halyard tension so never have to figure out keeping that halyards organized when collapsed ..I am ready to fish by simply turning the riggers....

 

[SeanC]

I had some brackets made to go around the hardtop tubing but a pair of stainless steel u-bolts would do the job.

 

[Hookup1]

I use a cam cleat under the gunnel to tension halyards. Haylard has a clip on it that attached to cam cleat or to short bungee cord to stow them up top. I run equal length short/long halyard - better geometry and stows better. Only advantage to collapsible rigger is ability to stow in cabin.