Does anyone know the actual thickness of the Grady hardtops? edges vs. the raised section? I have a 2004 Gulfstream and am looking to add railings up there. Trying to figure out what type of hardware I should use, bolt through or screw into the core if it's thick enough. thanks in advance for the info.
Hardtop Thickness
- Thread starter phishead
- Start date
I would venture to say that you should through-bolt any handrails, regardless of the thickness of the laminated top. Screws might be OK for light-weight or low-load installations, but handrails, antenna mounts, etc. do not meet that description.
JMHO,
Brian
JMHO,
Brian
Thanks.
I just got the specs from Grady in case anyone else is interested.
The Hardtop on your '04 Gulfstream is between 3/4" and 7/8" thick.
I just got the specs from Grady in case anyone else is interested.
The Hardtop on your '04 Gulfstream is between 3/4" and 7/8" thick.
Fishtales
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 8,303
- Reaction score
- 1,368
- Points
- 113
The hardtops are not as strong as you may suspect. They are balsa cored with glass on either side.
I would not screw into it. Thru bolt and if you can use backing plates to distribute the mounting force.
I would not screw into it. Thru bolt and if you can use backing plates to distribute the mounting force.
Well, another bit regarding balsa cores and anything that might have a heavy load.
In addition to through-bolting, and using a backing plate, you might need to use compression sleeves, or spacers, around the bolts to prevent overcompression (i.e. crushing) of the top itself. These should be cut to a length just a bit less than the thickness of the top.
I did this when I mounted the Taco GrandSlams on our custom hardtop.
Brian
In addition to through-bolting, and using a backing plate, you might need to use compression sleeves, or spacers, around the bolts to prevent overcompression (i.e. crushing) of the top itself. These should be cut to a length just a bit less than the thickness of the top.
I did this when I mounted the Taco GrandSlams on our custom hardtop.
Brian
phishead said:
All you can see on our installation is the welded-in plates on the underside, placed there by the fabricator, and the Taco mounts on top of the hardtop. You can't see the compression spacers that I inserted during assembly.
Are you looking for underside and topside photos? If so, PM me an email address and I will send you some pics. If I can't find them readily, I'll stop by the boat tomorrow and take them with my Evo.
Brian
Fishtales
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 8,303
- Reaction score
- 1,368
- Points
- 113
I agree with Brian. I used the "tube spacers" on my taco outrigger mounts, top wedge plates and bottom backing plates. I didn't weld the underside backing plates as I've seen many installations and my dealer does it all the time without provided the tube spacers and top/bottom plates are used. 3 years now - no issues.
Welding is the best if you want to take everything apart (wires to hardtop and any electronics out, removal of hardtop itself). Total PIA. I figured for all that work, screw it. Install without welding and if it failed, all I'm out is the cost of the top.
I have some pics in the gallery under marlin.
Welding is the best if you want to take everything apart (wires to hardtop and any electronics out, removal of hardtop itself). Total PIA. I figured for all that work, screw it. Install without welding and if it failed, all I'm out is the cost of the top.
I have some pics in the gallery under marlin.
Fishtales said:
Oh, I agree completely - 100+% - with regard to disassembly of the hard top. We bought our Islander new in 2002 with a soft top, and had the hard top fabricated locally about six months later. During the fabrication they asked if I wanted pre-drilled pads for Taco outriggers welded to the frame - before the top was mounted or any wires run. When they said $50 I jumped on it, even though I had no plans for outriggers at that moment. Installed them a few yuears later, when we readied the boat for offshore fishing.
Brian
While we are on hardtops, I have a 228G with the bimini. It is fine except when I want the extra rod holders that typically are welded to the back side of the hardtop. After getting several prices and considering the extra weight, I have decided against this. I get wonderful gas mileage on a 200 HPDI Yamaha and don't want to screw it up.
I saw a pic recently somewhere of a GW with a bimini and a radar arch. This might satisfy the rod holder need and provide a place to hang on to while underway and standing.
Anyone have this setup? How does it work and does anyone have any pics? I might also ask about the cost. The extra weight of an arch should not impact the performance to any great degree.
I saw a pic recently somewhere of a GW with a bimini and a radar arch. This might satisfy the rod holder need and provide a place to hang on to while underway and standing.
Anyone have this setup? How does it work and does anyone have any pics? I might also ask about the cost. The extra weight of an arch should not impact the performance to any great degree.